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My First Paint Job

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by justnicholas, Jul 1, 2010.

  1. ponchopowered
    Joined: May 27, 2010
    Posts: 438

    ponchopowered
    Member

    great looking paint job deffently not bad for a first time
     
  2. garth slater
    Joined: Apr 17, 2008
    Posts: 263

    garth slater
    Member
    from Melbourne

    yep wait a few weeks for colour sand, are you going to clear it? I assume not if that is the case, I just used 1500-1800 grit paper and very carefully wet sanded my last single stage acrylic paint job, it looked a little glossier felt smoother and made a cheap paint job look even better.
     
  3. GizmoJoe
    Joined: Jul 18, 2007
    Posts: 1,297

    GizmoJoe
    Member

    Excellent! Congratulations.
    Since you did such a great job getting input from people, and applying it.. you should do the same for color sanding. It is an art, just like painting.
    But just like painting... you can do it.
    I'll let the pros tell you but one of the worst things is over-sanding edges and burning when buffing. SO easy to do.

    You should be very proud of your work.
     
  4. uc4me
    Joined: Feb 3, 2006
    Posts: 516

    uc4me
    Member

    Looks WAYYYY better than my first paint job...but then again we used brushes and rustoleum
     
  5. Ob1
    Joined: Jan 21, 2010
    Posts: 411

    Ob1
    Member

    I like to start wet sanding with 1000 grit, staying to the center areas and away from sharp body lines and corners. Remember that compounds are generally meant for 1200 grit or higher, so dont 1000 grit sand where your buffer wont go.

    After a quick shot at the main expanses with 1000 grit to knock down any "big stuff", go back over the area and expand to some of those areas you avoided with 1000, using 1500.

    Use a water hose turned down real low, dont let the sanding scum dry {rinse as you go}, wrap the brass end of the hose with masking tape or cut it off.

    Most importantly, remember that the compound and polish are abrasives too. You dont have to get every last nib down flat with the wet sanding, just down low enough that the compound/polishing will finish the job. I like to hit the hand work first, then pick up the buffer
     
  6. Gabriel Howard
    Joined: Jan 2, 2009
    Posts: 264

    Gabriel Howard
    Member
    from OKC
    1. Okie Hambers

  7. BlueOvalCertified
    Joined: Aug 6, 2009
    Posts: 99

    BlueOvalCertified
    Member
    from Minnesota

    Wow......I have mechanically rebuilt many vehicles for myself and others, It's what I am trained in, never thought I could paint a vehicle???? You have given me the inspiration to think about it! Great Job!
     
  8. ken1939
    Joined: Jul 5, 2008
    Posts: 1,558

    ken1939

    That looks fantastic!

    Good advice on the waiting period. I waited a month before I color sanded mine. Also, let it set in the sun to UV Cure.

    Color sanding is easy, but take your time on this stage.

    I use the 3M family of products.

    To remove the orange peel, I used 1000, 1500 then 2000 grit sandpaper with one of those soft blocks to sand with. I wetsanded with mild soapy water. You can tell when the peel is low, if you rinse the area you are sanding, the wipe it dry you can see how the paint is flat. Normally the orange peel will show when its still there. Again, not knowing how much paint you applied, be careful on corners and edged on this step. Shiny orange peel is better than shiny sand through. Sand in one direction if you can, no circles or angles.

    To remove the sanding scratches I used the following methods:

    3M Rubbing compount and a yellow wool bonnet on an electric hand buffer. Its hard to say when to stop, but I try to get a uniform look (not a real shine at this point). You can either apply it to the car then buff, to the bonnet then buff. I prefer to slop some on the car, then rub the buffing pad into it then hit the electric to use the buffer as designed.
    Dont use a ton. Its a feel thing as to how much at times.

    You may see some white on the buffing pads, thats ok. Single stage paint is like that. My car was black so I had some black on my buffing pads.

    then I go to:

    3M Fine Cut compound and a white wool bonnet. This time work toward a better shine, applying what you need to and going over it a few times to get a shine.

    then I go to my favorite:

    3M Dark Swirl Remover with a black foam pad. This will work on any color paint, light or dark, but really takes the buffing scratches out the best and gives you a real high gloss shine. You can also use this by hand for small touch up, or to go over a panel, like waxing a car, if you like.

    I will at times use the 3M show shine as the last step, but it depends on how well I think the car came out. Sometimes I will use the foam pad with it, and sometimes I just apply it by hand. Its kinda runny.


    Go slowly and take your time, dont do it in the direct hot sun and you should be ok.
     
  9. Jax2A
    Joined: Apr 14, 2009
    Posts: 352

    Jax2A
    Member

    Looks way better than the paint job I did when I was 16 and I had two adults helping me (of course they were using my car as a guinnea pig before painting their own projects). But follow the advice you got on color sanding, I hit mine too soon.

    Regardless you already have something there to be proud of, nice work!

    And regarding the pinstriping.... why not get a brush and learn it yourself? You've already shown the patience to learn one skill, why not another?
     
  10. Fordguy321
    Joined: Oct 16, 2009
    Posts: 422

    Fordguy321
    Member
    from Arizona

    nice! i have friends that use the HB gun. they say there one time use. no matter how clean u getem. second job they dont spray like the first job.
    Your job looks good from here !
     
  11. justnicholas
    Joined: Oct 7, 2009
    Posts: 137

    justnicholas
    Member

    The paint job is good, but not perfect. The pictures do not show the orange peel and where there was some stuff I could have spent more time doing the body work but I am still very proud.

    Thanks for all the color sanding tips. I am a little nervous I did about 3 coats of paint on the car and figure I will leave it sit a month before I color sand it, maybe a bit longer. I will follow all the instructions you guys are giving me. I really don't wanna take the paint off of a corner on accident or something, but I will give it a shot.

    As to pinstriping, I can't draw a straight line for my life so I don't wanna risk that haha.

    I appreciate all the nice comments. This site helped prepare me more than anyone would ever imagine. I must have read 50 paint threads.
     
  12. SlowandLow63
    Joined: Sep 18, 2004
    Posts: 5,953

    SlowandLow63
    Member
    from Central NJ

  13. Deadbird
    Joined: Jul 28, 2005
    Posts: 1,117

    Deadbird
    Member

    Nice work! Cool truck.
     
  14. claymore
    Joined: Feb 21, 2009
    Posts: 896

    claymore
    BANNED

    Looks pretty darn good for a first job. Better watch out now your neighbors will be pestering you to do their cars. Lots of edges on your car watch out when color sanding near them. Like others have said better to stay away from the edges when sanding and maybe have not quite perfect paint which is way better than no paint at all.
     
  15. Johnnyzoom
    Joined: Jun 23, 2006
    Posts: 319

    Johnnyzoom
    Member
    from Florida

    Great job, more pics as you go please.
     

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