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Projects My first crack at a traditional hot rod

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Logan LeMaster, Aug 13, 2020.

  1. lodaddyo
    Joined: May 5, 2002
    Posts: 1,202

    lodaddyo
    Member

  2. 282doorUK
    Joined: Mar 6, 2015
    Posts: 95

    282doorUK

    Looking forward watching your build Logan, learned a few things along the way already!
     
    Logan LeMaster likes this.
  3. Well I hope there good things, but hey to be honest a bad example is still an example lol!


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  4. 48fordnut
    Joined: Nov 4, 2005
    Posts: 3,961

    48fordnut
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Have been looking for this type of puller. Thanks for the pic and info. Great build you are starting on.
     
  5. 282doorUK
    Joined: Mar 6, 2015
    Posts: 95

    282doorUK

    All good things so far :)
     
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  6. Ok guys got the other backing plate and hub removed from the donor rear end. Going to clean up the mating surfaces and bolt them together! Did lose a piece of hard ware to the hot wrench lol! IMG_5019.JPG IMG_5016.JPG


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  7. wheeldog57
    Joined: Dec 6, 2013
    Posts: 1,968

    wheeldog57
    Member

    If you don't have another square bolt you can use a hex bolt. I think it's 1/2" fine thread.
     
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  8. ironfly28
    Joined: Dec 22, 2003
    Posts: 967

    ironfly28
    Member
    from Orange, CA

    Did you spin those backing plates around after you took that picture? Or were they on there sideways? It's not fair to mess with people's heads man.
     
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  9. Did I mention I’m new at this! lol IMG_5027.JPG


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  10. rusty valley
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 2,446

    rusty valley
    Member

    i have plenty of those brake bolts, if you cant find one local, give me a shout.
     
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  11. Ok thank you very much!.


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  12. cpldale
    Joined: Aug 17, 2006
    Posts: 329

    cpldale
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Naples, FL

    Looks like you're off to a great start. I have used the Vintage Precision hub puller for years. It is OUTSTANDING!
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  13. Logan, sorry I missed your question on my set up. To start out with some info about my choices. I have built Z'd and kicked frames before. My negative issue with this system is all the work it takes to build floors. Second is you loose a ton of trunk space, That's a Blister in my book. With no kick my floor is totally flat front to back, Life just got a lot easier. I like that part. My rear Axle is any 35 up V-8 unit and as you see the spring is behind and notice the front Axle is a 39 with spring ahead of axle. This lowers things a ton (I don't remember exact numbers). My wheelbase is totally Stock to Model A. Notice in the Exploded photo of the chassis there are 4 Frame rail sections. When I tied everything together I lengthened the rails at the joint enough to move both front and back crossmembers enough to make up the spring differences. It's just Math and planning ahead, at loaded ride height I have 3" space between bottom of frame rail and top of each Axle. One more Bonus of doing this treatment is it gives me something like 6 more inches of motor compartment (firewall to Rad). That's a huge advantage. Plus I have Frame Horns, something to me needs to be there for my end results.
     
  14. I read the how to build a traditional ford hot rod book and contemplated kicking the rear up but I agree it sure looks like more work and loss of space, if my build comes down to getting the engine compartment set up correct with a mechanical fan you can be sure I will choose to lengthen the frame. I dig your strategy!


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    Pist-n-Broke likes this.
  15. Logan, some things to remember while building a project and often seems to get lost. Your not just working on parts, your trying to build something you'll like the looks of and enjoy being in going down the road. Any How to Build it book means your letting someone else give you Rules to follow. I'll tell you right now "There are NO rules"! What is right for one person isn't going to work across the board. That's why there are so many different ways to get the end result. No discredit to a persons point of view but you still gotta like what you end up with. It also needs to work well. Bottom line is to think for yourself. You say maybe lengthen the frame like I did, Kool but it may not give you the look you want. I hate Electric Fans in general and agree with your mission to run a manual fan. To do that on an early Rod I've seen several jobs turn a Hot Rod into what looks like Pinocchio, please don't do that. For me a well done car will look better from 20 feet away than it does standing right next to it. Next is you need to feel comfortable sitting in it, not jammed up with all the Kool Guy pieces in it. Unless your driving range is about 20 miles your going to need extra space. Using up the back seat or trunk space with Frame stuff wipes that out. Your also going to need a place for the Batt and a good Gas Tank among other things. Think it through front to back prior to getting there. That little space under the back seat cushion could be priceless. Go look at lots of Hot Rods and your going to fine a lot have sacrifices done just to get it done. It don't have to be that way. Remember "No Rules" and Think. Don't fall into the Me Too bunch or the Visa Card deals.
     
  16. Had a decent evening got some cleaning done on the backing plates. Enjoyed a couple cold refreshments! Ordered some Eastwood rust converter and rust encapsulate as well as a satin chassis black paint to dress them up a bit. I hope satin isn’t to shiny! Started getting a list ready of the brake hardware I need shoes etc. I have not really looked at the drums to much yet, there next on my to-do list. IMG_5040.JPG


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  17. Jrs50
    Joined: Jun 4, 2019
    Posts: 195

    Jrs50
    Member

    I noticed this build runs better with IPA!
     
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  18. It never hurts a guy to enjoy a refreshment after doing a little work.
     
    Baumi likes this.
  19. Good work... looks like you're enjoying the process, planning and implementation. As for the rust convertor, try the citric acid bath. There are a number of thread on here about it. It's cheap and amazingly effective. Keep up the good work.
     
    Logan LeMaster likes this.
  20. Thank you! I’m gonna do a search on the citric acid right now!


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  21. IMG_4917.JPG Ok guys, I have another dumb question. I am wanting to start to clean up and paint the drums I removed the keeper ring, what is the best way to remove the bearing? Thanks in advance!!!!


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  22. lodaddyo
    Joined: May 5, 2002
    Posts: 1,202

    lodaddyo
    Member

    Pull that seal out and the bearing just slides out
     
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  23. ironfly28
    Joined: Dec 22, 2003
    Posts: 967

    ironfly28
    Member
    from Orange, CA

    I've used Muriatic acid in the past. Extremely effective but do your homework it's very caustic.
     
    Logan LeMaster likes this.
  24. rusty valley
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 2,446

    rusty valley
    Member

    drop the drum on the floor from about a foot...seal and bearing fall out
     
    48fordnut and Logan LeMaster like this.
  25. Thank you!


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  26. Now that you have that snap ring out do yourself a favor so you don't have such a time removing it next time. Take your dremel tool and make a pair of small notches on the inside edge about 3/8" from each tip so you can use a standard pair of snap ring pliers to remove it a little easier.
     
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  27. Nice! I would assume a guy can replace what he needs to from somewhere like Macs auto parts. I want to blast these drums before I paint them.


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  28. Surprisingly they were not that bad to remove! I think your trick sounds like the ticket though!!


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    Pist-n-Broke likes this.

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