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Projects My first crack at a traditional hot rod

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Logan LeMaster, Aug 13, 2020.

  1. wheeldog57
    Joined: Dec 6, 2013
    Posts: 1,988

    wheeldog57
    Member

    MMMMMMMMM. Lagunitas
     
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  2. Doug Hines
    Joined: Jan 9, 2019
    Posts: 276

    Doug Hines

    Logan: I bought what looks like that same puller and if I remember correctly there was some kind of limit on the amount of torque the manufacturer wanted me to put on it given in ft-lbs. It seemed really low, given the size and quality of that bolt thread used in the puller? Did you see anything like that one the one you bought? Did you have to exceed the torque value they suggest? Just curious, because I sure went a lot higher on torque and had no problems getting the hubs to come off. Really good tool.
     
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  3. 392
    Joined: Feb 27, 2007
    Posts: 1,206

    392
    Member

    I like the route your taking. And I’ll admit I’ve never heard of your town so had to google.
     
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  4. Doug I called vintage precision when I ordered the puller, the guy said torque it to a 125ft/lbs, with that said I didn’t even use a torque wrench. This first set came off real easy. I guess I should say I broke a 3 jaw puller trying to get the first one off and bought this puller because of that. This thing pulled them off super easy like no problem.


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  5. Thanks, this is my first build and I’m learning a lot so far. It’s great to have all the knowledge floating around here to rely on.


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  6. The only way to go!


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  7. Ok guys, I have a quick question. Do these surfaces look ok? I’m not planning to tear the banjo completely apart and go through it. It feels tight and the tapered axle shafts and keys look good to me. IMG_4943.JPG IMG_4944.JPG


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  8. trucker1
    Joined: Sep 6, 2011
    Posts: 76

    trucker1
    Member

    I've heard when they are really worn they get a flat spot on the bottom side of the sleeve. Nice project you have there. If you need to re-build that tranny, get the book from Mac Van Pelt. He's here on the HAMB. Other suppliers carry it as well. It's well worth the money. Glynn.
     
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  9. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 3,070

    dumprat
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from b.c.

    You do realize the spring hangers on that rear are on the wishbones?

    Your bearing surface looks ok but the seal diameter is rusty. Polish the crap out of that area and run a felt seal and grease shield. It will be fine.
     
  10. Thanks, it feels like build up on the surface I haven’t tried to remove it yet. Probably use a little scotch-brite on it. The trans I have will definitely need gone thru, so I will check into that book for sure.


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  11. My plan is to convert this 35’ rear to a spring over instead of spring behind. I’ve been looking at the spring hangers from Old Yankee Speed co. I will be the first to admit I’m just learning here as I go.

    I’m gonna try some scotch-brite on that seal surface tonight. Thanks for looking and the advice!

    61695152262__1538F6AF-8FA9-4090-A2FD-34170450E94E.JPG


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    Last edited: Aug 20, 2020
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  12. chryslerfan55 and lodaddyo like this.
  13. Small amount of pitting/scaring. I would assume it’s good to run it. Or should I polish it some?? IMG_4989.JPG


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  14. lodaddyo
    Joined: May 5, 2002
    Posts: 1,202

    lodaddyo
    Member

    Looks pretty good to me. I would get some lapping compound and lap your drums to the shafts
     
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  15. I think tomorrow I will clean up the inside of the drums and take a look at those surfaces. I would assume a guy could use some clover lapping compound and slowly work the two together to get a nice seat??. Tried to see if there was a thread on that process, maybe it doesn’t need explaining. lol


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  16. trucker1
    Joined: Sep 6, 2011
    Posts: 76

    trucker1
    Member

    When you check the drums for wear and need new ones, you cannot just press the wheel studs out as they are swedged together. You will need a cutting tool to get them out, then press in some studs that are a press fit to capture the hub and drum. On the axle key they should have the bevel down and toward the center. Glynn.
     
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  17. Well one backing plate on. Slow progress! Lol I plan to assemble it all and build a roller before painting and rebuilding the brakes. Got to learn about these adjusters first! Are the adjusters a component that can be replaced?? How traditional
    Is traditional??


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  18. ironfly28
    Joined: Dec 22, 2003
    Posts: 968

    ironfly28
    Member
    from Orange, CA

    Looks great! You seem to have an aptitude for this stuff. Since you already have the parts might I suggest playing with the front brake setup just to see what you have going on? I ran 32 spindles with '40 brakes and '36 wires on my first coupe and everything went right together... didn't even need wheel spacers. I did have to elongate one hole on each of the backing plates. We can a tell you what the book says but sometimes the parts read different. If you have an A rear end with better than 4.11 why are you not running it? I've had /known several cars with A rears and they worked just fine behind hopped up flatheads and '39 trans at 80-90 mph all day. Also the '46 rear is a simple conversion to run spring over if you use the perches off the A rear. So if you've got a 3.55 in a 46 rear I'd probably go that route.
     
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  19. I get a kick every time I look at this photo. Maybe some food for thought for ya. It's all Henry Iron with a little card shuffle, no hand fab nothing.
    Nov 2011 x 3 002.jpg Step #2
    Test fit #1 004.jpg
    And so on. Like I said "all Henry" no scratch carved or mail order pieces. Well, except the exhaust.
    20150928_082642.jpg
     
  20. Thanks for the kind words! My front brake parts list so far consists of 42-48 spindles and backing plates, I still have to acquire the drums. I plan to use my 35 wire wheels. I believe I will need some spacer rings for those. I do have the stock A rear end I will check the gear ratio on it tonight. I'm just trying to learn as I go. My plan is to convert this 35 rear to spring over. I hope to someday, just run the car around locally and drive it to work here and there and that's about it. I do plan to keep doing this after this build though and I already am seeing cars I need in my life. haha
     
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  21. Yeah, That's what I'm talking about. Nice setup. I am hoping to a quire an x member like that. I've seen a few but haven't been able to acquire one yet. That's my goal, collect all the real Henry stuff and slide her together. That's as cool as it gets! I got a question for you. Is that a late rear like 47-48? What gear ratio are you running? I was wondering if I could get away with running my spring behind and would it set my wheels to far forward or be really noticeable? Thanks
     
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  22. lodaddyo
    Joined: May 5, 2002
    Posts: 1,202

    lodaddyo
    Member

    If you want to run that a rear like that just move the crossmember back to maintain the same wheel base.
     
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  23. Tman
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 34,117

    Tman
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Shows he is a man of taste
     
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  24. ironfly28
    Joined: Dec 22, 2003
    Posts: 968

    ironfly28
    Member
    from Orange, CA

    There was a guy "Chris" I think. Had a post where he cut the model A spring perches off of his axle bells and bolted/welded them to his '46 rear end. The width of the spring perches took up the additional width of the late rear end which I believe is one inch wider (1/2") on each side...he didn't have to make any frame modifications and if you're eye is so calibrated that you can see a half inch of extra offset than you will do well in some sort of inspection related job. I wish I could find the post...it had a lot of great ingenious tricks.
     
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  25. wheeldog57
    Joined: Dec 6, 2013
    Posts: 1,988

    wheeldog57
    Member

    Logan, looking great bud! All the pieces are going together. . . I did the trail and error thing MANY times, seeing what fit with what and what does not fit with that. I asked many many questions to people in the know. Knowledge is key, it saves alot of money. Keeps you from buying things that may look cool but won't work with the stuff you have already. Example:
    I really like wide five wheels, I was determined to run them. Therefore I had to learn (the hard way) how to make them fit my chassis. I also learned that most people don't like the wide five stuff so I got alot of it for real cheap or free
    So, keep the faith, ask questions, and have fun!
     
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  26. Plan to read through your build thread tonight! Looks awesome.
     
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  27. I do have an A rear end I could cut up, but I been looking at the house of fab hangers. If a junk A axle pops up where I can get ahold of it, and not feel bad for putting the torch to it I will.
     
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  28. Thanks, Its a learning experience for sure. I'm having a lot of fun, and its amazing the amount of knowledge that gets passed around here.My build will be slower then some peoples, but im hoping to build a solid foundation of knowledge as i go, and to me that's a lot of fun.
     
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  29. lodaddyo
    Joined: May 5, 2002
    Posts: 1,202

    lodaddyo
    Member

    I didnt move mine, i just cut the hangers off some old junk model A bells and welded them on my 35 bells. David makes some nice hangers if you decide to go that route
     
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