Projects My first build. 1929/31 model A

Millimeter schmillimeter .... sure does look pretty !

 

Thanks! I tried to measure the bores in my block a while ago. All info was in fraction inches and the dial was in mm's. It takes some time to convert 3 5/16" (or whatever) to mm's, gave me headache...


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Started on the subframe tonite. The wide cross channel should be 75 mm but was 110. Started by removing a strip in the middle and welded the two halves together again.



Next step was to cut the cross channels to correct length and check the width of the frame compared to the original pieces. Boy am I glad I never split the subframe as I planned to!



Next step will be to transfer the holes from the old to the new rails and channels.


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With a little help from my wife I checked the subframe for squareness and popriveted it together.



Not really sure what to do with the warped panels. I figure the one that's shaped like a bridge needs some shrinking at the highest point, am I right? I'll YouTube tonite to see what I find



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No pics in this post, just boring text and a bunch of (probably) stupid questions:
Can anyone tell me how I know what the correct location for the subframe is, do I start with the firewall and build backwards?

The engine block is mocked up in the frame and should be sitting at the correct place since I started with the rear axle (stock model A), a 1939 78 gearbox and bolted the block with bellhousing to the transmission. However, it seems like I need to cut the firewall to get clearance for the block, not just only the breather. Since I've read about builders making the flatty fit with the same set up as mine, without cutting the firewall, I'm wondering where the difference is. Is there a different bellhousing to use for the 8BA or are they using 59AB blocks? It seems like I need about an inch to make it work.

Any comments on this matter or how to properly locate the subframe?

 

I centered and squared the sub frame on 3/4 plywood sheet and start from the cowl back. I can't help with the bell housing. I am using a Lakewood scatter shield between an LS1 engine and T-10 transmission.

Joe

 

Start from the cowl. Do NOT finish weld the cowl (A pillar) in place. Make sure all the body panels line up and fit correctly. Once they do, I would cross brace them internally and then double check everything a few more times. Once you are convinced everything is square, then go ahead and do your welding.
Something else; you mentioned you "pop riveted" the floor pans to sub rails. I hope you used steel rivets. If you didn't you will get galvanic corrosion with aluminum on steel.
If you did, I would take them out and spot weld.
That's just me.


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Thank you, great idea with a plywood board as a build table!

 

Thank you!
I pop riveted the subframe rails and the crossrails(?) to get the subframe together. I used aluminum pop rivets, but my intention is to either use steel rivets with a rivet gun, or spot weld it when I'm sure everything fits. Floor pans are still not in, they are so warped from the stamping that I need to do some shrinking/stretching to make them fit.

 

I was using an empty engine block as a mock up, but realized that it would probably be better to use the actual motor that's going in the frame. Didn't think there was a difference, but there sure was. Now I have no clearance issues with the firewall but I had to cut the front crossmember to clear the pulleys. Unfortunately I cut too much, so I have to weld a piece back to it. Measure twice and cut once might be something I ought to consider in the future...

Anyway, the driveline is now bolted in place in the frame and everything seems to fit.



The firewall is now bolted in place and I will continue to measure where to relief cut the frame rails for the Z'ed frame.

I also need to shorten the cross steering rod since the distance between the hubs became shorter when the axle was dropped. I will cut it in half, shorten and sleeve it and weld it back together. The toe in is extreme right now and makes it hard to roll it back and forth, which I need to do every time I work on it.


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Today I just had a couple of minutes to spare so I pop riveted the rear crossmember in the subframe. Tomorrow I'll start fabricating the bulges over the crossmember and weld them to the subframe.



I also cut the tie rod to shorten it, will buy pipe tomorrow to sleeve it.

The wife made a guest appearance in the workshop and wanted a photo with our favorite flag




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Tie rod blasted, cleaned and shortened. New bronze bushings in the rod ends with some grease. Now it steers again!

Cut in half, an inch shorter and welded with a solid 10 mm steel rod pressed inside the tube for strength.



New bushings. Pointless picture, but they are in there




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Been away on vacation for a week and started to miss the project after just a couple of days. Now I'm finally back and got to spend an hour on it tonite.

Fitted the cowlpanels and tacked them in place. They seemed to fit pretty good and they lined up good with the tank.





Next step will be a pillars and an attempt to mock up the windshield frame that was brutally cut by someone in the past. Same thing with the doors, but pictures of all that will come later on.


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Kidcampbell71, my only follower, thank you for your support!


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haha !! Your page views are nearing 20 thousand though (!!!) ... I learn by watching ... everyone here does too. I like to keep my mouth shut on these rare (these days) build threads. No babble needed from me. Great stuff, sir ! Thank you for sharing.

 

I'm here, too! Great work! Keep it up!


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Looking good. Cant wait till its done. Keep up the good work. Bob......

 

Thanks guys! Didn't know about the page views, not that internet savvy so I know how to check that. Took me a while to figure out how to find my own build thread so I could update it

You shouldn't take my work too seriously though, basically I have no clue what I'm doing. This puzzle didn't come with instructions, but I'm trying to look at how others do it and work from there. Luckily I'm Swedish and I'm used to IKEA furniture. Otherwise I've realized that Google and this place rules!


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Just found this thread of yours today, Tobbe! Probably brushed shoulders with you in Southern Calif., my sons and I were down there for the Pomona Fathers Day swap. (we live North of Fresno)
This has been a MAJOR build for you, I've been thru some of these as well as the ones I'm doing now.

I'm a retired BMW senior master tech, but was in the hot rods BEFORE Porsche/BMW.
My BMW customers used to look at my '27 Highboy in my shop and ask "What's THAT?"
Anyway, glad you didn't 'bail' on the project. Hang in there, you've got friends in this with you.

 

Just read the whole thread. Thanks for posting the good and the bad. We all learn from both. Enjoyed every minute of the process. Subscribed.

 

Unfortunately not at the Father's Day swap. I live in Sweden but I go to gnrs and sac autorama every year to enjoy the cars and help set up the show. 2017 I'm forced to stay home due to work, but the plan is to go to the Father's Day show if everything goes according to plan.

Interesting that you've been in the same business as I am. I find it relaxing to be able to fix something with actual tools instead of computers. Been tinkering with a E46 M3 with SMG problems today and just dreamt about some welding on the Ford instead


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Thanks Bugguts! That's why I think it's fun, I get to do some welding and I'm looking forward to try to shrink metal and I'm thinking about learning tig welding. Fun with new skills, but sometimes it feels like I do everything twice. The wrong way, and later the right way


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Got some time after work so I started fixing the rust in the A-pillar. The metal was paper thin around the holes so I made a patch panel.



Ground flush and finished



I'll continue with the other side tomorrow


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The a pillar is now done at the base. This is the bracket on the left hand side, the right one was gone.



My solution. I just bashed the dimple with a ball peen hammer on a wooden block. I'll try to smoothen it a bit later on


Previous owner cut the a pillars, probably for a chop. I asked on a model A forum about the distance between the hinges since they are missing on the doors.


It took just five minutes before I got the correct info!


Had to grind off all the screws to remove the rear panel in the trunk to be able grind all the screws to remove the rear crossmember. Lots of grinding today



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Rear floor pan in the trunk removed, the rest of the cut subframe and the rear crossmember gone. Popriveted B pillars taken out for assessment and repair and subframe cut outs over rear frame crossmember closed again. Productive day!



I would buy new pillars if I could find them. Amazing that no one seems to make them except a company in Australia!


Almost empty. Tomorrow I'll test fit the body on the subframe to see what it looks like and how much I need to redo.


Marked for the cut.




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Been quiet here for a while but today is cleaning day. I rolled her back to be able to tidy the space a bit and I took a picture. Right now I'm sitting on a storage box admiring the view, just need to find the energy to move on with the build






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Hey Tobbe, I've been subscrided from the start from Canada. Congratulations on your tenacity. Hang in there lad, if it was easy everybody would be doing it.
Swedes rule!

 

Hey Canada!

Thank you for your kind words! I'll keep building in my own pace

 

I got the space cleaned out nicely and got some more room in there to work with. I will clean it again the coming weekend since the blast cabinet dust collector backfired tonight while blasting a 1940 Ford brake master cylinder. Didn't realize what happened until it was to late

Tonight I bolted the firewall, side panels and a-pillars together. I figured that they need to be rigid before I start hanging the doors to establish the location of the b-pillars. When all bolts were in it became really sturdy and I could hang the right hand door with a minimum of flex. I hereby offer you a couple of boring pictures, mostly displaying bolts.






In order to locate the rear end of the body I need to bolt it to the crossmember.



Can anyone please supply me with the bolt and thread size? We use metric in Sweden and finding inch sized bolts and nuts is not easy. Help is really appreciated!

 

Solved the bolt issue, retapped to M6 metric thread since it's more convenient and it was really close in size.

I have another problem. The wheel wells I bought from Brookville doesn't seem to fit. There is a small pressing that makes it look like it's for a 30/31, and the shape of the three beads in the well is symmetric instead of asymmetric. If I try to align it to the butchered quarter panel it seems too high.



When I align the rear edge with the corner, the front of the wheel well doesn't match the quarter panel. It seems like I need to cut a bigger opening in the quarter panel the fit the well. Hard to explain since English isn't my first language, but maybe my gibberish makes sense to someone?




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