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My first 32 Chevy build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Carl5Coupe, Jan 18, 2011.

  1. 94hoghead
    Joined: Jun 1, 2007
    Posts: 1,290

    94hoghead
    Member

    Great start! gonna be a very cool car. Glad to see the straight axle made its way back under the fron end.
     
  2. Great car, good luck with it. I'm building a 33 Chevy Cabriolet. Replacing the wood can be done.
     
  3. Carl5Coupe
    Joined: Oct 31, 2010
    Posts: 601

    Carl5Coupe
    Member
    from Buford Ga

    Thanks for all the input guys, It great to see that there are so may Chevy lovers out there. I found a rear today, 1995 4x4 Jimmy 3.73 locker. I pick it up in the morning.

    Carl
     
  4. Carl5Coupe
    Joined: Oct 31, 2010
    Posts: 601

    Carl5Coupe
    Member
    from Buford Ga

    The frames has come along well. We primed the frame painted the front-end. I still have alot of welding to do and I want to put in a X brace. That will come after the motor and rear are installed so that I can what I have to work with.

    [​IMG]

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  5. Carl5Coupe
    Joined: Oct 31, 2010
    Posts: 601

    Carl5Coupe
    Member
    from Buford Ga

    I plan on doing some wood work but also plan on putting in a good bit of steel in the body. My dad has a wood shop in North Carlina, I was thinking about taking the car up there for a week and seeing how much we can replace and then replace the rest with 1x1 steel. Either way it looks like that will be the fun part. I like fabing up steel so after the frame and motor are in the body will be next. Some time later this spring to summer. If I run out of money the body will get started sooner since I have most of that laying around.

    Carl
     
  6. Ghost28
    Joined: Nov 23, 2008
    Posts: 3,150

    Ghost28
    Member

    Dang that frame is looking good. Are you gonna have to or did you notch the underside of the frame where the transverse spring travels? The reason I ask is I had to put notches in both of my old chevy frames for clearance once the weight is on it.
     

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  7. Carl5Coupe
    Joined: Oct 31, 2010
    Posts: 601

    Carl5Coupe
    Member
    from Buford Ga

    Ghost, yeah I did notch the frame. Then I had a bunch of friends jump up and down on it to make sure I had clearance. Yours is looking good also. Looks like AC is on the list. So is this where you are now or is this something that was done a while back? Did you have to have a custom cut drag link made or did you make it your self? Im thinking about buying the two taps and doing it my self.
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2011
  8. Carl5Coupe
    Joined: Oct 31, 2010
    Posts: 601

    Carl5Coupe
    Member
    from Buford Ga

    Its Sunday night and the wife Deb has helped me all weekend hunt down a new rear in the junk yards. So its time to clean up some old dirt track wheels I bought the other day and do a dry fit but first they need to be cleaned up. Now this is a good women. Get down and dirty baby. Hears another cold one.

    [​IMG]
     
  9. Ghost28
    Joined: Nov 23, 2008
    Posts: 3,150

    Ghost28
    Member

    Friends jumping on your frame that's what I did also. This is the 28 chevy that I sold but still building and it's this way as of now. Yeah ac was planned for this car all along, brake lines next then exhaust. The drag ling I ordered to size from speedway, but damned if I didn't order it too short, so I spliced it with a solid piece of steel on the inside and welded it back together, then for good measure I tapped a bolt into it.
    To make it your self using a left and right tap you could do it, but it might be cheaper to just buy it unless your gonna do quite a few.
     
  10. mink
    Joined: Oct 4, 2007
    Posts: 1,303

    mink
    Member
    from CT

    Drums or Disc? You may have some trouble the rear has disc in the rear. The brake specialist told me to run drums in the read with my front disc setup. But that was for manual breaks and a corvette master.
     
  11. mink
    Joined: Oct 4, 2007
    Posts: 1,303

    mink
    Member
    from CT


    Save your self the hasstle and have speedway do it for 80$
     
  12. Ghost28
    Joined: Nov 23, 2008
    Posts: 3,150

    Ghost28
    Member

    I did buy that 32 cowl. Kinda rough, but it will be good for parts.
     

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  13. chopper526
    Joined: Sep 12, 2010
    Posts: 252

    chopper526
    Member
    from Phila., PA

    Carl5Coupe, how do you do it? My wife just walks in the garage, smiles, shakes her head and walks out.
     
  14. Carl5Coupe
    Joined: Oct 31, 2010
    Posts: 601

    Carl5Coupe
    Member
    from Buford Ga

    I'm running drums on the rear, the rear I bought today has just about new breaks on it and the drums are in great shape. I'm thinking that all I have to do is hook up the break lines and go, so I'm good there. I bought a proportioning valve to help with the pressure between the front and rear. I can run the break lines after I build the X bracing on the frame and mount the master cylinder. Here we gooooo and the swamp man says!!
     
  15. Carl5Coupe
    Joined: Oct 31, 2010
    Posts: 601

    Carl5Coupe
    Member
    from Buford Ga

    I hope that I don't need anything but glass on my 31, I have a glass guy at work that will be buying my glass from and he thinks has a supplier for rubber. Does anybody know where to get the windshield and side glass rubber?

    As for the wife, I met her when she was putting air shocks on her Bonneville back in the day. All I had to do was hand her the tools. She is the best. :)

    Carl
     
  16. Ghost28
    Joined: Nov 23, 2008
    Posts: 3,150

    Ghost28
    Member

    Proportioning valve is a good idea, but you will also need if your master cylinder is under the floor is a #10 residual valve for the rear and a #2 residual valve for the front to keep the fluid from rolling back towards the master culinder and loosing your brakes.
     
  17. Carl5Coupe
    Joined: Oct 31, 2010
    Posts: 601

    Carl5Coupe
    Member
    from Buford Ga

    Thanks Ghost
    I will be making an order with Speedway this week and I will get the valves on order. I found that the Vega steering box need the pitman arm replaced. The stock one won't work, I'm also going to get a the drag link. Things are looking better.
     
  18. Carl5Coupe
    Joined: Oct 31, 2010
    Posts: 601

    Carl5Coupe
    Member
    from Buford Ga

    I twisted my back last Sunday so work has been slow this week. I put in the new rear I had to move the spring plates to align with the springs, I tacked the rear in place but will need to be adjusted after the motor is in. I also painted the front rims and mounted the tires. I hope to mock up the motor again this week after I paint it. The motor will need a rebuild I'm sure but for now I'm going to clean it up, put it in and see how things fit.

    I moved up the motor mounts to make some room for the steering box. I hope its not to high. Can it be to high, if so is there a height that I should be looking for?

    I have a set of 10X15 rims but it seems that tires are expensive. I might go back with 8" rims just to help the cost. Any input on tires would be a help.

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    Last edited: Jan 30, 2011
  19. It's looking good Carl, Can't wait to see you burning some rubber
    :D
     
  20. I'm not to fond of IFS on fenderless cars. That said , I don't think my Chevy came out too bad. My 1st build.
    Keep up the good work. I have subscribed. FYI I am now working on stitching up my interior.
     

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  21. Kettleman
    Joined: Mar 28, 2006
    Posts: 149

    Kettleman
    Member

    Looks good, for the windshield and side glass rubber, you might try I&I Reproduction, they have a bunch of stuff for Chevy's from 29 to 54.

    They are in California, 562-531-8117
    www.iandireproduction.com

    Keep the pictures coming.
     
  22. Carl5Coupe
    Joined: Oct 31, 2010
    Posts: 601

    Carl5Coupe
    Member
    from Buford Ga

    Hey Bob
    I like the pictures, Your ride looks great. I was checking out the stearing column install. I have a full size tilt column I was thinking of installing but some one told me to use a front wheel drive column since it is shorter. :confused: not sure what to do.
     
  23. Carl5Coupe
    Joined: Oct 31, 2010
    Posts: 601

    Carl5Coupe
    Member
    from Buford Ga

    Thanks Kettleman, I will call them this week.

    Carl
     
  24. My column is out of a Buick. 70's vimtage. Can't get much fiuller size then that. All depends on the angle you want and clearences.I could have dropped mine another 1". I did use 2 knuckles in the linkage.
     

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    Last edited: Jan 30, 2011
  25. Carl, I have stacks of Chevy links to suppliers if u need some.
     
  26. chopper526
    Joined: Sep 12, 2010
    Posts: 252

    chopper526
    Member
    from Phila., PA

    Looking good Carl. Bob, I might be able to use some of those supplier links if you don't mind.
     
  27. chopper526
    Joined: Sep 12, 2010
    Posts: 252

    chopper526
    Member
    from Phila., PA

    Thanks, Bob! that was quick. Jim
     
  28. scoop
    Joined: Jul 4, 2001
    Posts: 1,256

    scoop
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Looking good!It's got 1/8" metal for the floor? Thats got to weigh a ton!
     
  29. Carl5Coupe
    Joined: Oct 31, 2010
    Posts: 601

    Carl5Coupe
    Member
    from Buford Ga

    The body is heavy but it looks good. I don't think its going anywhere. Plenty to weld to.

    Carl
     

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