Hot Rods My Coil is Hot

1946 Dodge Truck with a 1985 318 stock Engine. After 15 min the coil gets too hot to touch for more than a second.
I replaced the Coil, Ballast, and Ignition Control Module still gets Real Hot.
It runs good, just Hot coil.
When Ignition is ON but Not running I have 7.24V on the Positive coil terminal.
On the Neg Coil terminal I have 1.1V THe Ballast has 11V on one end and 6.5 V on the other.
When Running
9.8V on Coil Positive terminal and 3.2V on Coil Neg terminal
The Ballast has 14.32V and 9.8V
My Coil Primary is 1.42 Ohms and Secondary is 12.26K Ohms
My Ballast is 1.6 Ohms
Anyone understand Chrysler Ignitions to offer a potential solution?
DK

 

I'll try to help. I'll get the stupid thoughts out first. Is it mounted near a heat source, exhaust manifold?...otherwise...

"I replaced the Coil, Ballast, and Ignition Control Module still gets Real Hot.
It runs good, just Hot coil."

Too hot to touch? If it's over about 130-140 deg or so...that is hot.

"When Ignition is ON but Not running I have 7.24V on the Positive coil terminal.
On the Neg Coil terminal I have 1.1V THe Ballast has 11V on one end and 6.5 V on the other."

The voltages are odd. The ballast one end should be same as battery +, on and running. The coil negative if points should be close to 0v with points closed...not sure if you're using a module.
Since ballast goes to ign. switch one end (should equal battery +) other to coil +, (then that's why coil + should equal that side of the ballast voltage). On, not running a good battery should be about 12.5v.


"When Running
9.8V on Coil Positive terminal and 3.2V on Coil Neg terminal
The Ballast has 14.32V and 9.8V"

That seems ok.

"My Coil Primary is 1.42 Ohms and Secondary is 12.26K Ohms"
My Ballast is 1.6 Ohms
Anyone understand Chrysler Ignitions to offer a potential solution?

Be sure ballast is correct for that setup (That coil and module). Be sure coil is external ballast type. Check the module data to be sure that's the right coil for it.

Sent from my SM-S320VL using Tapatalk

 

Thank you!
The Coil is mounted at the back of the engine on top of the Intake.
It is too Hot to leave you fingers on it for more than a second. it must be over 140 degrees??
The voltages are as I put in. Not that they are correct.
I "think" the Ballast, and Ignition Control module, and coil match. I looked them up on Autozone for an 85 D100 which is the donor for the engine, and the part numbers are what they gave me.
DK

 

Is this something new that happened?
I would double check the ignition module, check the paperwork for it, any information or data which would tell you what coil to use with it or if you even need a ballast resistor.

Sent from my SM-S320VL using Tapatalk

 

Can’t help with hot coil problem, but 14.32volts seems a little high to me.

 

I seem to recall from years ago that adding the Mopar electronic ignition conversion kit to an earlier vehicle with points required using the newer style electronic voltage regulator. You got anything out of the ordinary going on there?

 

Yeah, I got lost in the math and I rarely touch my coil. Anything on a hot engine is bound to be hot regardless. Mount the coil on the firewall or fender well and get back to us.

 

I worked with Ron Francis Wiring company a bit, he said all the voltages are within range. he said to get a coil with at least a 1.7 Ohm primary. an to mount the Coil off the engine or Vertical. The vertical part is so that is does not gain any heat from the Intake manifold if possible. I made a Bracket and waiting on the paint to dry, will install tomorrow and see.