Register now to get rid of these ads!

Projects My AV8 flathead build.. blown...

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by hotrodderhaag, Jan 28, 2013.

  1. Your project is coming along great. I am really enjoying watching the build. Keep up the good work.
     
  2. you're coupe is awesome! I can see why you're in love with it. Subscribed!
     
  3. hotrodderhaag
    Joined: Jan 22, 2007
    Posts: 2,117

    hotrodderhaag
    Member

    thanks! im gonna built a roadster next.. on a 32 chassis.. flattie, t-5, open drive with a banjo....
    already collecting parts :)
     
  4. f1 fred
    Joined: Apr 29, 2005
    Posts: 514

    f1 fred
    Member
    from mn

    Really impressed with this build! Thanks for sharing your progress!
     
  5. Fenders
    Joined: Sep 8, 2007
    Posts: 3,922

    Fenders
    Member

    I'm only up to page 4 so maybe this has been answered, but you gotta put in an automatic snipe bid ... I use esnipe.com ... buffer it so no one can have time to see your bid and outbid you, make your bid appear 2 or 3 seconds before the end of the auction.
     
  6. hotrodderhaag
    Joined: Jan 22, 2007
    Posts: 2,117

    hotrodderhaag
    Member

    Ill have to keep that in mind .. Never herd of that
     
  7. hotrodderhaag
    Joined: Jan 22, 2007
    Posts: 2,117

    hotrodderhaag
    Member

    So when I was selling my stock parts I accidentally got rid of my fan to bolt on the charger .... Luckily the guy was super nice and I met him off an interstate exit and he gladly returned it.... Sooo I slapped it on and measurements are showing me its still too high .. An A radiator is 23 3/8 from mounts to underside of tank .. My fan is 25.... What to do what to do.... One inch blocks under rad and trim fan blades 1 inch?? Suggestions?

    [​IMG]
     
  8. hotrodderhaag
    Joined: Jan 22, 2007
    Posts: 2,117

    hotrodderhaag
    Member

    Got some side work done also. just need to do some finish welds and smooth it all out

    [​IMG]
     
  9. HotRodMicky
    Joined: Oct 14, 2001
    Posts: 1,767

    HotRodMicky
    Member

    Cut down the blades on the fan.....
     

  10. Why?
     
  11. Mart
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 4,255

    Mart
    Member

    Huh?

    Because they are fouling the rad - that's why.

    Did you miss that?

    Mart.
     
  12. luv the mailbox, and the build.
     
  13. hotrodderhaag
    Joined: Jan 22, 2007
    Posts: 2,117

    hotrodderhaag
    Member

    I'm gonna put 1/2 " spacers under rad. And trim the fan blades... I will see how that looks. May remove spacers and trim fan even more. I'm awaiting the arrival of my radiator so it is on hold till then... I've even workig in my pedal assembly and its coming along. Alot of fit work I make sure it's just perfect as far as location and movement ... I'm hoping to be able to get that done by the weekend and get the drop axle in the front yet.. I have been slacking .. I drove to knob creek Kentucky for a gun show/shoot.... That killed my weekend and my spare cash .. Ill do what I can this weekend and I would like to be able to actually run it by Friday... Atleast sit and idle ... Thanks for the comments guys ....
     
  14. hotrodderhaag
    Joined: Jan 22, 2007
    Posts: 2,117

    hotrodderhaag
    Member

    Finally got my intake

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  15. money shot, keep stacking em!
     
  16. olskl_dave
    Joined: May 25, 2008
    Posts: 122

    olskl_dave
    Member

    Lovin' this build.......
     
  17. hotrodderhaag
    Joined: Jan 22, 2007
    Posts: 2,117

    hotrodderhaag
    Member

    should have the motor back out this weekend and all painted high gloss black, with the red charger. it should look good with the polished copper lines and fittings. im painting the intake also. someone blasted it before i got it and its very pitted. so it will look cast which is fine with me. ordered a chrome acorn set for the heads .
    i need to contact the guy who builds the distributors for these.. i need to get one built to get good hot spark out of it..
     
  18. general gow
    Joined: Feb 5, 2003
    Posts: 6,270

    general gow
    MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    that looks soooo good. killer car, man. nicely done so far.
     
  19. hotrodderhaag
    Joined: Jan 22, 2007
    Posts: 2,117

    hotrodderhaag
    Member

    Problem...... My 39 pedals are incorrect and will not work. Im not sure what I was thinking... I have to be able to push my clutch lever on the bell housing, not pull it back... With this pedal setup it wants to pull it... I made a thin galvanized bracket, easily formable, and then realized that I was wrong in staying these would work.. Trying to figure out what to do now .....

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  20. Elrod
    Joined: Aug 7, 2002
    Posts: 3,561

    Elrod
    Member

    Those look like home made 39s. That clutch bracket is obviously welded on. You could cut it off and relocate to the top
     
  21. hotrodderhaag
    Joined: Jan 22, 2007
    Posts: 2,117

    hotrodderhaag
    Member


    someone did do a little repair to them.. i was thinking about cutting it off and relocating it to the top. but i think i would have to lower my pedals so much to make the linkage not bind up that they would be way to low .
     
  22. Mart
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 4,255

    Mart
    Member

    Unless you can come up with some sort of relay setup for the pedals, you need new levers top and bottom.

    You need a lever sticking backwards from the release shaft on the trans, and another lever sticking back on the pedal. the linkage will be near vertical and will pull upwards. At mid stroke the levers should be at a right angle to a line drawn between the pivot points. The pedal end would be easy to modify by redrilling the shaft where the pedal is attached, rotating the lever t the rear. something similar could be done on the release shaft too, I guess.

    Just sort of theorising here, never done it myself, but I have seen A's with that kind of setup. I don't know if this setup would be worse for chatter or better.

    Make sure the length of the levers match the length of a known stock setup - eg. 39 lever lengths both ends.

    Mart.
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2013
  23. volvobrynk
    Joined: Jan 30, 2011
    Posts: 3,587

    volvobrynk
    Member
    from Denmark

    I was part of a restauration of a 36 ford fireengine, we had a burned coil on the diverhelmet-style ignition. Coil is a overses order and could take up to a week, and we had an hour and a half before a show.

    We had converter the whole car to 12v, had the generator checked. We burned a coil in no time, the guy who sold it claim it was for 12v. We cut the coil just above the baseplate, build a connection that fit a modern style ignition cable and fitted a modern coil.
    And it works like a charme! But please mount the coil in a cool and dry position.

    Works like a charm! And cheap, Redneck Engineering ad it's finest.
     
  24. hotrodderhaag
    Joined: Jan 22, 2007
    Posts: 2,117

    hotrodderhaag
    Member

    thanks for the info,
    i plan on running a crab style dist. with a reloacted coil with a fined cooler around it also. i want to make sure i get a nie hot spark.. from some of the older guys i have talked to, they have driven flatheads alot and they say with a good spark they are a much stronger engine
    thanks!
     
  25. volvobrynk
    Joined: Jan 30, 2011
    Posts: 3,587

    volvobrynk
    Member
    from Denmark

    The engine in the 36 truck is not the motor it came with. Acording to last fire station it came out of a newer car, that got wrecked in the WW2. But it still runs the diver-helmet ignition, so who knows. But we never rebuild the long block (low milage), we started it up after a ones-over and a tune up of the carb and ignition. And poured a wonderdrug down the WOT, and another in 3 gallon of fuel. It runs like any rebuild motor I've tried.
    It soposedly a 90HP, the 12V conversion did a lot on start up, but the coil makes it more alive and response great to the throttle. And all 90HP is really set free now!

    But please remember this is not a Hot Rod, it's a 1936 Danish build fireengine with a big steel covered body on a 35/36 157 commercial-build cowl truck, with a real un-syncro top loader truck box.
    But the Fine Flathead really performs well.
     
  26. hotrodderhaag
    Joined: Jan 22, 2007
    Posts: 2,117

    hotrodderhaag
    Member

    i ordered my radiator.. its not a brassworks, but this will ensure my engine stays cool with the smaller fan i have to run.. i had custom water necks installed and im moving the fill neck back to the top like factory... ill just shoot it with athin coat of satin black heat paint. so it blends in.. i didnt want aluminum, but this is 100% usa made, fully tig welded and with a warrenty.. couldnt go wrong..

    [​IMG]
     
  27. carrera600
    Joined: Oct 20, 2010
    Posts: 47

    carrera600
    Member

    WOW, what a fantastic thread, wished i was that far !!! Awesome car and engine.
     
  28. Screamin J Pito
    Joined: Oct 16, 2010
    Posts: 92

    Screamin J Pito
    Member

    One of the coolest builds I've seen! Keep up the good work! Subscribed
     
  29. hotrodderhaag
    Joined: Jan 22, 2007
    Posts: 2,117

    hotrodderhaag
    Member

    Thanks . It's alot further along than I figured I would get this year. I've had some good friends that really helped me score some much needed parts. Hope to move it under its own power soon
    Thanks pito,
     
  30. hotrodderhaag
    Joined: Jan 22, 2007
    Posts: 2,117

    hotrodderhaag
    Member

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2020 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.