The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by hotrodderhaag, Jan 28, 2013.
Your project is coming along great. I am really enjoying watching the build. Keep up the good work.
you're coupe is awesome! I can see why you're in love with it. Subscribed!
thanks! im gonna built a roadster next.. on a 32 chassis.. flattie, t-5, open drive with a banjo....
already collecting parts
Really impressed with this build! Thanks for sharing your progress!
I'm only up to page 4 so maybe this has been answered, but you gotta put in an automatic snipe bid ... I use esnipe.com ... buffer it so no one can have time to see your bid and outbid you, make your bid appear 2 or 3 seconds before the end of the auction.
Ill have to keep that in mind .. Never herd of that
So when I was selling my stock parts I accidentally got rid of my fan to bolt on the charger .... Luckily the guy was super nice and I met him off an interstate exit and he gladly returned it.... Sooo I slapped it on and measurements are showing me its still too high .. An A radiator is 23 3/8 from mounts to underside of tank .. My fan is 25.... What to do what to do.... One inch blocks under rad and trim fan blades 1 inch?? Suggestions?
Got some side work done also. just need to do some finish welds and smooth it all out
Cut down the blades on the fan.....
Because they are fouling the rad - that's why.
Did you miss that?
luv the mailbox, and the build.
I'm gonna put 1/2 " spacers under rad. And trim the fan blades... I will see how that looks. May remove spacers and trim fan even more. I'm awaiting the arrival of my radiator so it is on hold till then... I've even workig in my pedal assembly and its coming along. Alot of fit work I make sure it's just perfect as far as location and movement ... I'm hoping to be able to get that done by the weekend and get the drop axle in the front yet.. I have been slacking .. I drove to knob creek Kentucky for a gun show/shoot.... That killed my weekend and my spare cash .. Ill do what I can this weekend and I would like to be able to actually run it by Friday... Atleast sit and idle ... Thanks for the comments guys ....
Finally got my intake
money shot, keep stacking em!
Lovin' this build.......
should have the motor back out this weekend and all painted high gloss black, with the red charger. it should look good with the polished copper lines and fittings. im painting the intake also. someone blasted it before i got it and its very pitted. so it will look cast which is fine with me. ordered a chrome acorn set for the heads .
i need to contact the guy who builds the distributors for these.. i need to get one built to get good hot spark out of it..
that looks soooo good. killer car, man. nicely done so far.
Problem...... My 39 pedals are incorrect and will not work. Im not sure what I was thinking... I have to be able to push my clutch lever on the bell housing, not pull it back... With this pedal setup it wants to pull it... I made a thin galvanized bracket, easily formable, and then realized that I was wrong in staying these would work.. Trying to figure out what to do now .....
Those look like home made 39s. That clutch bracket is obviously welded on. You could cut it off and relocate to the top
someone did do a little repair to them.. i was thinking about cutting it off and relocating it to the top. but i think i would have to lower my pedals so much to make the linkage not bind up that they would be way to low .
Unless you can come up with some sort of relay setup for the pedals, you need new levers top and bottom.
You need a lever sticking backwards from the release shaft on the trans, and another lever sticking back on the pedal. the linkage will be near vertical and will pull upwards. At mid stroke the levers should be at a right angle to a line drawn between the pivot points. The pedal end would be easy to modify by redrilling the shaft where the pedal is attached, rotating the lever t the rear. something similar could be done on the release shaft too, I guess.
Just sort of theorising here, never done it myself, but I have seen A's with that kind of setup. I don't know if this setup would be worse for chatter or better.
Make sure the length of the levers match the length of a known stock setup - eg. 39 lever lengths both ends.
I was part of a restauration of a 36 ford fireengine, we had a burned coil on the diverhelmet-style ignition. Coil is a overses order and could take up to a week, and we had an hour and a half before a show.
We had converter the whole car to 12v, had the generator checked. We burned a coil in no time, the guy who sold it claim it was for 12v. We cut the coil just above the baseplate, build a connection that fit a modern style ignition cable and fitted a modern coil.
And it works like a charme! But please mount the coil in a cool and dry position.
Works like a charm! And cheap, Redneck Engineering ad it's finest.
thanks for the info,
i plan on running a crab style dist. with a reloacted coil with a fined cooler around it also. i want to make sure i get a nie hot spark.. from some of the older guys i have talked to, they have driven flatheads alot and they say with a good spark they are a much stronger engine
The engine in the 36 truck is not the motor it came with. Acording to last fire station it came out of a newer car, that got wrecked in the WW2. But it still runs the diver-helmet ignition, so who knows. But we never rebuild the long block (low milage), we started it up after a ones-over and a tune up of the carb and ignition. And poured a wonderdrug down the WOT, and another in 3 gallon of fuel. It runs like any rebuild motor I've tried.
It soposedly a 90HP, the 12V conversion did a lot on start up, but the coil makes it more alive and response great to the throttle. And all 90HP is really set free now!
But please remember this is not a Hot Rod, it's a 1936 Danish build fireengine with a big steel covered body on a 35/36 157 commercial-build cowl truck, with a real un-syncro top loader truck box.
But the Fine Flathead really performs well.
i ordered my radiator.. its not a brassworks, but this will ensure my engine stays cool with the smaller fan i have to run.. i had custom water necks installed and im moving the fill neck back to the top like factory... ill just shoot it with athin coat of satin black heat paint. so it blends in.. i didnt want aluminum, but this is 100% usa made, fully tig welded and with a warrenty.. couldnt go wrong..
WOW, what a fantastic thread, wished i was that far !!! Awesome car and engine.
One of the coolest builds I've seen! Keep up the good work! Subscribed
Thanks . It's alot further along than I figured I would get this year. I've had some good friends that really helped me score some much needed parts. Hope to move it under its own power soon
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