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Projects My 59 edsel wagon build.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by greg, Jan 29, 2011.

  1. TrioxinKustoms
    Joined: Oct 16, 2009
    Posts: 551

    TrioxinKustoms
    Member
    from Romney, WV

    looks great, you really have kicked some rusty ass.
     
  2. greg
    Joined: Dec 5, 2006
    Posts: 537

    greg
    Member

    I like that:)
     
  3. rprice76
    Joined: Jun 4, 2011
    Posts: 441

    rprice76
    Member
    from Palominas

    Thanks Greg! South Eastern AZ is a BEAUTIFUL place to be. I did NOT plan that shot - but after I took it - its about as good as it gets!

    I've been following your thread for quite a while - and I love the black and red villagers! Mine was originally Desert Tan. Not two tone - just desert tan. Someone re-painted it two tone - but for the base color they used the beige interior color!!! So odd! The paint needs touch up - but it is what it is!

    Goo luck on your project - I'm still trying to source PS hoses! MACs has all but the primary hose from the pump to the control valve.
     
  4. rprice76
    Joined: Jun 4, 2011
    Posts: 441

    rprice76
    Member
    from Palominas

    wow posted in the wrong thread - but a valid post none the less!
     
  5. greg
    Joined: Dec 5, 2006
    Posts: 537

    greg
    Member

    I Haven't updated my post for a while. I moved the edsel under the leantoo I built behind my garage for the summer.

    I have been working on the seats, just cleaning them up.
    The bottom of the front seat was totally wasted. I took the seat apart and took the seat bottom fabric to a upolsterer friend and he made me some new. He also set me up with a piece of foam and the hog rings, so he just did the cover and I did all the teardown, cleaning and installing.

    I used fabric paint on the rest of the seat where it was so faded and discolored that cleaning wouldnt work.

    Here is the only before picture I have.
    Copy of DSCN2407.JPG
    And the after shots.
    I am changing the color where part of the seat was a tan color.
    The tan fabric paint just didnt cover good, so I went with the red and white. To me the tan looked like it didnt match anything else, and I think it looks better this way.
    Copy of DSCN3369.jpg
    Copy of DSCN3370.jpg
    I am goint to do some pinstriping on the rear of the front seat when I get up enough nerve to do it.:rolleyes:
     
  6. greg
    Joined: Dec 5, 2006
    Posts: 537

    greg
    Member

    Here is one of the middle seats that I cleaned and sprayed with fabric paint.
    This is the 1st time I have used the fabric paint, But I believe I am hooked.:)
    It may not be perfect, but a heck of a lot better than what I had, and will work for now.

    Here it is after I removed the cover it had on it,
    DSCN3372.jpg
    And after cleaning,
    DSCN3373.jpg
    And after painting.
    DSCN3374.jpg
     
  7. greg
    Joined: Dec 5, 2006
    Posts: 537

    greg
    Member

    OK, Its time to get going on the Edsel Project.

    I hope all you other Edsel owners, are about ready to start your winter projects.:):)

    THis is year 3.:D Actually winter #3. I really havent worked on it any during the summer months.

    I parked the 39 ford for the winter, so I freed up some garage space, and the Edsel needs a lot of garage space!!!

    So I will be updating as I go this year, but also want to see all the other progress from the other Edsel owners, so get buisy guys.;)
     
  8. 4444Design
    Joined: Aug 25, 2012
    Posts: 292

    4444Design
    Member

    you did a awesome job in replacing all that rusted stuff

    keep us posted with the updates
     
  9. koolkemp
    Joined: May 7, 2004
    Posts: 6,005

    koolkemp
    Member

    Great to see you back at it!!


    Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
     
  10. halfasskustoms
    Joined: Jan 28, 2011
    Posts: 552

    halfasskustoms
    Member
    from Durham NC

    Wow you've done alot of work on this kool wagon.......Everything lookin real good man. Keep it up.
     
  11. greg
    Joined: Dec 5, 2006
    Posts: 537

    greg
    Member

    Thanks, Guys & gals,

    Im gonna pull the motor first thing this year. There is a freeze plug leaking right behind the passenger motor mount, so I will replace the water pump, oil pump,maybe timing chain, lifters, and all gaskets.
    I also plan on having the trans gone through while its all out.
    Actually all this stuff seems ok, but from the amount of gunk on everything it has never been apart. So being over 50 years old, I figure it needs going through.

    Here is the crusty engine bay.
    DSCN3587.jpg

    DSCN3588.jpg

    DSCN3589.jpg

    DSCN3590.jpg
     
  12. fireman 55
    Joined: Mar 10, 2011
    Posts: 146

    fireman 55
    Member

  13. greg
    Joined: Dec 5, 2006
    Posts: 537

    greg
    Member

    Had a good weekend in the garage. I got the engine and trans pulled today.
    My son was home from college this weekend and dad stopped by about the time we needed to shove the car in and out of the garage.
    DSCN3768.jpg
    here he is working on seperating the trans from the block.
    DSCN3769.jpg

    Here is the gaping hole. I left the trans crossmember in when removing, but it will sure come out when it goes back.
    I also removed the core support. It needed repaired on the bottom anyway, and it gave me plenty of room to pull the motor and trans.
    DSCN3770.jpg
    DSCN3771.jpg
    DSCN3772.jpg
     
  14. greg
    Joined: Dec 5, 2006
    Posts: 537

    greg
    Member

    I just had a thought. I should have done a compression test before i pulled it out.
    well, too late now! I guess I can just pull the heads to see how much wear is on the cylinders, and pull a bearing cap to check for wear. I really dont want to do a complete rebuild, because it did seem to run ok, but never had it out on the open road.
    If anyone has an opinion thats great. Its a 361fe, and they are suppose to be pretty solid.
    The odometer is showing 68k miles.
     
  15. TooManyFords
    Joined: May 21, 2008
    Posts: 553

    TooManyFords
    Member
    from Peotone IL

    Bolt the engine to trans and do compression test on ground
     
  16. greg
    Joined: Dec 5, 2006
    Posts: 537

    greg
    Member

    I though about that, but already have it apart, and on a stand, but might still try it.
     
  17. Edsel58a
    Joined: Jan 17, 2008
    Posts: 804

    Edsel58a
    Member

    So glad i saw this build, I have a similar frame issue to repair and this will help alot. Looking great!
     
  18. I know that this goes in the "FOR SALE" part of the HAMB and I will put it there. However, I have my 85% restored 1959 Ranchero for sale. Medical and other matters dictate I sell it :confused:. She runs and looks good. For pictures and more, contact me at [email protected] or 281-687-1071.
     
  19. nonobadog
    Joined: Jan 8, 2012
    Posts: 19

    nonobadog
    Member

    Great thread! I just found it. I have just started my 58 Edsel project. I just need to get room in the shop. I need some floors and like how you did yours.

    I would leave all the spark plugs in so it will crank smoother while you are checking compression.
     
  20. rprice76
    Joined: Jun 4, 2011
    Posts: 441

    rprice76
    Member
    from Palominas

    Great progress Greg! I've been slacking what with Family and the Holidays and all.
     
  21. greg
    Joined: Dec 5, 2006
    Posts: 537

    greg
    Member

    baddog, yes they take a lot of room.:)

    rprice, iv'e been slow myself, but im starting to get into the groove.:D

    I decided to go ahead and tear it down to see what ive got.
    Here is the dirty ol gal on the stand.
    DSCN3790.jpg
    It looks like 1959 gunk.
    DSCN3792.jpg
    I found 2 bent pushrods.
    They are laid out like they came out. I had one on each bank. I really didnt notice a miss when it was running, but really didnt get it much past idle in the driveway. The intake was really heavy. I remember someone saying that they used a engine crane to lift theirs.:D
     

    Attached Files:

  22. greg
    Joined: Dec 5, 2006
    Posts: 537

    greg
    Member

    Well here is the part i was dreading. I have 4 broke bolts in the upper side of the exhaust manifold.:eek:
    Tomorrow I will try and heat the head, and grab what is left of the stud with a pipe wrench and get them out. I sure hope it works.
    One stud is is broke flush, so i assume I will drill it out and re-tap it, unless someone has a better idea.:confused:
    DSCN3800.jpg

    also, this is 4 out of 4 broke. I still need to do the other side.
     
  23. Country Gent
    Joined: Feb 22, 2010
    Posts: 561

    Country Gent
    BANNED

    On the bolts, try penatrating oil. I love KROIL. It creaps. Before you try wrenching, rap the heads of the bolts with a hammer like you are driving them in. Try to wrench. If no luck, use the blue wrench (torch) again along with more raps of the hammer. What you are doing is trying to slightly stretch the threads. On the flush broke offs, no other choice is to drill them out. Harbor Freight has left handed drill bits that gives you added help. I though have not had much luck with east outs. If you can put the head on a drill press that will really help in drilling a straight down hole. If you booger up the threads, no big deal. Thats what they make Heli-coil inserts for. Pricey but worth it. Good luck.
     
    Last edited: Dec 1, 2012
  24. greg
    Joined: Dec 5, 2006
    Posts: 537

    greg
    Member

    Today didnt go any better. I tried to heat the head on the broken ones and back them out with a pipe wrench, but the studs just twisted off.:(

    I tried to change how I did the other head, and got 1 out ok, but the other 3 twisted off, and I had a bottom bolt break off in the head.:(:(

    But the motor is down to a short block. I believe I am taking the heads to a machine shop so they can drill it good and straight, then re-tap the holes. If i just had a couple to do I might drill it by hand myself, but I think its better to have a shop do it.

    I also read where its a good idea to have the exhaust side shaved for a good fit, so might have that done also.
     
  25. rprice76
    Joined: Jun 4, 2011
    Posts: 441

    rprice76
    Member
    from Palominas

    Greg -

    Sounds like an idea. I had to deal with a broken head bolt on a 1916 Model T once. It sat for - oh about 2 years before I got the gumption to get it done. Heat, and an easy out worked. Sometimes its just better to take it to a machinist to have him fix it (I know - my dad was a machinist - wish I had followed the trade truth to tell).

    You're making great progress!
     
  26. greg
    Joined: Dec 5, 2006
    Posts: 537

    greg
    Member

    I feel I could do it, but dont have a big drill press here.
    I have used an easy out a couple of times sucessfully, but on something rusty, that has already snapped off a 3/8 bolt, I dont think I want to try it. I really dont like to use them if at all possible.
     
  27. peter schmidt
    Joined: Aug 26, 2007
    Posts: 660

    peter schmidt
    Member
    from maryland

    Looking good. I finally got mine out of storage yesterday so happy to be able to work on it finally. Got it washed and most the interior removed. Where did you buy your gastank is it the same as a sedan? Mine didnt come with one. Any way you could do me a favor and measure your rear springs a crackhead stole mine when i had the rear out a couple years ago i need to see if the sedans are the same.
     
  28. greg
    Joined: Dec 5, 2006
    Posts: 537

    greg
    Member

    i can look tonight on the springs and part # on the tank. the wagon tank is different than the car. i have a pic inhere somewhere.
     
  29. peter schmidt
    Joined: Aug 26, 2007
    Posts: 660

    peter schmidt
    Member
    from maryland

  30. oggie59
    Joined: Apr 3, 2012
    Posts: 5

    oggie59
    Member

    Hi! My name is Amber, my husband and I bought a 59 Edsel Villager not to long ago. The other day I was driving it, actually just backing up, and the control arm broke :( Any idea on where I can find one?
    Thanks
     

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