The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Jeff Norwell, Jul 19, 2013.
Jeff, what's the story on those wire hose clamps?
I'm not sure off hand Whizz..... Car is not in front of me.The fella that did the engine, used it. pretty big FE guy..Don Palmer.If it becomes a problem... I can swap out the Pump.I will see what size that nipple actually is.
My pal Rob picked a special tool that makes those wire clips and fasteners in Detroit 2 years back... I will ask him the manufactures name..Home made in the USA!
Small things make me happy.... I misplaced my dealer install heater switch,bezel,knob and delete plate....My pal Tom Drummond from Lockport Ill. had a spare and I got it just it for my dash... thats going back in.... I'm pretty sure these were a standard affair from 49-59Used in trucks and cars).... but since my car was originally a heater delete car... I need it on them frosty mornings to vent the front windshield.(sorry,.I geek out on the small stuff a lot)
I think they were originally a marine application but work on our stuff.
Don't sell the stock shift linkage short... Like Loudbang says, careful tuning will give excellent results. One wear point generally not addressed is the shift pin that engages the levers. You'll find that if that's worn much at all, the linkage can be sloppy. The pin Ford used is just slightly under 1/4" diameter, driving that one out and replacing it with a 1/4" hardened drill rod will improve preciseness of shifting a lot. You may have to clearance the slots in the levers slightly with a file. Very careful fitting of the levers/rod and adjustment will be needed with the tighter tolerances.
Don't drill the hole for the larger rod either. Apply some heat to the lever body, then drive the new pin in. It will help to chamfer the end to get it started. Cut the rod long, it may mushroom on the hammer end and you'll want to cut the chamfer off, then trim it to length with a cut-off wheel, making sure the ends are square with just a light chamfer. Make it as long as possible.
I had Hurst linkage, the OEM after reworking worked better with less effort.
Very nice Jeff. Great looking "sleeper".
Jeff, seeing your heater control brought back memories for me. My first car was a 58 Ford Custom six cylinder. It had the same recirculating air heater and that same control.....pull out for defrost and rotate for the fan speeds (off-low-high). Hot water to the heater unit was controlled by a shutoff valve on the engine. My old Ford was pretty rough but that heater could run you out of the car!
I just found this thread and subscribed.
Well.. summer is over and not much work has progressed.... too busy having fun with my coupe and truck.But we are now back on it.....
All the sheetmetal is near completed and very close to wiring the car......Dash is painted and in.... Gone way overboard as I initially wanted too.. but... there was a ton of hidden rot that needed to be addressed.
EVERY damn piece of sheet metal has been addressed.
Do it now or do it later. You'll also be much happier with the car done the right way rather than cobbled together from cutting corners. Looking great man, this is a KILLER build.
Truer words were never spoken.... So right Joe!..... this car is far worse than the Texas Sunburn(original post car)....Sorry I missed you this past weekend in Jersey....
I am not a Ford man but I would own this car
Well.... the original post was about the 57 I brought home from the Panhandle.... and its been languishing in the corner for a while.
After a long time thinking....I am leaving this car alone.(body wise)I have begun to replace,fix,repair the rolling chassis..... gonna go with another FE..... I have all the parts I need.....So.. in the last month I began.... pulled the rear and rebuilt it....
Bearings,seals...brakes ,etc ,etc.....New HD shocks, New HD spring pack,new insulators and hangers with all rubber replaced.
This car came home with enough red dirt from the panhandle to fill a sandbox.
I call this car the "Texas Sunburn".... the sheet metal is extremely good.. a little rot here and there but 90% sunburnt.
I replaced the One Wheel Peel with a full posi Chunk... 3.50 gear..... the factory was a 3.00.... Not sure of the trans yet... but I'm leaning to a C-6 ...(I have most of what I need for that.)
I'm swapping out the steering for a 58 or 59 unit.... gotta make a decision on front springs.. Moog aerostar or Stockers.....Need to replace all bushings.. which I have A full NOS kit.
As mentioned (for this car) I'm going to another FE.... I do have a nice running 292 Y-Block.... but... an FE is twice the brute and i want to build a copy of a 63 HiPo 390...... I tracked down a factory Aluminum factory and am kinda stoked about it.
As I mentioned.. this tuff ole girl was filled with Red Texas Panhandle dirt...Yes.I wore protective gear..... This was in the very early stages.... dang......
Reliving the Dust Bowl there Jeff!
Jeff, you mentioned starting the wireing part of the build. Are you aware you can get a total as Stock plug and play harness with every color code correct as well as every terminal end installed for all the stock switches. On top of that the Guy will make Kustom Mods for upgrades that are correct for your needs that look stock as well? You can go Headlight to Taillight or get just the section (like under dash) you need. I bought one and laid it out on the floor next to the 3 I had harvested out of parts cars thinking I could make one good one from three (what a Joke). Other than fresh new it was Exact to what I had without all the Age related damage. I would have believed it if I was told it was New Old Stock from Ford. One of the Best moves I made and I've done many universal Kits as well as hand wire jobs. Not this time for me. Money well spent!!
At least now you know where all the holes are
The Aerostar springs were too short for my '59 and I just took the stock springs, acid dipped them clean, lopped off1 entire coil. I feel I could go another 1/2 maybe. My SBC is fairly light with all the aluminum on it, 1 coil with a FE should be good to go.
Looking good Padre.
PnB..... are you speaking of Narragansett wiring?... I would love to get one of there kits.... but.... Its out of reach at the moment.
.... And how!!!!
Well.. got a nice surprise from my Pal Tom the Painter....(now back on the Dirty Bird)
He has painted the front Gravel pan....
sleeper with dual quad 427 FE would be killer.. I borrowed this picture..
......I was wondering about the Support for the Manifold thinking it was a Pizza Box and thought Pizza's going wild...heck even for Car Parts having that is interesting packaging...
She's coming together Jeff...Thanks for sharing the journey...Incredible rides...get out for a ride...Colours are peaking Ottawa way...gotta be close in Palookaville...
I'm a big proponent of the basic American Autowire or Rebel Wire kits. I've used both, they're both great. It's really a luxury having modern fuses and an abundance of circuits to spread the load across. I've never had a wiring issue with shorts or overloading circuits with those kits, and they're really reasonably priced.
Well......Photobucket really----- S U C K S !-------
Went to the opening of the thread and fixed stuff....The screwed up pics...
Can't do anything about others that added to the thread.... sorry.....
Yes Stogy... the colours are starting to go full on here in Palookaville too.Making a burn and turn run this week for family members in the Valley..... spending time here with us.
Yes..Red-redm.. a dual quad 427 would be glorious... but they are waaaay out of the stratosphere for me... Thinking about a 410 stump puller as well... I have a line on one.... but..... we shall see.
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