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Projects My 57 is home

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Jeff Norwell, Jul 19, 2013.

  1. Jeff; Sorry but I seem to have be not getting any of my notifications when post's I follow have new input. Had I been I would have brought up a few things regarding the clutch issues. At first I thought you had the motor mounts installed backwards for the FE and that would make the 3/4" issue with your Block/ball bracket. Honest mistake for some and causes issue with Tripower air filter top and the Hood latch. I looked at my project and can say we both have the mounts installed the same. I'm also very familiar with the cross shaft alignment. It has to be right or things at the pedal get Krazzy. I also know there are several Block brackets that move the Ball placement around as well as Frame side brackets. A mismatched pair or incorrect pair can cause your issue. I also know Ford has several different Clutch bearing forks. Again critical to system to have the right one. It's all about correct leverage. I have never had to put a chicane in the adjuster rod. The adjuster rod should be exactly parallel to crankshaft line. A 60 or latter Bellhousing has the Fork hole moved counter clock thus making the fork lower and makes the adjuster rod travel downhill. I suspect you've delt with all this but to me things just don't look right. As of yet I have not installed any of my Clutch hardware though it's painted and ready. The only photo I have was taken while I was building the Headers. Your Z bar looks to be correct but I'm wondering about your Frame side bracket and throw out fork. I don't think this photo will help much but maybe. Once the Smoke clears and I can get back in the shop I'd be glad to take you photos of the brackets with measurements if you'd like. Note the relationship of the Z bar tube to steering gear and frame bracket to Frame rail side. You can also see the motor mount position in bottom photo.
    Headres 2 002.jpg Headres 2 001.jpg
     
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  2. dave 62 pb
    Joined: Nov 5, 2013
    Posts: 215

    dave 62 pb
    Member

    And there I was thinking I would see another Chevy, 57 Fords are way more stylish and one of my all time favourites
    One of the idols from my youth owned one over here in the UK, the Yorkshire Milner, legend drag racer Dave Grady with his 57 ford High Spirits 760752289ad179563.jpg
    Keep up the good work and keep the photos coming
     
  3. You're making me Jealous man! Looks good.
     
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  4. Jeff Norwell
    Joined: Aug 20, 2003
    Posts: 13,051

    Jeff Norwell
    MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    Wiz..... not sure whats throwing you off, but all my geometry is working well and no bind..... but what I did do is make a better pressure nut against the fork... did not like the 2 lock nuts pressing into the clutch forks divot.... this nut fits into the clutch fork perfectly and has more thread coverage and i believe will be stronger.I also took Marks suggestion and found a return spring and it all is cool(I think I mentioned that earlier) IMG_4148.jpg IMG_4150.jpg IMG_4153.jpg
    I dunno.. if it fails.. we will fix it.Right now, the whole action of the Z-Bar works very well and the clutch catches about 1/4 travel of the pedal as pressure is applied.
    Anyhow.... the grind continues..... wiring is 80% complete...... just need to finish the wiring the turn signals and the dome/courtesy lights....
    Can't finish the wiring until I get my speedo cable and gear.. should be delivered today.... then I can button up the dash .Ordered an extra long one..... My tranny wants a reach around.
    Hahahahaha
    My top loader's speedo location is passenger side..... so.... length is needed.
     
  5. Jeff Norwell
    Joined: Aug 20, 2003
    Posts: 13,051

    Jeff Norwell
    MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    I did get a small jump on the exhaust, ran down to the local boys and had them make me some start tubes..... The most critical part on the exhaust(on this car) is coming off the manifolds and getting out from the underside engine area... its ......T I G H T .I had a old start tube I used as a template.
    So these worked out well...I can swivel them 360... then mark them up... and when I head to the muffler shop.... it will be easier. Not sure if i am going to run a an X-Pipe or just straight duals.But... I will run a real raspy glass pack.... IMG_4155.jpg
     
  6. Jeff Norwell
    Joined: Aug 20, 2003
    Posts: 13,051

    Jeff Norwell
    MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    Failed to mention, the exhaust will be a 2.50 through the car... nothing fancy. and just a reg. exhaust tubing.I had costs for a stainless system... just not in the budget...While i would love it, Standard exhaust is just fine for this car.
     
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  7. Jeff Norwell
    Joined: Aug 20, 2003
    Posts: 13,051

    Jeff Norwell
    MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    Now.... completely turning the table... remember the "other" 57 from Texas?.. the original car I started the thread about?.... well, I made a firm decision on its power plant.I was planing on doing another FE.... but...... the more I thought about it... I am going to use a Y-Block.
    I recently bought 2 Y-Blocks..... one is a 292(pictured) and the other is supposed to be a 312.... but its still in the donor car and until i can pull the engine and examine the main caps and crank flange.... who knows....But I will mess with them and make a nice Y-Block.
    But that B/W 57 will be Y-Block powered..... and possibly a 3 speed OD trans... or (shudder) a later model OD 5 speed.... who knows.... I change my mind daily.

    Please IGNORE the Fram filter..... hahahahaha

    IMG_4060.JPG IMG_4061.JPG IMG_4066.JPG
     
  8. Sky Six
    Joined: Mar 15, 2018
    Posts: 1,515

    Sky Six
    Member
    from Arizona

    292 "Y" block and a 3 speed OD !

    Hot Damn, we're making progress now. :D
     
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  9. Jeff Norwell
    Joined: Aug 20, 2003
    Posts: 13,051

    Jeff Norwell
    MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    I would be amiss if I did not call out a great guy and true Certified Ford Nut. @fordblueblood
    Bill help me tremendously on much of my novice and dumb wiring questions.Bill is a 30 year Navy man,Vietnam vet,gulf war vet and and an all round great guy.
    Bill..thank you for ALL your help.
     
  10.  
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  11. Jeff Norwell
    Joined: Aug 20, 2003
    Posts: 13,051

    Jeff Norwell
    MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    Ahhhhh.....Whizz..... I now understand what you were asking(yes, confusion for me today is not uncommon)
    I have no idea why the side mounted Z-Bar(engine side) did not line up... but conversations with others found a solution.My block is a 66 and Im pretty sure the FE outside configurations never changes... most can't tell if they are looking at a 332 or a 427.
    Any how.... looking at the rod on the tire in you pic,.... mine was not straight.... has a dogleg ,,, and is needed to go around the block to reach the clutch fork.My rod had to be threaded , unlike yours..... Possibly my Clutch Fork is shorter(?).... I am not sure.But I did notice the the Double Jam nuts I made initially .... would have failed soon.... the edges were wearing just after using to test and adjust the whole set up.....I could not find that nut that you have shown.
    Also I used a stock 57 Clutch Pedal rod(from the pedal to the top of the Z bar) where as you have a 59 threaded rod(much better option IMHO)

    Anyhow.... Looking at the headers on your 427 are a work of genius.... So nice..I hope your working on this car.
    Also..I LOVE the fact you have the PROPER tire and tire size on your 57.....Firestone champs 7.10 x 15..... I want a set for my car ..... but I need to get to the bodyshop soon.
     
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  12. I think what I was trying to point out is that just because a person has Ford clutch pieces all connected together don't mean things are going to work correctly. I have over the years had a few come to me wondering why it can take 2 feet to compress the Clutch pedal to the floor and others wonder why with everything New have serious clutch Chatter when releasing the pedal. It has always come down to Linkage/parts or adjustment or combination of both. When everything is correct it's smooth as Butter, if not you may need to have a death grip on the Steering wheel so you can pull yourself forward while pushing on the Pedal. I actually had a guy brake his seat frame from pedal resistance. He just thought it was his Heavy Duty pressure plate.
    I will say this, If your clutch Fork is shorter from fulcrum point to Rod detent you have just increased the pressure it will take to release the clutch. It isn't going to be very user friendly.
    I have managed to spend a little time on my 57 in the last couple months but not nearly enough. Got sidetracked by a fresh motor for the 32. Couldn't help myself. No, it's not ready to drive yet either. The vision of Retirement hasn't come around to me as of yet.
     
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  13. Jeff Norwell
    Joined: Aug 20, 2003
    Posts: 13,051

    Jeff Norwell
    MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    Well. all I can say at this point is that the Pedal travel is like butter.... releases at a 1/4 to 1/2 on pedal travel... no friction whatsoever... but The real test will be when I get it fired.So I will wait until that point.
    I don't think the C-Fork is a short unit.. as a matter a fact I know so..I picked it up at the engine builders place and we discussed this for a while.
    I will wait and see.
     
  14. Jeff Norwell
    Joined: Aug 20, 2003
    Posts: 13,051

    Jeff Norwell
    MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    Well,.. got tired of wiring,... just need to finish the turn signals and a few odds and ends....
    I directed my attention to getting the shifter in order....

    So, I was on the fence of using a Hurst Comp plus,.. great shifter but The idea was still lingering to use a Ford Factory Shifter.Nearly everyone told me to stick with the Hurst,.. but a few Old time Ford men swore you could make these units work with little effort.Of course. that intrigued me.
    On this thread way Back, fellow Hamber mentioned that it was indeed possible @Crazy Steve
    I believe @bobss396 did as well...... anyways.I contacted Steve and he laid out a very detailed plan how to make them work... with little effort on the wallet.(Steve is one helluva guy, tons of positive info and a real contribution here)

    Got the old unit on the bench and applied a liberal amount of Fluid Film and got everything loose and moving.I ordered a Scott Drake shifter kit for a 4 speed thru Summit(cheap) and waited.
    Cleaned all the grime and and everything was working well.... Got it all apart and was in luck. both shifter pinned the main pin on the cross shaft( that holds the levers in place) was in very good shape. no slop,
    Where the slop was the 2 shims that were in the lever pack... were trashed... a brass one had a chunk out of it.
    Measured the thickness of them combined and it was about 24 thou.
    Went down to the local Machine shop and got a few different sizes... I ended up using one shim at 30 thou... Cleaned all parts, greased liberally with white lithium and Fluid film.... and it was back together.. super nice and tight.... not tight at it hard to shift..... just a nice feel.You could move the levers effortlessly with one finger but very little end to end play. Before it had end play like a rocking chair.
    Good.... so far it has cost me $2 bucks.

    On to the shifter Handle.
    This is the man are of concern... these handles(or the whole shifter bodies well) were never ever maintained.. and they became super sloppy and terrible.
    As I mentioned...I picked up a Scott Drake rebuild kit.. and and on the advise of Steve, I discarded the rubber bushings in favour of steel shims....I had a Hurst Pit Pack in stock and the Metal shims fit perfectly.I needed to turn the ends down about an 1/8....I also discarded the new should bolts.... The originals were in very good shape.... I don't trust Chinese products.I did use the new Trunnions and springs. The originals in my shifter were wrong.... they were for a 3 speed.(worn out and way to small)
    I had to turn the shoulder bolts down 10 thou... to pass thru the Hurst shims.Another 10 bucks and 30 minutes later at the machine shop.... I was in business.
    Assembled all, cleaned all the rods and trans tabs, using fresh washers and the Hurst Pit Pack Clips.... all went together easy.
    The shifter and body works flawlessly... positive shifts..no slop and all very nice and tight.

    I do have a complete Hurst Comp Plus shifter unit.... but it was a major pain getting all the components during these Covid times... and to my surprise... a lot of the parts i needed are now discontinued.But after 4-6 months I have a complete Hurst from top to bottom and if my efforts fail..I have a back up.

    I am just pretty stubborn on trying to use as much Ford stuff as possible.


    1.JPG 2.JPG 3.JPG 4.JPG 5.JPG 6.JPG 7.JPG 8.JPG 8A.JPG 9.JPG 10.JPG 11.JPG 12.JPG 13.JPG 15.JPG
     
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  15. Jeff Norwell
    Joined: Aug 20, 2003
    Posts: 13,051

    Jeff Norwell
    MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    Oh yea. the total cost was around $65 bucks to get this going. hahahahah
     
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  16. Flatrod17
    Joined: Apr 25, 2017
    Posts: 56

    Flatrod17
    Member

    I like the Ford shifters, and have replaced many Hurst shifters with them! Your rebuild plan is good and I think you will be happy with it!!
     
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  17. RmK57
    Joined: Dec 31, 2008
    Posts: 1,590

    RmK57
    Member

    I like the reverse lock-out feature on factory Ford shifter along with the woodgrain shift knob they look pretty sharp.
     
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  18. Looks good!
    Only problem I ever had with a Ford shifter was the first wife breaking the handle off where the cast base bolts to the shifter... Thankfully the Ford dealership two blocks away had a handle in stock that would work.
     
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  19. Jeff Norwell
    Joined: Aug 20, 2003
    Posts: 13,051

    Jeff Norwell
    MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    Well guess what....... that did NOT work at all!
    Worked well on the bench, but installed, the unit bound in between 3rd and 4th..... After installing and removing,dismantling about 5 times.... I nearly threw that F**king POS through a plate glass window.

    So Scratch all that shit above.ugh.

    I grabbed the Hurst Comp plus and all went swell in 40 minutes.
    FML.


    Well..been wiring as much as possible and about 90% done
    I have signals left and the brake switch.
    To be totally honest and Frank.... This Covid Bull**** is taking a toll...... work is completely different.... harder to get, lost my stepfather in this mess,some of my friends have lost their family members..... Very strange and difficult times.

    But.. gotta keep moving forward.

    Want to thank a superior fantastic member..Bill(Ford Blue Blood)
    Bill really helped me a -T O N- through the wiring .....answered my very novice and idiotic questions... he is a very fine gentleman.
    (Yes Bill, the fire dept is STILL standing by......)

    Anyhow... getting the will or inspiration in the last 2 months has been very difficult.
    NjH0w6c.jpg
     
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