If the PO was right and it just had 300 miles on rebuild . It is seized tight. Keep on soaking and stay after it. One trick used on old seized tractor engines is to fill the cylinder up with Diesel . Let it soak a few days. Put a rag in the cylinder for a wick and light it. The heat produced by the burning diesel will make the cylinder walls expand . Then when it cools down braking any rust loose . But a V8 inside a engine bay that would not be a good thing. So try a nonflammable heat source .
Thanks for the idea Pete, never heard that one. I'm gonna pull the motor almost certainly. I've heard differing things about externally heating a cast iron block, just have to see what happens, what works.
Okie Pete is right in that fresh rebuilds are bad about seizing up if allowed to sit for extended periods of time. That's simply due to tighter clearances on everything and not much oil between the parts. Well worn engines typically have excess oil sitting everywhere which will have them able to turn over even after years of sitting. You've put the oil in the cylinders but have you tried pressurizing each cylinder with air? That will force the lube you've squirted into the cylinders around the pistons and potentially help free that engine up. I've had the air trick work when all else failed short of tearing the engine apart. Removing the rocker arms will help to pressurize the cylinders quicker.
I wish. Bought the running (on 7 cylinders) 292 from the pickup pictured earlier.Bad exhaust valve. Oh well. I get the radiator, tranny, extra single vacuum dizzy, original valve covers and air cleaner. Still moving into our new house and unfortunately, that takes priority.She did pick up a friend along the way though...
If you do gut the interior from that Town Sedan, be very careful not to damage the door panel stainless. It's all Town Sedan specific and even if you don't use it, it's very valuable, I got a small fortune for a set I bought at a junkyard a couple years ago. Glad to see it's at least safe and dry.
Long time, no post. Had to fight through a torn meniscus, but back after it. BTW- None of the "special sauces" worked. Take a look at #7 and you'll see why- Cleaned all that crap out and put a little bit more tranny fluid in there and let it soak. May do a little tapping on that piston tomorrow. I have a hone if the walls are rusted at all... Pulling the other head tomorrow too.
I've torn the menisci in both my knees and had 3 surgeries over 10 years ago. I kept getting tears. After the surgeon said I'd need a 4th surgery, I said forget it, I'm keeping what's left and they haven torn anymore. My knees don't bother me any worse than they did before the first surgery.
Bomb - the reason my meniscus is messed up is because I ruptured my quadriceps tendon in my other leg a year and a half ago. DON'T EVER DO THAT!!!!!!! The year it took me to get that leg back up to strength kind of overloaded my "good" knee. To fix the quad tendon, they slice you open like a knee replacement incision, suture the tendon back together, drill three holes through your kneecap and tie the sutures off to the bottom side of the kneecap..... but I digress....
My Dad says, if you're gonna be dumb, you gotta be tough! Got the damn engine to turn a little. Looks like the #7 cylinder was the only one that was in really bad shape.. Most of the rust just fell into the cylinder from the exhaust manifold. I can see where the rings were sitting before. Once I get #7 rotated all the way down, I'll hone it out and see what the wall looks like. Haven't snapped any rings...yet....
I was wondering why I haven't seen any updates on your car then I saw your CL ad today. Please don't say you've given up.
The number 7 cylinder is trashed, as are the heads. Needs a new engine and floorpans, brakes, interior, paint, you name it. I'm concentrating all my efforts on my 50 Fordor. I'll make you a hell of a deal if you want it.
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