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Projects My '55 Effie

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by grovedawg, Dec 8, 2009.

  1. Ford Guy
    Joined: Jan 9, 2010
    Posts: 53

    Ford Guy
    Member

    Just get monoleaf springs with reversed eyes and it's an easy 3-4" drop with no alignment issues. I did this on my 52 and it worked great.
     
  2. bikeguydave
    Joined: Aug 16, 2009
    Posts: 226

    bikeguydave
    Member
    from Kentucky

    Nice project grovedawg, I've got a similar project/s, 51 F-2 and 51 F-3, I've also learned a lot about these trucks in the process, could have told you about the button on the light switch that removes the shaft for instance, if I can help with anything don't hesitate to ask...and good luck!, keep us posted on the progress, and build it like YOU want to. Dave
     
  3. grovedawg
    Joined: Oct 20, 2009
    Posts: 451

    grovedawg
    Member
    from Heber, UT

    So where is the button that releases the knob on that little f@#*er!?
     
  4. bikeguydave
    Joined: Aug 16, 2009
    Posts: 226

    bikeguydave
    Member
    from Kentucky

    On the bottom of the housing at the back, it's got a little spring around the shaft, push..wiggle... pull the shaft straight out
     
  5. SG Kage
    Joined: Dec 14, 2009
    Posts: 5

    SG Kage
    Member
    from Boise

    I guess some of that gray hair comes with experience. Crazy kid just starts cutting and asking questions later. Pfft. Noob.

    BTW, Love the pictures. Keep them coming!
     

  6. Noob, says the guy with 2 posts under his belt. :D
     
  7. grovedawg
    Joined: Oct 20, 2009
    Posts: 451

    grovedawg
    Member
    from Heber, UT

    I've spent a little more time this weekend completely-completely taking apart my front clip. I took all of the parts down to the sandblaster, and picked up the cab. I'm just OK with the work that he did. He didn't sandblast/epoxy prime the space behind the floorboards where it forms a rail in front of the rear part of the cab lowers. I don't know if that make sense, but it's the pocket, rail right below where the back of the bench seat will be. I'll post pics of that later.

    But, here are some pics of the engine being pulled. We got the transmission seperated, and both heads off. I was able to pull the rocker arm assemblies apart. If you look at another thread I started, you'll find that I was impatiently waiting for some help with the rocker arm posts, and found some. :) Thanks again Jalopy heads.

    But, enjoy the pics. I'll be starting body work and modifications soon, so it'll be more enjoyable.
     
  8. grovedawg
    Joined: Oct 20, 2009
    Posts: 451

    grovedawg
    Member
    from Heber, UT

    Here are the pics. Don't know why they didn't attach the first time around.
     

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  9. grovedawg
    Joined: Oct 20, 2009
    Posts: 451

    grovedawg
    Member
    from Heber, UT

    Big thanks to my bro in law and dad for their help.
     

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  10. 35desoto
    Joined: Oct 6, 2009
    Posts: 761

    35desoto
    Member

    My .02c says leave it as a Y block - adds to the nostalgia, great engines that can be tuned for a but extra and just plain cooler than the later stuff!! ( And Im a Mopar fan)
    Grew up on a farm that had a 55 effie as a farm hack - couldn't kill the engine but the brakes would always fade, roof rotted off from too much hay and fertilizer getting into the drip rail - had many an experiece learning how to drive - normally sideways trying to stop before hitting a fence post and getting my gramps angry!!!
    Learnt quickly and learnt how to smile and not crack up when questioned by the ol fella as how come the wheels were so dirty
     
  11. MichiganJames
    Joined: Dec 20, 2009
    Posts: 36

    MichiganJames
    Member

    So how well did lifting the cab like that work? I have been super worried about my cab flexing doing it like that?
    Looks like its coming along great.
     
  12. grovedawg
    Joined: Oct 20, 2009
    Posts: 451

    grovedawg
    Member
    from Heber, UT

    Works like a charm! We had no idea how heavy the cab was, and so rather than my dad and I trying to lift it, we rigged the Kubota up and it was perfect. Once it was on the trailer we gave it a lift, and it's actually not heavy at all. Two dudes should be able to lift it no problema! But, the more the merrier. And if you've got a tractor- WHY THE EFF NOT?
     
  13. grovedawg
    Joined: Oct 20, 2009
    Posts: 451

    grovedawg
    Member
    from Heber, UT

    Here are some pics of the cab corners. I've found a couple of places that sells replacement cab lowers. Sacramento Vintage has some good deals, along with LMC. Anyone purchase from either of the places? Better luck somewhere else?
     

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  14. rdemilt
    Joined: Jan 12, 2009
    Posts: 134

    rdemilt
    Member
    from so florida

    I have purchased from LMC, I was happy with the product a
    ( window regulator ) and service. Shipping to me was quick, ( Florida ). Prior to that I always used Mid-Fiftys for the quality of their products, plus you cannot beat the knowledge of the staff, but for me shipping from Mid Fifty takes longer and I think they charge 10% of the complete order price for shipping excluding some freight items. I found that to add up to some expensive shipping costs when I ordered $700.00 worth of parts and paid $70.00 for shipping 1 box of light weight misc. stuff.
     
  15. saratoga56
    Joined: Jul 24, 2008
    Posts: 67

    saratoga56
    Member
    from NY

    Looks like you are having fun. Always glad to see a young guy like me salvage an ol' effie. I rebuilt the entire bottom half of my cab, replaced the firewall (someone pushed it in about 8 inches to house a 454) with stock one. Let me know if you have any questions replacing those parts.

    Cheers.
     
  16. grovedawg
    Joined: Oct 20, 2009
    Posts: 451

    grovedawg
    Member
    from Heber, UT

    Been on a little hiatus. I ordered my parts from Sacramento and they had the front cowl repair panels for both sides and only the left rear cab lower. So I ordered the right cab lower from LMC the same day. They both got to my place that week, but LMC was one day later. Good job from both teams. I'm so amped to get my cab buttoned up. I'll post some pics through the week as I cut and weld the bugger up.
     
  17. Erik B
    Joined: Sep 4, 2006
    Posts: 1,923

    Erik B
    Member

    I'm patching up the front corners right now. One side I made the patch and the other side was a stamping from Sac Vintage. The stamped part was not as sharp a bend going into the door jamb as the original is. Looks like I'll need to weld a strip piece on top to get the same door gaps.

    I've got a 54 and have most of the front end ready for final prime. Luckily not much rust. I was originally the same dark green as yours. The previous owner took out a lot of leafs on the front spring so I'm thinking of replacing them with some lower monoleafs. Anybody else want to chime in or spring conversions?

    Looks like you have a good start going. Keep posting! -Erik
     
  18. Erik B
    Joined: Sep 4, 2006
    Posts: 1,923

    Erik B
    Member

    Here is a couple of shots of the patch panels. The left side I fabbed and the right (black) is the stamped replacement. I still have some fine fitting to do before I weld. Hope this helps.
     

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  19. Ravenwood
    Joined: Feb 26, 2009
    Posts: 237

    Ravenwood
    Member
    from Texas

    35DeSoto wrote, "Grew up on a farm that had a 55 effie as a farm hack - couldn't kill the engine but the brakes would always fade, roof rotted off from too much hay and fertilizer getting into the drip rail - had many an experiece learning how to drive - normally sideways trying to stop before hitting a fence post and getting my gramps angry!!!
    Learnt quickly and learnt how to smile and not crack up when questioned by the ol fella as how come the wheels were so dirty"

    35DeSoto, if the gentleman is still living, you need to retell this when you see him at Thanksgiving/Christmas family get-to-gethers. It would mean the world to him. If you've lost him, you need to retell it to the rest of the family... priceless.
     
  20. 35desoto
    Joined: Oct 6, 2009
    Posts: 761

    35desoto
    Member

    Ravenwood
    Thanks and unfortunately Grandad is no longer with us however it always brings a smile to my face whan i think of the things we got up to in his ol vehicles
    He had a brand new 54 Customline that rotted away on the farm and that one could climb hills in top gear and just keep chuggin along. He used to get his farm dogs ride in the boot - mind you it was only ever the top dogs - no riff raff in his vehicles
    Thats another tale too and I'd be guilty of hijacking this thread if i kept going
     
  21. grovedawg
    Joined: Oct 20, 2009
    Posts: 451

    grovedawg
    Member
    from Heber, UT

    RAVENWOOD AND 35DESOTO! I love hearing stories like that. Wish I could've been there to see you piling it up into the fence post! I sure did a little damage behind the wheel when I was a little pup!
     
  22. grovedawg
    Joined: Oct 20, 2009
    Posts: 451

    grovedawg
    Member
    from Heber, UT

    Cab Corner number 1? Ha ha ha! I love that I have no experience with anything, other than motorcycle engines and the balls (or lack of brains) to try anything. I literally am learning how to weld on this cab!!!! :) It's a mig - get it close to the metal and pull the trigger right? Easy enough....

    Well, so I've got some pics of the progress on the passenger side cab. I figured it was the one part that I'd see least, as it on the wrong side, and is partially covered by the truck box too!

    I got everything cut out. Confucious say, he who cut first ask question latter end up with something.... or other, that really wouldn't fit into a chineese saying about wisdom anyway!!!! But, patience was the key. Then I started welding. They weren't kiddin when they say to let it cool. ALOT. between welds. So here are the pics.

    Let the newb beatings begin. ;)
     

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  23. grovedawg
    Joined: Oct 20, 2009
    Posts: 451

    grovedawg
    Member
    from Heber, UT

    So, my question is about the weld now. I've got it on super low heat, and a good speed. I really can't do anything other than shoot for a second or two before it punches a hole in the metal. So, I've basically been doing this little modified spot welding technique, where I zap it and create a good puddle, hope there's penetration, and shut her down before she kicks a little whole around the puddle.

    You can see from the pic, the backside still has a seem where it's butt welded. I don't know if I've got enough penetration on the thin sheet metal to really do the job right. But, I'm getting it hot enough that it's warped in at the seam. I figure I can use a little filler and smudge that warping a little. Or, be more patient and weld a little hotter. Check out the pics above, and this one again and let me know what you fellars think.
     

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  24. fab32
    Joined: May 14, 2002
    Posts: 13,987

    fab32
    Member Emeritus

    Good start on your PU. Keep posting the progress.

    Frank
     
  25. grovedawg
    Joined: Oct 20, 2009
    Posts: 451

    grovedawg
    Member
    from Heber, UT

    Any help on the weld? Should I have left a little bit of a larger gap between the butt?
     
  26. uc4me
    Joined: Feb 3, 2006
    Posts: 516

    uc4me
    Member

    I am no welding expert by any means but it looks to me like you might want to try slowing the wire speed and hold the tip of the gun a little closer to the piece you are welding.

    I wish I took some pics of the work I am doing now, I just welded over the stake holes in the box of my 55, I could have shown you the technique that works well for me.

    I have a lincoln SP135 mig (110V), with shielding gas and am using .032 wire. I have the current set at "d" (the highest setting) and my wire speed somewhere just north of 3.
    I do the same thing that you mentioned as far as spotting a small weld as opposed to running a bead, then move to another area of the repair and spot there, then alternate between them to keep the warpage down.

    hope this is helpful

    also... try to avoid having 90 degree angles on the corners of your patch pieces meet, the heat on both sides can really warp the metal, I always try to round the corners before I weld 'em up
     
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2010
  27. bigd4xman
    Joined: Feb 4, 2007
    Posts: 740

    bigd4xman
    Member

    Have fun with it, and leave the Y Block in it, there are still allot of parts available for it. I still kick myself for letting go of my original 223 inline instead of rebuilding it, same for my original front and rear axles.
     
  28. rdemilt
    Joined: Jan 12, 2009
    Posts: 134

    rdemilt
    Member
    from so florida

    I find it best to have my cuts as close as possible on most situations. That being said I have been known to overlap the panels in some situations too. I always weld the panel with a few small spot welds and test the fit, If it looks, good i'll continue making small spots until i have a solid attachment starting at one end then the other, back and forth until it's solid, to keep the heat down. But i've also been known to weld it like a mad man and warp the hell out of it too.

    Rick
     
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2010
  29. grovedawg
    Joined: Oct 20, 2009
    Posts: 451

    grovedawg
    Member
    from Heber, UT

    I got a little bit better on the second corner I replaced. I took these pics with my iPhone. I'll post some better ones soon. It was fun fabing the pieces to back up the inside of the cab corner, and a little piece to patch around the gas tank hole (whatever the heck that lil' do-hickie-thing-a-ma-bobber is). Check it out.
     

    Attached Files:

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