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Projects My 52-54 victoria build

Discussion in 'Traditional Customs' started by voodookustoms, Apr 3, 2015.

  1. flamingokid
    Joined: Jan 5, 2005
    Posts: 2,200

    flamingokid
    Member

    You're not that far off from the finish line.You'll have to take us on a video drive when it's ready.The engine bay looks killer,too!
     
    voodookustoms likes this.
  2. Thanks. I found it on eBay. Some guy casts them in his garage from what I read. I couldn't find the link where I got it from though.
     
    Dos Cincos likes this.
  3. Thanks. Ya I'll be getting some video footage for sure.
    I've been thinking about ditching some of the finned items. The valve cover fins don't match the size and depth of the air cleaner or breathers. Or maybe I'll just find some deep finned valve covers that will match closer? It really bugs me though every time I look at it now it jumps out at me.
     
    flamingokid likes this.
  4. flamingokid
    Joined: Jan 5, 2005
    Posts: 2,200

    flamingokid
    Member

    Maybe in person,but from the pics,they look fine.You could always find better ones later....
     
    voodookustoms likes this.
  5. Peanut 1959
    Joined: Oct 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,013

    Peanut 1959
    Member

    Given the choice, I'd find rocker covers with deeper fins.

    Sent from my LG-H810 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    voodookustoms likes this.
  6. Johnboy34
    Joined: Jul 12, 2011
    Posts: 1,354

    Johnboy34
    Member
    from Seattle,Wa

    The old Cal Custom covers have deep fins.
     
  7. Man, you're engine bay is looking awesome
     
    voodookustoms likes this.
  8. EnfadosoS
    Joined: Nov 28, 2010
    Posts: 89

    EnfadosoS
    Member

  9. Thanks guys. I ordered some cal custom valve covers.
    I'm not sure what I did, but after I hooked up my alternator, tach and routed the wires through the wheel well, the engine runs really rough and would backfire when I gave it gas. It sounded like it was running on 7 cylinders or was firing in the wrong order. What could that be? It was running smooth when I first hooked it up.
     
  10. One thing I just noticed, my coil is only reading 6volts on my amp meter. I'm using a 1.2ohm resistor wire like the flamethrower coil specified. Does that sound correct? Just trying to narrow down the problem.
     
  11. ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1463271866.004840.jpg
    I made a lot of progress today. I got the fenders, splash apron and bumper installed.
    Also, this may be good to know for those of you running Aerostar springs and dropped spindles; with the y block and ford-o-matic the springs and spindles had it sitting perfect. But after installing the 302 and t5 I gained 1 1/2" back up. So, I cut 3/4 of a coil from the aerostars and now it sits 1/2" lower than it did before, which is perfect to me. I can't wait to get this thing outside. I think I got the stance nailed. I also pulled another large leaf spring and added back a few smaller ones I had previously removed and got down another 1/2" out back.
     
    flamingokid likes this.
  12. flamingokid
    Joined: Jan 5, 2005
    Posts: 2,200

    flamingokid
    Member

    Have you figured out the miss yet?
     
  13. 56longroof
    Joined: Aug 1, 2011
    Posts: 2,095

    56longroof
    Member

    I had the same problem recently. I wired the coil like it was from the factory through a ballast resistor . Car ran like shit. Removed the resistor and car fired up and ran like a top. Took some head scratching to figure it out. Car is looking great by the way.

    Sent from my SM-G900R4 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  14. Truck64
    Joined: Oct 18, 2015
    Posts: 4,236

    Truck64
    Member
    from Ioway

    Which Flamethrower coil? The 1.5 ohm coil is normally ran without a ballast of any kind afaik. The idea though is to keep the current running through Ignitor below 8 amps. Voltage sounds low to me.
     
    voodookustoms likes this.
  15. Thanks for the tips. I'm using the flamethrower 2. 1.5ohm I think. I'll try hooking it up without the resister wire and see what happens.
     
  16. Truck64
    Joined: Oct 18, 2015
    Posts: 4,236

    Truck64
    Member
    from Ioway

    No, the #2 coil is a 0.6 ohm coil and meant for use with their capacitive discharge systems. Maybe that's what you have, I dunno. This should be no problem without a ballast in this instance?

    At the risk of sounding like I know what I'm talking about, this will however cause trouble with their regular Ignitor system.

    14.5 volts / 0.6 ohms = waaay too much current. Nominally 24 amps, but a coil isn't "On" all the time. Still probably something like 15 amps continuous. This is a no-no.
     
    Rob Jones likes this.
  17. Sorry a lot of this is foreign to me. I don't know what a capacitive discharge is.
    As long as I don't blow anything up by removing the resister is all I care about haha. The engine ran great at the machine shop when it was connected to the machine.
    It makes sense to me that low voltage to the coil would make it hard to start, run rough at low rpm's and sputter and backfire when given throttle, which are all things that it's doing.
     
  18. 56longroof
    Joined: Aug 1, 2011
    Posts: 2,095

    56longroof
    Member

    I removed the resistor and it was like magic how well my engine ran. I have the MSD ready to run dizzy and coil on my y block. I found out that the coil needs a full 12 volts to operate the module in the dizzy.
     
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  19. Truck64
    Joined: Oct 18, 2015
    Posts: 4,236

    Truck64
    Member
    from Ioway

    Yeah, OK. Figured it was along those lines. Their instructions have to cover different products and different configurations whether peeps are using stock coils, aftermarket coils, points versus module, ballast resistor, no ballast resistor etc.
     
    voodookustoms likes this.
  20. Thanks guys. I'll try removing the resister when I get home and see what happens.
     
  21. 56longroof
    Joined: Aug 1, 2011
    Posts: 2,095

    56longroof
    Member

    I wouldn't worry about blowing anything up. Trust me I'm no electronic guru by any means but it wasn't too difficult. I removed the wrap on the wiring harness on my firewall and traced the wires down that were on the resistor. Only two. One to the I terminal on the solenoid and the ignition wire on the ignition switch. The I terminal wire is for starting and supplies 12 volts to the + side of coil for starting. After starting the voltage drops and the wire from the ignition switch takes over and gives 12 volts to the + side of the coil.
     
  22. I haven't gotten around to messing with the engine. Still waiting for the radiator and the carb to be rebuilt.
    But in the meantime I got my air shock compressor installed. Eventually I'll cover the spare tire well with some 1/2" plywood and insulation since it is so loud, but it works good. I'll also build a consul that will hide the gauge and switches between the seats. I have 3" of adjustability now in about 30 seconds. ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1464141248.402591.jpg
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1464141262.555512.jpg
     
    RockinRivi and flamingokid like this.
  23. steinauge
    Joined: Feb 28, 2014
    Posts: 1,507

    steinauge
    Member
    from 1960

    Car is looking really good!
     
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  24. flamingokid
    Joined: Jan 5, 2005
    Posts: 2,200

    flamingokid
    Member

    On our 49 Ford,I used the console out of a '95 to '99 Buick Riviera rather than build one.There's a lot of real estate to mount gauges and it looks great.
     
    voodookustoms likes this.
  25. Nice build!
    I may have missed it but did you mention what the T5 is out of? I'm looking at putting a Mustang T5 in my '57 Ranchero and I'm wondering if the shifter will land in a decent place.
    I realize these are different cars but I would think close enough as far as shifter location goes.
     
    voodookustoms likes this.
  26. That's a good idea. I was actually thinking about searching junkyards for something that would work. Though, my dad is an upholsterer so making one isn't too out of the ordinary for us.
     
    flamingokid likes this.
  27. Thanks. Unfortunately I'm not sure what the trans is from. It was bolted up to a 93 mustang 5.0 H0 engine, so I assumed it was from the same car. It should have been a WC trans. But when it was being rebuilt, we found out it was a non WC, but everything in it was brand new. So theres a bit more mystery to my build now.
     
    Bondo Slinger likes this.
  28. flamingokid
    Joined: Jan 5, 2005
    Posts: 2,200

    flamingokid
    Member

    Some guys have all the luck ;)
     
    voodookustoms likes this.
  29. ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1464505528.894184.jpg
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1464505539.325739.jpg
    I spent some time getting a few more details done since my radiator still isn't ready.
     
  30. flamingokid
    Joined: Jan 5, 2005
    Posts: 2,200

    flamingokid
    Member

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