Register now to get rid of these ads!

Projects My '50 2-door Chevy Deluxe build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 1sik38coupe, Jan 23, 2013.

  1. 1sik38coupe
    Joined: Nov 4, 2007
    Posts: 133

    1sik38coupe
    Member
    from Las Vegas

    Thanks I went through your build and the car looks great!! Can you post a few more pics of the tranny cross member, that's kinda what I was thinking about making for mine.
     
  2. 1sik38coupe
    Joined: Nov 4, 2007
    Posts: 133

    1sik38coupe
    Member
    from Las Vegas

    BrerHair, It's funny that you posted that about the dryer hook up. I put in a gas dryer this weekend, luckily most of the houses here built in the last 15 years or so have both gas and electric hook ups put in, so I didn't have to run any gas lines, just buy a coupler and connect it! Now I just have to put an outlet in on the garage side and rewire it.
     
  3. 1sik38coupe
    Joined: Nov 4, 2007
    Posts: 133

    1sik38coupe
    Member
    from Las Vegas


    Man, that chop looks great!!! So when can you come to Vegas and do mine?
     
  4. BrerHair
    Joined: Jan 30, 2007
    Posts: 5,009

    BrerHair
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Serendipitous.
     
  5. 1sik38coupe
    Joined: Nov 4, 2007
    Posts: 133

    1sik38coupe
    Member
    from Las Vegas

    I got my car moved over to the new house, unfortunatley she has to sit on the driveway for a week or two until I can organize the garage and make room.

    In the meantime I want to start ordering some of the parts I'll need when I can get back to workin on her. I have been looking at brake systems and was wondering if anyone has used the frame mounted system like pictured below, instead of the firewall mounted type. And what, if any, pros and cons there are to one over the other. :confused:
     

    Attached Files:

  6. Finnrodder
    Joined: Oct 18, 2009
    Posts: 2,970

    Finnrodder
    Member
    from Finland

    I used that style unit,but i guess thats a different story because i used it with my shoebox project.
    I dont know how well they are designed to fit in Chevies,but it was a pain in the ass with my project.I had to modify it to get it fitted,one reason was that the brake pedal was too close that spot where the gas pedal is supposed to be.
    But like i said,if it fits without any bigger mods,go for it.
     
  7. 1sik38coupe
    Joined: Nov 4, 2007
    Posts: 133

    1sik38coupe
    Member
    from Las Vegas

    Thanks for the info Finn, I think it's awesome that my build thread has made it to Finland!
    I hope I get some more input about the brakes I don't want to by something only to remove it later and buy something else.
     
  8. Driveway builder
    Joined: Jan 17, 2013
    Posts: 588

    Driveway builder
    Member

    Nice ride! Just my opinion, but I have the same car as you and I just put a duel master cylinder from speedway with plain old wheel brakes. It stops fine and is very cheap and simple. I also just choped mine last month... it wasn't bad at all. I so wished I did it from the start. I had the car on the road for the last 5 yrs... It just looks so much more bad ass with a chop. Check out my "52 chevy chop" thread and you'll see the difference.
     
  9. 1sik38coupe
    Joined: Nov 4, 2007
    Posts: 133

    1sik38coupe
    Member
    from Las Vegas

    Thanks Driveway, so did you mount your master on the firewall or the frame? I'm leaning towards the firewall mount right now, seems like there's more room and it'll be easier to get to.

    BTW, you're chop looks great.
     
  10. BrerHair
    Joined: Jan 30, 2007
    Posts: 5,009

    BrerHair
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Much easier to service (add fluid) on the firewall, and less parts needed. When master cylinder is mounted below the level of the calipers, then you need two residual valves (1 fr, 1 rear) to keep the fluid from flowing from the calipers back to the cylinder.

    Personally, I never understood the need to get the MC off the firewall, unless it's a show car. It's a fucking car, right?
     
    Jim the Sweep likes this.
  11. Driveway builder
    Joined: Jan 17, 2013
    Posts: 588

    Driveway builder
    Member

    thanks... and yea I got the bracket setup that goes on the frame. it was really easy, and cheap. I just had to make a small 4"x 4" acess door in the floor under the rug for future fluid fills.
     
  12. BadLuck
    Joined: Jan 7, 2006
    Posts: 3,055

    BadLuck
    Member

    You're making great progress.. lookin good, thanks for giving me another build thread to follow :)
     
  13. 1sik38coupe
    Joined: Nov 4, 2007
    Posts: 133

    1sik38coupe
    Member
    from Las Vegas

    Yeah BrerHair, I agree. The only reason I was considering the frame mount was so I wouldn't have to change to a hang pedal. I was hoping to keep most of the interior looking stock.
     
  14. 1sik38coupe
    Joined: Nov 4, 2007
    Posts: 133

    1sik38coupe
    Member
    from Las Vegas

    Thanks a lot, man. Started trying to shuffle stuff around in the garage last nite. Didn't make much progress, though. Planning on removing the firewall "fins" this weekend. Should have an update n new pics by Monday.
     
  15. Lowrders
    Joined: Sep 10, 2009
    Posts: 303

    Lowrders
    Member
    from DUBUQUE IA

    Looks good! I can't believe how much you got done in a couple weeks beings you were prepping for a move and a recent devorce! GL at the new place!
     
  16. Keep up the good work!
     
  17. 1sik38coupe
    Joined: Nov 4, 2007
    Posts: 133

    1sik38coupe
    Member
    from Las Vegas

    Thanks! I need something to keep me from being pissed and bitter so this is a great project to funnel all that negative energy into something positive! Dude, you're build is amazing! I wish I had half the fab skills you've got!

    Thanks brother I appreciate the encouragement.
     
  18. 1sik38coupe
    Joined: Nov 4, 2007
    Posts: 133

    1sik38coupe
    Member
    from Las Vegas

    So I haven't gotten much done but I at least want to post some progress. Here is my baby's new home, and where she has to live till I can get organized and make room:
     

    Attached Files:

  19. 1sik38coupe
    Joined: Nov 4, 2007
    Posts: 133

    1sik38coupe
    Member
    from Las Vegas

    I did get the firewall fins removed this past Friday. I'm gonna post this because I had no idea this needed to be done in order to fit a V-8 into the car, and maybe it'll help a newbie like me later on. Besides I don't have anything else cool to show right now.

    The fins run down the firewall from the top edge to where the front body section mounts to the frame. Since I was only using a hammer and chisel, I found it was easier to make several cuts, using a 4" cutting wheel, in the fin perpendicular to the firewall. Then remove it in sections. This was especially helpfull near the bottom where the fin was attached on two surfaces. Once I got it pulled back away from the firewall at the top, I was able to break several of the spot welds by hand.

    I know it looks a bit messy right now. Once I start on the body work, i'll plug weld the holes and straighten the metal the best I can. Here's a few pics:
     

    Attached Files:

  20. BrerHair
    Joined: Jan 30, 2007
    Posts: 5,009

    BrerHair
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Gotta lose those fins. Too bad the car won't fit in!
     
  21. 49ratfink
    Joined: Feb 8, 2004
    Posts: 18,847

    49ratfink
    Member
    from California

    for future reference if you get a spotweld cutter you don't have any holes to weld up or new dents to fix in your firewll when you remove those fins. the spotweld cutter only cuts the fin, and leaves the firewall alone (mostly)
     
  22. 1sik38coupe
    Joined: Nov 4, 2007
    Posts: 133

    1sik38coupe
    Member
    from Las Vegas


    Thanks, I'll keep that in mind, I'm sure I'll have other spot welds to cut at some point.
     
  23. 1sik38coupe
    Joined: Nov 4, 2007
    Posts: 133

    1sik38coupe
    Member
    from Las Vegas

    Haven't gotten anything done with the car but I am making progress in the garage. Put in a 220 outlet for my welder and hung some shop lights. Also I got the NV title back for the car. All I had was the original from the first owner and it was a CO title. I thought the DMV was gonna give me trouble but luckily all I had to do was get a VIN inspection. So now the car is officially and legally mine!!!!

    I can't wait to get back to work on her!
     
  24. chevy54man
    Joined: Feb 7, 2013
    Posts: 1,683

    chevy54man
    Member
    from NC

    Great ol Chevy you're working on and love what you're doing to her!
     
  25. 1sik38coupe
    Joined: Nov 4, 2007
    Posts: 133

    1sik38coupe
    Member
    from Las Vegas

    Thanks ChevyMan. Got some work done this weekend. I cut out the stock trans cross member, fit the motor and trans in, tack welded in the motor mounts, then pulled it back out and welded them in good. Now I can get to work on taking the body off and stripping down and painting the frame.
     

    Attached Files:

  26. 1sik38coupe
    Joined: Nov 4, 2007
    Posts: 133

    1sik38coupe
    Member
    from Las Vegas

    Here's a few more pics of the before and after on the trans cross member. Also there was a bracket that I had to cut off on the driver's side frame rail. I think it was part of the original gas pedal linkage. And one of the motor mounts.
     

    Attached Files:

  27. 1sik38coupe
    Joined: Nov 4, 2007
    Posts: 133

    1sik38coupe
    Member
    from Las Vegas

    I took the engine to the machine shop yesterday to have it gone through. Hopefully I'll have an idea of what shape it's in by the end of next week.

    In the meantime, I need some help here, some real no sh*! advice. Again this is the first time I am building a car and I don't have alot of experience with this. I need serious pros and cons to support your answer.

    I have two transmissions right now, one is a THM375, the other a THM400. I am trying to figure out which one will be better to use in my build. I want to be able to drive the car on the freeway at speeds of 70-85 mph without red lining the engine. I know a 700R4 would probably be best but I don't have one. And I am hoping to save money by using what I already have.

    The 375 probably needs a rebuild because the tail shaft has about 1/4 in of play in it. From what I have researched they are both three speeds, the 400 is a heavy duty model used mostly in trucks, large rear wheel cars, and vehicles with tow packages. The 375 was built using the 400 casing but is more light duty and used mostly in mid to large size cars.

    So which would be better to use? or would I be better in the long run just trying to sell/trade them both in order to get a 700R4?

    Here is what I have the one with the long cone is the THM 375:
     

    Attached Files:

  28. 1sik38coupe
    Joined: Nov 4, 2007
    Posts: 133

    1sik38coupe
    Member
    from Las Vegas

    No ideas with the transmission, huh?

    I spent the last few days removing a body mount bolt here and there when I had a few extra minutes. I got them all out and removed the shocks, as well. Most of them broke off, so I am going to have to replace some cage nuts in the body crossmember. Here's the pile I ended up with:
     

    Attached Files:

  29. magneto57
    Joined: Feb 20, 2012
    Posts: 125

    magneto57
    Member

    Cooooooool................rich
     
  30. johnwd98
    Joined: Jul 21, 2010
    Posts: 74

    johnwd98
    Member
    from Minnesota

    I'm working on a 50 Fleetline and, decided to go with a 700R. I hope to drive it a lot when it's finished enough to be safe to drive. I figured with overdrive there will be less engine noise and vibration at highway speeds. Haven't got far enough to know that yet though. So, this comment is just my 2 cents worth.
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.