My 40 Plymouth Coupe

This is awesome!! when stock the Steering arm mounting bolts just clear the bottom of your lower control arm when turning. Does the new Fatman dropped uprights alow the steering arm mounting bolts to clear just above the lower control arms? Do you mind sharing a picture of the steering arm.

 

I will have to snap a detail shot for you and get it posted. but I can tell you that when Fatman did the mods to the steering arms, they included the heat bending for the drop as well as fly cut and recessing the flush mounting bolts so there would be no clearance issues normally associated with regular hex bolts as shown in article below. I had Fatman do the mods cause I didn't trust myself nor did I have the proper machining equipment to perform the job.

http://www.webrodder.com/article.php?AID=52&SID=16

 

Thank you! I contacted Fatman fabrication and they can confirm that the 40 desoto uprights, steering nuckles, steering arms, etc.. are the same as the 40 Plymouth. They sure look identical in all pictures and diagrams Ive seen..

 

Thank You! This was excellent read

 

Did you have to use any spacers for the wheel-to-wheel mounting on the Coronet rear end?
If not, are you running the same rim offsets front & rear ?

I bought a 67 Coronet rear end also to swap into a 40 Chrysler (actually, I think it's a 69 or even later as it has the 489 number on the casting)

It's narrower than the 40. The perches are also narrower.

Just tryin to fill in the blanks

Thnx
Gatz

 

Gatz, how much narrower are you talking about? Ive been sizing some rear ends I see for sale on local ads and someone has listed a '67 Volare rear end that is 1/2 in shorter on each side compared to my stock 40 desoto rear

 

I took those measurements once... and of course I misplaced the info; so.... I went out did some careful measuring again. Used a straight piece of Alum bar stock and 2 squares.

The '40 Chrylser measured 61 3/8" WMS to WMS & 46 7/16" from perch hole to perch hole (these stock springs are rather narrow)


The 67 (or 68+) Coronet measured 60 1/4" WMS to WMS & 43 7/8" from perch hole to perch hole.

I bought a set of perches at Tractor Supply and they fit the Coronet axle tubes fine, but I haven't relocated them for the Chrysler yet. Still undecided about using the original springs or maybe something from a Jeep as suggested by a HAMB member.

Had read somewhere that a Granada was an easy fit in early Mopars too....anyone know for sure?

BTW, the 40 Chrysler's pinion was 3º UP

 

The one Im looking into picking up as told by the seller is off of a 67 Volare Its 8 1/4 in Inside drum to inside drum is 60 1/2 in perch hole to perch hole is 43 in.

 

No such thing as a 67 Volare, but the size sounds right.

 

The 67 Coronet rear end is narrower than the original rear end. I went with the Coronet cause my first plan was to run a deep dish rear wheel and just a little lowered. But after deciding to tail drag the ass end of the car, I had to stay with the skinny wheels for fender clearence. So there for, yes I am running Billet spacers. As for the spring perches, I cut off the Coronet ones and purchased a set of narrow ones and welded them on and used 3" dropped blocks from Butch's cool stuff until I can finish and complete the taildragger kit. Hope this helps..

 

Love this pic by Chadly. Rolling in the rain.

 

Lookin Good!

 

Thanks alot, I dig yours too.. How do you like the 2 bar setup in the back? I'm putting together my game plan on doing mine, cant decide on the 2 bar with a panhard bar or the triangulated 4 link.

 

I like my set up. All I wanted to do is up to drive and down when I parked. It works great for what I do "Cruzzzz it"! Good luck on what ever you choose. I by far am not a no it all but would be glad to help any way I can.

 

Do you mind sharing what size studs you used? and what size Drill bit? I purchased 1/2 in studs and cannot seem to find a drill that size Seems that once size is too small and the other too big.

a 9/16 is too small and 5/8 too big.. Actually 5/8 is exactly the same as the largest width of the stud.. Im sure if I use the 5/8 the stub will not lock on.

 

If you don't have a set of calipers then take a stud back to the parts store and have them measure the smaller part in between the splines. My guess is you'll need a 19/32" or 39/64" drill bit.

 

Thank You.. a buddy of mine did the work and did use a 39/64 at first but made the hole too big 19/32 worked just fine. I spot welded the one that was loose. Thank U

 

Are you planning on ever putting disk brakes in the back? Im just wondering if this shorter rear end will allow you enough room for a caliper to fit between the backing plate and the frame if you ever decide to lay the rear down that low...
In looking for a rear end for mine Im stuck between more clearance between backing plate and frame or more clearance between tire and fender.

 

I have no plans of going to rear disk brakes. I'm staying with the flathead motor, and it doesn't go fast enough to need that much braking power..LOL

 

Sorry this info is late, been really busy. the stud I used was Dorman # 610-138 and I can't remember which drill bit I used for sure. But almost certain it was like 19/32. I remember i had to go buy one, cause my bit set didn't go that large.

 

I ended up buying a 1973 Plymouth Satellite (Bbody) rear end. Its about 3/4 in longer on each side measured from outside drum hub to outside drum hub and to my surprise the leaf spring perches are exactly the same distance as my stock rear.
Im just hoping the 3/4 in extra does make my wheels rub on the inner fenders

 

Nice!!

 

Did you ever get that dual carb intake on / working? Just curious - if so, what carbs did you end up with?

I am researching this while waiting on my other parts to get back....trying to decide between dual stock carbs w/ Offy intake or possibly the Edgy intake with dual 97's....

 

I still have it, I'm holding it back for my other motor im working up. The motor currently in the car is a 201. I'm working up a 218 which will get the speed equip dress up job. I will prob just run the stock ball and ball carbs though, i see no reason to do other wise. When i had my 52 Buick with the straight eight I ditch the strombergs for Holley 94's on it. That thing ran so sweet with those ford flathead carbs. I wish I could do more faster, but time and money are a constraint these days for me.

 

Your car is beautiful and the subtle mods make the whole project elegant! Keep up the good work!

 

Thanks...

 

Hows that airbag suspension coming along?!

 

Temporally delayed, I've been helping 53olds with his project..

 

Well here we go again guys, getting the air bags installed finally.