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Projects My '39 GMC COE Build On Hold,Got Sold

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Flowmeister, May 16, 2012.

  1. sololobo
    Joined: Aug 23, 2006
    Posts: 8,287


    Awesome rig bro, I like where you are headed. Best wishes with the build. ~sololobo~
  2. Thanks again for all the positive comments!

    So for the last couple of weeks I have been tearing this all apart
    so I can sandblast it.
    The rear panel had been caved in really hard and the seam between
    the two panels had been arc welded at some point.
    I made the decision to cut the panel right off for repair and the seam will be replaced with a fresh 2" piece of metal with the body line rolled into it,hammer welded.
    I may end up building a whole new rear panel, but will determine that when the repairs start on that part.
    One thing I wanted to do was color match the original red, cause once it is blasted, it is gone.
    I polished the front of the door jamb and a spot on the top of the cowl that was under the nose.
    Picked a color, did a spray out and am very happy with the result!
    Now I just had to wait for the relentless downpour of rain to stop.

    Attached Files:

  3. Watching the forcast , today was the day!
    Loaded up everything this morning and went blasting.
    To me, sandblasting is like being in a bad relationship,
    there is a very obvious point when you realize you don't want to be doing it anymore!
    And there is usually another half hour or so to go.
    I did 3 1/2 hours, lots of brackets and parts and angles, but it'd done.

    A few surprises.
    The truck had sat in a swampy area on its back right corner and I knew there was lots of rust perforations on the top corner, I didn't realize there would be any on the right door, but there is.
    No big deal, it is all repairable.
    The real nice part is all the sills and lower cab are really solid with no rust through at all. I tend to look at the positive!

    The doors had this really cool Transport logo, I did take a few pictures of it and measurements in the thought I may replicate it.
    The doors were blasted very well, but the ghost of that logo remains!

    Now it will be onto metalwork!

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jul 2, 2012
  4. Hey man.
    Why you cut her up?
    haha just kiddin!
    It's gotta be nice to work with fresh clean metal.
    Im ready to see some sick metalwork!

    Hey did you ever figure out what the company's name was?
  5. DAVEO!
    Joined: Dec 4, 2011
    Posts: 291


    OH MAN!!! way cool!!! i been wanting to build a COE for a long time still looking for one gonna build a slammed car hauler if i ever can get a hold of one. great work! subscribe!
  6. I was told that the companys name was
    DelDay Transport
    Pex, another COE guy up here told me he had another one of their trucks with the same logo.
  7. Finnrodder
    Joined: Oct 18, 2009
    Posts: 2,965

    from Finland

    This is interesting,i am glad i found this thread.I am going to watch it.
  8. pex
    Joined: Oct 28, 2009
    Posts: 83

    from alberta

    What's it cost at consolidated per hour. i'm thinking of doing both of mine at the same time.
  9. i think it is $110. per hour.
    I did 3hr 40 min it was $423. with tax.
    Money well spent.
    Blaaze was here today,
    brought me a little treat!
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2012
  10. b-bop
    Joined: May 19, 2008
    Posts: 946


    Let me guess, was he a little "Shifty" ?
  11. That's a pretty good guess b-bop!
    For anyone who doesn't know him,
    Blaaze is a local COE owner and woodchuck by profession.
    In his spare time he whittled out this COE shifter knob for me.
    Thanks again Brian, enjoyed the visit with you!

    Attached Files:

  12. b-bop
    Joined: May 19, 2008
    Posts: 946


    Blaaze, I know you are reading this. You gotta post some pics of the rest of your custom knobs on the Friday Art show!
  13. Thats what I told him.
    He has a very cool/impressive assortment of them.

    Flatti, I think this will just live in my trinket cabinet for now,
    it will be some time before i'm shifting gears.
  14. Blaaze
    Joined: Nov 9, 2010
    Posts: 15


    Hey guys, thanks for the kind words. My hat is getting a bit tight, may have to loosen it a bit. I have a knob for Pex too and b-bop if you get your ass in gear and find a COE I'll make you one!
  15. Halfdozen
    Joined: Mar 8, 2008
    Posts: 626


    Love the truck and the build ideas, with one exception:

    Hate to sound like a dick saying this, but those 2" front wheel spacers are liable to cause you grief unless you run front wheels with a lot of negative offset. The distance from the centre of the tire contact patch to the steering axis (line drawn vertically through the ball joints) at ground level is the scrub radius. The spacers move the centre of the tire 2" farther outboard of the steering axis, greatly increasing the scrub radius. You may find this makes the truck heavy to steer at low speed, inclined to dart when you hit a bump at higher speed, and it may not stop very straight under heavy braking. At the very least, you'll need more toe in when you align the front end.

    Please don't take this as a personal slagging, it's not meant that way. Just something to think about, and investigate further.
  16. pex
    Joined: Oct 28, 2009
    Posts: 83

    from alberta

    Kool-i have a grasshopper tap handle for blaaze if he's interested. going out to blackie today. happy birthday canada. there could be beer!
  17. Blaaze
    Joined: Nov 9, 2010
    Posts: 15


    Definitly interested in the Grasshopper Pex, my favorite beer!
  18. No worries,no offense taken.
    I do understand your concern with the wheel spacer use.
    My options are limited as to what I can do to get the wheels where they need to be.
    You know how it is, It either looks right, or it doesn't.

    If the fenders were wider I would cut and move them in a couple inches,
    but that won't end up looking good, so the spacers were my best choice.
    the wheel choice is still up in the air, but the one set I am considering do have a lot of inset, so that would nearly correct the ideal geometry.
    As a precaution because of using the spacer, I am planning on carrying an extra set of bearings with me on long trips.

    Thanks for your input.
    Glad you like the build!
  19. buggy5872
    Joined: Jun 18, 2011
    Posts: 80


    Truck is looking good. I know what you mean about the sand blasting. About 5 minutes into it, I am like a little kid "am I done yet". Keep up the good work.
  20. 57chevy350
    Joined: Jan 4, 2011
    Posts: 13


    LOL I hate sand blasting !!! nice truck keep up the good work !!
  21. thats funny i make lists to!!!! Love this build!!!!
  22. gkent
    Joined: Nov 21, 2011
    Posts: 102


    List are the only way to accomplish anything!
    Joined: Nov 17, 2011
    Posts: 85


    fuckin sweet, i want to build one of these into a tow pig :D
  24. bondo bill
    Joined: Jul 19, 2012
    Posts: 4

    bondo bill

    Saw one chopped, AWESOME!
  25. I've been beating it with hammers and dollies,
    There are a few dents I will document with photos and post them up
    Kind of a long, not exciting part of the project.
    But it is forward progress.
  26. Givens
    Joined: Sep 15, 2009
    Posts: 54

    from Indiana

    This thing is cool man! I am on the hunt now for a coe to build as a ramp back.
  27. I can't believe I have missed this up until now. Nice work so far it is going to be one cool truck when done.
  28. Thanks guys!
    I am deep in the metalwork phase of the project.
    Not very exciting.
    The back of the cab and roof are the worst, but it's all repairable.
  29. CoolHand
    Joined: Aug 31, 2007
    Posts: 1,929

    Alliance Vendor

    Don't worry about the scrub radius too much, so long as you make sure both sides are the same, and don't go crazy (like 2" is fine, 8" not so much).

    Sometimes you don't have any choice but to widen the scrub radius.

    I race oval track stock cars with very wide front end width rules (but limited in what suspension arms we can use), so to make our maximum width we routinely run very large offset wheels and special spindles.

    This combination of parts ends up giving us scrub radii upwards of 6", yet this causes us none of the problems listed earlier, because we do it right.

    What the larger scrub radius does is increase the leverage on all the suspension arms, so all your bushings need to be tight and harder than normal (we use solid steel bushings, which you won't want to do, but more the more rigid the better), and all your steering linkages need to have zero slop (we use heim joints and giant tie rod ends).

    If you run drum brakes in the front, it is imperative that they are both adjusted not only properly, but to match each other (IE the shoes on both sides touch the drum at the exact same time).

    The increased scrub radius will increase the leverage on your steering gear, so any mis-match in the timing of brake application from side to side up front will yield some really goofy steering feedback and possible darting (the dreaded death wobble, by another method).

    Careful design and construction can overcome these issues, but you have to be aware of them, pay extra attention when you're building, and make sure you take these issues into account when you're planning your parts layout, etc.

    It's not a big deal unless you're sloppy with the suspension geometry and construction, then it becomes a PITA.

    EDIT: BTW, that truck is gonna be bitchin' when you're done with it.

    One look at your avatar in another thread and I had to go read the build thread. Love the lines.
  30. Thanks CoolHand!
    I appreciate your input.
    I believe I am within acceptable limits and all the steering parts will be new.
    The brakes are all 3/4 ton Chevy disc/drum and will all be new components as well.

    I am deep in the metalwork on the cab, but I will post up a few updates with pictures of certain dents and repairs.

    Yup, I think it will be a fine looking truck when it is all done!

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