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Projects My '33 PU, a truck, a build, a story *Done For 2016*

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Flowmeister, Nov 16, 2015.

  1. greaser
    Joined: Apr 30, 2006
    Posts: 820

    greaser
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Oh, man...lower door hinge repair, remember it well! Probably the most difficult repair on the whole truck. Good luck with that! Once completed, you'll wonder why it took so long.
    Truck is looking GREAT. You do excellent work.
     
    Hotrodmyk and Flowmeister like this.
  2. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 426

    Jeff34
    Member

    Lower door hinge repair? Sheet metal tears? If so, I've got the same issue on my '34 and would like to know how you plan to address the issue!
     
  3. @Jeff34 I'll post up pictures and detail how I attacked this common issue on these trucks.
     
    Jeff34 likes this.
  4. I like the direction that your project is going, excellent job!!
     
  5. twenty8tudor
    Joined: Oct 5, 2010
    Posts: 804

    twenty8tudor
    Member
    from Ohio

    how can you not like an old ford painted black :) keep up the good work!
     
    bengeltiger likes this.
  6. 23dragster
    Joined: Apr 22, 2011
    Posts: 264

    23dragster
    Member
    from U.S.

    Your pickup looks killer man! I love it; very inspiring.
     
  7. IMG_20151019_220750.jpg IMG_20151019_220756.jpg IMG_20151129_141310.jpg IMG_20151129_141758.jpg Part 19 Lower door hinge debacle

    A very high percentage of 32-34 trucks will have thrashed or repaired lower door hinges.
    I figured it was probably due to too light of metal structure holding the hinge to the door.
    The passenger door on mine was the better of the two, so I started with that one.
    The door skin itself wasn't that bad, the metal was torn horizontally at the top and bottom of the hinge and accordioned back about an inch. The metal at the hinge in the jamb was torn and gone, and the hinge was loosely hanging on, still by the three factory rivets and a few spot welds.

    I drilled out the rivets and spot welds and pulled the hinge out. I decided rather than re rivet it on, I would use the 5/16 fine c/s machine screws as they do on the top hinge.
    The door structure consists of a U channel that is spot welded to the jamb part of the shell, it has a flat area where the hinge attaches and then returns to the U channel for the lower 5".
    The flat area was all cracked and broken from all the flexing and the spot welds on the bottom were mostly torn out. I drilled the remaining ones out and removed the lower piece of the U.

    It was obvious why these fail, the spot welds on the left side of the lower U channel were barely
    touching right from the factory. I cut a little access opening so I could straighten and hammer/dolly
    the part on the skin. I made a new flat hinge area piece and welded it in. I drilled about twice as many spot weld holes and tig welded those. Then bolted the hinge in for a test fit. Once that was done, I made a new piece for the jamb area, welded it in and used a countersink bit to be able to have the screws recessed. Then I put my little access piece back in and hammer welded it, using a toe dolly inside the door through the triangle access opening.

    Kind of a tricky repair to do on a door with such little access.
    I am trying to keep my feet on the repair side and not cross over to the restored side.
    I guess I just want the body of this to be as nice as I hoped it was.

    I also believe another contributing factor to the hinge problem, is the check rod/strap.
    Either not being there, like mine, or really out of proper adjustment.
    Once that happens the door can fling open so the hinge runs out of travel and all that force will get absorbed where the hinge attaches. The A pillar is so much stronger than the door shell.

    Sorry for the long winded explanation.

    The drivers door is so much worse, I'll take a few more pictures as I finish it.
     
    Last edited: Dec 1, 2015
  8. Part 19.2 Drivers door hinge

    Here is a couple pictures to show how bad it was.
    Ugly welds on the skin, someone had hammered the jamb in and put a big blob of weld to
    the inner U channel and cut below it and welded to it there also.
    I'm about half done with it at this point.

    I also discovered this name brush painter over. I wrote an email to that town and sent this picture hoping to find some information. They had nothing in the town records, but told me that only meant he didn't own property there. No big deal.
    11311145_986274304730034_1870724741_n.jpg IMG_20140311_132842_488.jpg IMG_20151129_140948.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 1, 2015
    kiwijeff, brad2v, greaser and 3 others like this.
  9. These old truck doors did take quite a beating over the years. Nice repairs.
     
    Last edited: Dec 1, 2015
  10. greaser
    Joined: Apr 30, 2006
    Posts: 820

    greaser
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Nice job on that lower door hinge repair. I bet not at all easy when working thru that triangular opening!
    I had removed the outer door skin on my doors, so access was not a problem. And it was still a lot of work to do it right!
     
  11. snowroutes
    Joined: Feb 10, 2014
    Posts: 50

    snowroutes

    Man that's completely awesome! Maybe someday I'll be just as lucky and find one near Oregon in my price range
     
  12. Thank you ! @sidevalve8ba @greaser and @snowroutes
    Yeah, these doors got used and abused, and quick repairs to keep
    it in service. Easy to see why so many on the farm got unbolted
    and thrown in the barn or workshop if they were lucky.
    It was probably easier to do that than repair them.

    More repair pictures tonight.
     
  13. Very nice build! Cool looking rear radius bar setup! How does perform?
     
  14. Thank you! @ct1932ford
    So far it seems to work well, but I haven't got it out of my little neighborhood yet.
    Can't wait till I do though!

    Today I got sidetracked and worked on my hood top pieces.
    Lots of dents and bends and a couple tears along the hinge edge.
    I love old trucks!
     
    kiwijeff and Jeff34 like this.
  15. triumph 1
    Joined: Feb 9, 2011
    Posts: 367

    triumph 1
    Member

    Very nice work! Thanks for showing the lower hinge repairs & explaining in detail.
     
    Jeff34 and Flowmeister like this.
  16. Thanks! @triumph 1
    I'll have more hinge repair pictures and an update on that,
    but I got side tracked on my hood for a couple days.
     
  17. Part 20 The hood situation

    It was always weighing heavy in my mind about the hood for this.
    I have two, the one that came with the truck and an orange one that I bought when I was gathering parts for the meat truck. The original one was really bent up, from dry hinges and being forced open, it also had tears along the hinge edge. The orange one, was a lot straighter, but had real heavy corrosion on the underside. I have a thing about using original parts, so I did work on it for the last couple days.

    The hinge was a total mess, with a brutal farmer repair, I had spent some time trying to salvage it a while ago, but then I bought the Drake reproduction. Smart move.

    Without going into a ton of detail, I did a fair bit of hammer and dolly work, welded up a spot where a fan blade had tried to escape, welded along the hinge edge. Set it on and took a look. I'll take it back off for some more clean up and touch up the paint, but for now i'll leave it on. I need to build brackets for the rear hood latches to mount to.

    So now i'll get back on the drivers door hinge repair and finish that, knowing
    the hood situation isn't really a situation any more.

    1538561_334310633360931_186329883_n.jpg IMG_20151202_150355 (1).jpg IMG_20151205_222951.jpg IMG_20151205_222941.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 6, 2015
  18. waxhead
    Joined: May 11, 2013
    Posts: 1,083

    waxhead
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from West Oz

    Looking good.
     
    Flowmeister likes this.
  19. SicSpeed
    Joined: Apr 23, 2014
    Posts: 622

    SicSpeed
    Member
    from Idaho

    Nice work
     
    Flowmeister likes this.
  20. Part 19.3 Drivers door hinge, done

    The drivers door was a bit more complicated, I had to fabricate a larger piece for the jamb of the door and I had to build a patch piece for the skin area around the hinge because of all the bad welds that were previously done. Not a big deal, just more work and time.

    I started by cutting out the ugly jamb part, then took some measurements where the hinge needed to be located, then I made the piece for the U channel where the hinge bolts on and welded it in. Next, I made the jamb piece with the lip for the door skin to fold over. As with the other door, I drilled about twice as many holes for spot welds onto the U channel. Then welded it in.

    I made a posterboard template for the skin patch piece and hammered the little reveal that goes around the hinge. Trimmed it up and welded it into place. Then hammer and dolly work through the access hole I cut into the inner till I was satisfied with it. Last, I rewelded the piece I cut out for access.

    I will chuck some paint on it and get it mounted this weekend

    Next up will be some pictures of the door latch mechanism rebuild.

    Here's some door hinge repair pictures.

    Thanks for following along.
    IMG_20151207_123524.jpg IMG_20151207_154750.jpg IMG_20151207_223232.jpg IMG_20151208_220317.jpg IMG_20151209_124104.jpg IMG_20151210_222551.jpg IMG_20151211_162907.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 11, 2015
  21. D.N.D.
    Joined: Aug 15, 2012
    Posts: 1,385

    D.N.D.
    Member

    Hey Flow dude

    What the heck are those square tube blue alum gizmo's anyway, some type of clamp ?

    Really enjoying your truck build with great pics & copy to explain each step along the way

    Very nice work on both !!

    DND
     
  22. Thanks! @D.N.D.

    The blue thingys are butt weld clamps.
    They work really well, a little bar slides in below and they
    also have a couple thumb screws to compensate for different
    thickness's of metal.
    Here is another picture of them in action.
    11356772_853889981355287_634241270_n.jpg
     
    volvobrynk likes this.
  23. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 2,380

    dumprat
    Member
    from b.c.

    I need a set of those clamps. Did you get them in Canada ?
     
  24. Harbor Freight use to sell these, I don't know if they still do.
     
  25. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 2,380

    dumprat
    Member
    from b.c.

    Ya except the shipping twenty miles across the boarder it worth more than the clamps.
     
    brad2v likes this.
  26. 54monarch
    Joined: Feb 28, 2011
    Posts: 36

    54monarch
    Member
    from Calgary

    When we lived in Manitoba in 1970 p/u had to be licensed as commercial vehicles so you had to put your name on the doors. My Dads said Jack Simmons and Son then when my brother was born he added 's.
    I was watching your videos and when you backed out of your garage I though. Hey those garbage cans look familiar. I'm from Calgary as well. Good to see the post neighbour.
     
  27. @dumprat I got them from Princess auto, forget how much, but cheap when on sale.

    @54monarch Thanks!, That explains the name on the door. Hope to see you on the road sometime.
     
  28. dumprat
    Joined: Dec 27, 2006
    Posts: 2,380

    dumprat
    Member
    from b.c.

    Cool. Thanks!
     

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