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Projects My '32 5 Window Project

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by LM14, Apr 14, 2018.

  1. LM14
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,118

    LM14
    Member
    from Iowa

    I've posted in several different threads where I've asked questions, time to bring it all into one build thread. Lots of info up-front to get things in one place then I'll add to it as things happen. Thanks for following along.

    In the beginning I started selling old race parts that littered my shop. We raced for 25 years in IMCA stock cars, modifieds and dirt late models. I have also had several OT projects thru the shop in the last 30 years. Time to clean and decided Craigslist was the place to start. Once I sold for a month or so, it dawned on me that I could possible sell enough unwanted stuff to fund a '32 5 window build I had always wanted.

    After selling for 3 months, I had enough for an "entry level" street rod/hot rod kit. I started shopping hard. Asked a lot of questions and got some great feedback from the folks here. I went from looking at $15,000 roller body/chassis kits to working direct with manufacturers to build exactly what I wanted. The thing that was a big tipping point was selling my '55 2 door sedan. That put me over the top. I started looking at higher end stuff yet still keeping the flavor of a hot rod.

    The plan started to form. I noticed a lot of builders used Pete and Jake front and/or rear suspension components. I'm only 3.5 hours from P&J so I drove down and talked to them, took a tour and got a quote. Great guys to work with. Went home, poured over the P&J catalog and made tweaks. Drove down a couple of weeks later and made my changes and left a deposit. The ball was rolling!

    That weekend the wife had some time off and we were going to do a road trip to look at bodies. I have to touch before I buy. My intent that weekend was to drive to BeBops in Louisiana and look at their body. Something just didn't sit right with me about them and at the last minute I contacted Ed at New Age Motorsports in Connecticut and we changed the direction we were going. After meeting Ed and Chris, and feeling totally comfortable with the quality and care of the product they made, we placed a down payment to hold our place in line and wait 8 month to get the body.

    The big parts were ordered. I looked around the shop to see what I could use that I had. A set of coated headers, Weiand intake and Holley carb, some valve cover spacers and early valve covers, a roller 302/5.0 and a C4 were looking for a place to land so that became the engine. I made a couple trips to Yogi's in Monticello, IA to get some parts. Again a great group of people to work with. Also placed an order with Summit, Speedway and another with Brookville. Parts started rolling in!

    302vcac3b.jpg 22214915_1971221603135644_1778454077_n.jpg 22215229_1971221619802309_2027858987_n.jpg 23414565_1987534804837657_1861971093_n.jpg Gauge1.png Gauge2.png Grilleshell1.jpg Headlight1.png Ididit2.jpg Ididit1.jpg Taillight1.png Tank1.jpg
     
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  2. LM14
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,118

    LM14
    Member
    from Iowa

    November 2017 I got the call that the chassis was done so a quick trip down was in order. Threw my tires and wheels in the back of the pickup and drove down to pick up the rolling chassis at Pete and Jakes.

    Got a '32 frame with triangulated 4 bar, hairpin front. The 9" is all new and full of 31 spline axles and a 3.25 gear and has drum brakes and polished aluminum adjustable coilovers and chrome springs. The front end is a Hi Lite polished Alum-I-Beam, chrome Posies spring and some bling mixed with some natural finish parts to paint for contrast. Had them install the stainless brake line system, proportioning valve, Vega cross steering and combo headlight/shock mounts. Since I was doing a hi boy, they filled all the fender mounting holes, too! Also picked up a set of their polished stainless spreader bars.

    I highly recommend working with these folks. Couldn't have been a more pleasant experience from beginning to end. Plus they have a great showroom!

    SPark

    21728124_1963506783907126_1681562819072837627_n.jpg 21739985_1963506800573791_288777204420888152_n.jpg PJ1.jpg PJ2.jpg PJ3.jpg PJ4.jpg PJ5.jpg PJ6.jpg PJ7.jpg PJ9.jpg PJ10.jpg PJ11.jpg PJ12.jpg PJ13.jpg PJ14.jpg PJ16.jpg PJ17.jpg
     
    Last edited: Apr 14, 2018
  3. LM14
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,118

    LM14
    Member
    from Iowa

    Once I got that home, I mounted the engine/tranny. I raised the front of the engine 5/8" and the tranny 1/2" to gain some clearance around the oil filter. Also got my fan away from the lower radiator hose. I'm using a '71 style timing cover, '69 water pump (right hand hose) and some early 1 grove pulleys (Speedway chrome parts). The secret to using the early pulleys is a Pro Products balancer. It has 3 bolt and 4 bolt lower pulley mounts. Lets me use the 3 bolt lower pulley on the later crank. I did have to make a 1/4" spacer to fit behind the pulley. Everything lines up great.

    Also ran fuel lines, trany cooler lines, tranny vacuum line and tacked the stainless exhaust together. Starting to look like a chassis!

    SPark

    exh11.png exh21.jpg exh28.jpg clr4.jpg clr6.jpg clr7.jpg cooler1.jpg cooler3.png cooler12.jpg clr14.jpg cooler13.jpg vac1.jpg vac6.jpg Fuelline12.jpg Fuelline15.jpg Fuelline21.png Fuelline18.jpg hole1.jpg hole7.jpg hole9.jpg
     
    Last edited: Apr 14, 2018
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  4. LM14
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,118

    LM14
    Member
    from Iowa

    Hoses. We've all fought the battle. I use the old "bend a welding wire to shape and browse thru the hose supply at the local parts store" method. Found great fitting upper and lower radiator hoses, a stock bypass hose and then I got to the heater hoses.

    I want to hide some things in plain sight on the engine to clean it up a bit. What I ended up doing was a pair of 3/8 NPT to 5/8 hose barb fittings pressed (soon to be welded) into the ends of a piece of 3/4" x .083 wall steel tubing. I then welded tabs to the tubing to mount it on a couple of intake bolts. Another trip to the hose rack and I found a nice molded hose to go from the water pump to the new steel conduit and hopefully I can use some of the cutoff bends to run hose to the heater location once the body is mounted.

    Also mounted the temp sending unit at the back of the intake. Had to drill and tap the holes for the 1/2" NPT fittings.

    I hate flex hoses, molded will always look nicer to me. It's worth the time measuring, trimming and shopping to find it.

    SPark

    heater1.jpg heater3.png heater4.png heater5.jpg heater6.jpg heater7.png heater8.png RadHoseLower.jpg RadHoseLower2.jpg RadHoseLower3.png RadHoseUpper.jpg RadHoseUpper2.png RadHoseUpper3.jpg
     
    Last edited: Apr 14, 2018
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  5. LM14
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,118

    LM14
    Member
    from Iowa

    Got the call from New Age Motorsports! They've started on my body. It will have:

    3" chop
    Filled roof
    Rain gutters
    Stock style firewall set back to clear my engine location
    Custom tranny hump to clear my engine/tranny location
    Flip out windshield
    Working cowl vent
    Hand crank door windows
    Roll down back window
    Stock style trunk drain
    Stock style trunk catch
    Flat dash
    Stock type hinges and handles
    Glass and garnish moldings
    All the internal steel tubing bracing and wood

    Plan is to head back to Connecticut May 25th to pick it up. Only 1200 miles each way, should be a nice summer cruise again.

    Pics taken from the NAM website (their pics show electric windows, mine will be hand crank)

    You are now up to date! Will continue to add to this as things happen.

    Thanks for looking!
    SPark

    nam21.jpg nam24.jpg nam25.jpg nam30.jpg nam31.jpg nam32.jpg nam35.jpg nam42.jpg nam111.jpg nam87.jpg nam70.jpg nam95.jpg
     
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2018
    Stogy, kidcampbell71, treb11 and 4 others like this.
  6. LM14
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,118

    LM14
    Member
    from Iowa

    It was a good day! Cardiologist took me off another med. Down to one half of one blood pressure pill a day! Quite a change from 4 pills for BP and 1 or 2 for heart rhythm every day. Quitting work was a good idea and now hopefully I'll feel like working on my toys more with my heart rhythm back up where it belongs instead of hovering around 45-50 all the time!

    When I got home from the Doc, had a package from Honest Charlie's waiting for me. Got the stainless dash panel and stainless insert. Had the gauges all winter, just needed a pretty home for them. Car porn!

    SPark

    Gauges5.jpg Gauges6.jpg Gauges7.png Gauges8.png
     
  7. falconsprint63
    Joined: May 17, 2007
    Posts: 2,333

    falconsprint63
    Member
    from Mayberry

    Been kicking around those gauges in a cluster like that nice to have a chance to see how it looks.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  8. LM14
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,118

    LM14
    Member
    from Iowa

    Decided on an OBT air filter setup, kinda mimics the hub caps.. The main bod will be painted engine color and the dome is polished aluminum. Also got the stainless fuel lines and PCV line made.

    Decided on '41 caps and ribbed trim rings. Got the caps the other day.

    The last 6 pics are teasers. Took a scale 3" out of the tops of a couple Revell '32 Ford 5 windows to play with some color combinations. Leaning hard towards the Sage Green with Celery Green wheels (not sure why they look so blue in the pictures, they are a pale yellow/green in person) and trim. The red one also looks decent but it's just overdone to me.

    SPark

    AirCleaner1.jpg AirCleaner2.jpg AirCleaner3.jpg AirCleaner4.jpg Fuelline23.jpg Fuelline24.jpg Fuelline25.jpg Fuelline27.jpg hubcap1.png hubcap2.png scalegreen1.jpg scalegreen2.jpg scalegreen3.jpg scalegreen5.jpg scalered5.jpg scalered6.jpg
     
    Last edited: Apr 21, 2018
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  9. pprather
    Joined: Jan 10, 2007
    Posts: 761

    pprather
    Member

    Green looks great. Keep up the quality work.


    Phil
     
  10. golferforpar
    Joined: Nov 7, 2009
    Posts: 24

    golferforpar
    Member
    from Wisc

    SPark
    I am watching your build with great interest. I am building a 32 also with a Ford 5.0 and Walker radiator. I was able to read the part number for the lower radiator hose, could not make out the number for the upper hose, I'd like to ask if you would share the part number.
    Also, are you running a heater, looking at the water pump hose routing leads me to think that you will.
    Thank You in advance.
     
  11. LM14
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,118

    LM14
    Member
    from Iowa

    Upper hose. Attached a picture.

    Using a Ford Motorsports thermostat housing but they don't clear the bypass hose the greatest with this Weiand Stealth intake. Had to do some clearance work on the bottom side by the bypass hose location and will have to tig it back in, kind of hit air in a couple places...

    I plan to run a heater. Looking at this:

    https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Flex-A-Lite-640-Mojave-Universal-Heater,304.html

    with the extra (model 650) plenum on it so I can have defrost. Have to have defrost for the inspection to get a title issued as a specially constructed vehicle, 1932 Ford. They might pass it with a bus fan depending on the officer doing the inspecting but they have to pass a defroster. Also like to hit a few shows at the end of the season where a heater could come in handy!

    SPark

    RadHoseUpper4.png
     
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  12. LM14
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,118

    LM14
    Member
    from Iowa

    Color decided......I think......
    SPark

    wheelsandcaps3.jpg scalegreen5.jpg scalegreen8.jpg scalegreen7.jpg scalegreen6.jpg
     
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  13. LM14
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,118

    LM14
    Member
    from Iowa

    Think we’ve agreed on a color (as of today anyway).

    Sage Green with Celery Green accents. Probably a little pinstriping for accents, too.

    Got all the battery cables routed and secured to the frame. Also chose the solenoid location. Tucked out of the way but easily accessible from the bottom. Ground lugs welded to the frame. Worked on our dirt late models, should work here!

    SPark

    6C6C0553-5756-45FA-804A-8F03A6FB6B85.jpeg 0F15852A-BFEA-42B9-B5F7-328ED6EBBBBD.jpeg 5964C958-1987-450F-BF13-AEABEDA03E4E.jpeg 125E5201-223A-4770-87C0-724A480643B6.jpeg EB063E20-3018-4F05-BC00-C1C318BA190B.jpeg D7F62DF1-C4DB-4DC8-987D-D57135CC1189.jpeg 8840B438-7DAF-4C9B-8DBB-ABC97DC65686.jpeg B98CB51D-D664-4165-B8FB-8C03E6F9181A.jpeg 30FC3C60-E801-4768-8D55-45D780325241.jpeg 497BCD6E-DA03-4C38-B7CF-B0F021795F5F.jpeg 93662FD2-B654-4454-BD24-4F9DB8F51888.jpeg 59FCD450-545E-4C38-AD1E-34C58CEB4FEA.jpeg 4DF5B39D-156F-436F-8C41-1CF64609365E.jpeg
     
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  14. clem
    Joined: Dec 20, 2006
    Posts: 1,875

    clem
    Member

    Nice build and workmanship,
    but while I don’t like to be critical, I don’t see too much that fits in with this forum.
    Front discs, coil overs, are what I am referring to.
     
  15. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 12,521

    alchemy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    That's a very similar color to Jerry Hagen's 32 five-window out of Illinois a few years ago. Did you ever see that car? He had it at Des Moines GoodGuys at least once.
     
  16. LM14
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,118

    LM14
    Member
    from Iowa

    That's true. Between the coilovers (common on early 60's drag and show cars), radials (Patented 1915), front discs (1902), glass body (1940's) and a lot of other things maybe it doesn't need to be here. Seem to be a lot of other cars here with coilovers, discs, etc. It will have a somewhat traditional look but it will be all new parts. I plan to drive it a lot and enjoy it. Want to be able to get parts anywhere I need to. Trying to keep things simple. Time marches on and I learn as I go. Built a lot of cars and learned something on every one.

    I'll just stop sharing my progress on this board. The car will still be built the way I want it but you won't have to look at it that way. Have a nice day.

    SPark
     
    Last edited: May 4, 2018
  17. LM14
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,118

    LM14
    Member
    from Iowa

    Maybe I have seen it, don't remember it though. Been to Good Guys several times and always spend a lot of time going over the '32's. Might have stuck in my head and I didn't even realize it. Spent a ton of time cruising the internet looking at colors. Saved a couple hundred pictures I keep going back thru trying to decide. I'm usually happy with primer and getting it driving, wife agreed to the project with the stipulation this one gets painted.

    SPark
     
  18. DDDenny
    Joined: Feb 6, 2015
    Posts: 9,895

    DDDenny
    Member
    from oregon

    The HAMB has a plethora of cars like yours (and mine), not sure why Clem would say that.
    Please continue, if I'm not mistaken this is the general discussion area, not the traditional hot rods category.
     
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  19. LM14
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,118

    LM14
    Member
    from Iowa

    Kind of what I thought, too.
    Thanks, SPark
     
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  20. clem
    Joined: Dec 20, 2006
    Posts: 1,875

    clem
    Member

    Sorry,
    Probably a poor choice of wording.And probably should have expanded on what I was thinking.
    I thought that front discs and coil overs were not considered traditional.
    I have followed other threads on here that were very similar and mysteriously disappeared.
    I assumed that they disappeared for the reason of parts used, front discs etc
    Maybe it was other reasons, I don’t know.
    Maybe the key to that is your comment about being in the general forum or traditional forum.
    That is my misinterpretation of things.
    I have always been reluctant to post any thing much about my coupe due to it having - front discs and coil overs. I don’t consider it traditional and thought that it didn’t fit on this forum.
    Ironically it is a ‘32 5 window also.

    Clemens.
     
    Last edited: May 5, 2018
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  21. clem
    Joined: Dec 20, 2006
    Posts: 1,875

    clem
    Member

    I hope that you continue to post.
    Certainly didn’t mean to be offensive , although that’s how I came across.
    My apologies.
    Clemens.
     
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  22. papastrk
    Joined: Feb 22, 2012
    Posts: 46

    papastrk
    Member

    Whew! Biting my lip and shaking my head. I just don't understand post such as #14. Unfortunate! I am helping a friend with a very similar build to SPark's and have thoroughly enjoyed him sharing his build with everyone. I sincerely hope that post #14 does not discourage SPark from sharing further progress with Forum members. A great build for sure, with lots of good information shared with others. Please continue sharing your build.
     
  23. clem
    Joined: Dec 20, 2006
    Posts: 1,875

    clem
    Member


    After reading your post and DDDenny’s, I went back to the forum’s guide lines, and yes I got it wrong on the discs and coil overs. My lack of understanding and something that I should have researched more. DDDenny had it right with the difference between traditional and general discussion forums.

    So to all involved, especially the original poster, my sincere apologies.
    Sorry to also taint your thread with this.
     
  24. DDDenny
    Joined: Feb 6, 2015
    Posts: 9,895

    DDDenny
    Member
    from oregon

    Just a short derail to your thread.

    Clem
    Regarding the traditional versus general categories, I personally experienced something that happened here recently that I couldn't quite understand.
    I had posted a photo of my engine which by traditional standards is non HAMB friendly, in a short time it disappeared (no explanation). Couldn't figure out why when I had posted the same photo on other threads before.
    Come to find out, due to low battery on my regular tablet, I was using another tablet that I had the HAMB saved as "traditional hot rods" and hadn't given it any thought when I used it to post the engine photo, apparently the report button got pressed enough times to get the moderators attention.
    Stay between the lines, the lines are your friend;)
     
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  25. LM14
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,118

    LM14
    Member
    from Iowa

    Pictures tell the story of the last 74.5 hours. Body meets frame tomorrow afternoon!

    SPark

    Connecticut Trip.jpg body1.jpg body2.jpg body3.jpg body4.jpg body5.jpg body7.jpg body11.jpg body12.jpg
     
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  26. LM14
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,118

    LM14
    Member
    from Iowa

    Thanks to a great group of friends on a 95* day. At least we had free beer for them!

    SPark

    0CDEED71-D769-4009-B621-9330326F2BD9.jpeg C98A45E6-29D9-4026-B491-65CC3576976F.jpeg 9146B7B0-CC10-43E2-B3EA-A192530D10A1.jpeg 90CDBE26-5A4D-476E-A9FC-340B0287ED3D.jpeg EFB65201-0A00-4919-8C52-09C009364EBF.jpeg 745BBA90-7FB3-43B4-B84F-C2DB4E6F5317.jpeg
     
  27. 26hotrod
    Joined: Nov 28, 2009
    Posts: 683

    26hotrod
    Member
    from landis n c

    I have enjoyed this thread and happy motoring...……….
     
  28. LM14
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,118

    LM14
    Member
    from Iowa

    Body mounted. Had to remove a little boss on the bellhousing before it would come forward all the way. Little fiberglass trimming at the top 2 bellhousing bolts and it slid into place perfect. Engine fits the firewall nice and tight. They did a great job working with the pictures and drawings I supplied for engine/tranny location for creating the firewall and trans tunnel. Great custom fit. Really happy with the body. Doors open and close nicely, everything stayed as build in their jig moving it to my chassis. Happy day!

    SPark

    fweng2.jpg fweng1.jpg fweng7.jpg fweng5.jpg fweng3.jpg fweng4.jpg fweng9.jpg fweng10.jpg
     
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  29. mcsfabrication
    Joined: Nov 26, 2006
    Posts: 702

    mcsfabrication
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

  30. LM14
    Joined: Dec 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,118

    LM14
    Member
    from Iowa

    Little bit of progress. Decided on Chevy taillights. Got them where I wanted them and drilled the holes. Dash cut for gauges and insert laid out. Also drilled the brake pedal hole. Baby steps. It's 95* in the shop again so work will be slow.
    SPark

    taillights2.jpg taillights3.jpg gauges10.png pedals3.jpg pedals2.jpg pedals1.jpg
     
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