Some photos of my banger "in progress". I'm building to early Thirties style. It will be fenderless, but with running boards. The engine is currently a stock T. I haven't decided whether to use the 1928 Chevy OHV head that I have or use one of the aluminum flatheads (cost will be about the same either way). I have a complete 1927 Chevy OHV 4 engine, too, so that is another posibility. I do have a very rare two carb (updraft) intake for the T, so I'm leaning toward the aluminum flathead so that I can use that. It could easily be adapted to the Chevy head, though. If I use the T engine, it will have the hottest cam that Stipe makes and the most compression that I can risk on babbet rods and mains. I'm trying to decide whether to go with black or red interior (exterior will be black). Anyone know when red leatherette became available? Earliest that I have seen on a factory interior was on a 47 Buick. I've got a lowering spring for the back, and will be lowering the front. It will still be pretty high though. From what I've found in my research, the early Thirties "hot rods" were not usually lowered very much. Headlight placement is temporary. Where do they need to be in relation to the grill and wheels? Thoughts? Critique? Both positive and negative constructive criticisms are welcomed.
very cool on all ideas. the 28 chevy head is something that you don't see done very often. I would definately do that over an al. flathead.
i really like the idea! maybe you can look into running a stronger crank...an "A" maybe? i think i would run the overhead and make your own intake for it...anybody can go buy a flathead...but a converted chevy head seems like it would be cool as for the stance...personally i think i would remove the running boards...i like the look of them on some cars that still have the splash aprons on the side...but without them the boards just kinda float there im not sure if in the early 30's they had fender laws? so people may have just stripped them off for good? theres a good looking "T" in one of the hop-ups in the back..it has a hood ornament like isky's car kinda i really like that car and have been considering building something similar good luck Zach
I had my 28 roadster out last summer changing the oil and my 75+ year old neighbor comes walking towards me with a picture. it's a picture of his sister and his brother in law when they were dating. circa 1928. it's an older chevy roadster with the fenders stripped off but the running boards/splash aprons where still on it. my neighbor said that his father wouldn't let the car in his driveway without fenders on it (nevermind let his daughter in it). it was a VERY cool car from maine. windshield wasn't in it, hood was belted on, stance was pretty high. my thinking is that the fenders being able to go back on went beyond laws. the cars had to be slightly practical especially in the northeast. I'm sure the fenders went back on during winter.(and dates in this particular case)
A couple of days ago I was leaving my remodel job going down an alley when I saw two guys loading a flat bed trailler and a pickup with model A and model T parts. There were at least two cosmolined blocks with cranks that looked new, I don't know how many heads, two complete rear ends, Model T radiator covers, wire wheels, etc. Everything looked new or frehly painted. Everything belonged to his grandpa who just died. One of the guys took me around back and showed me what he called a 3 door model T touring car that looked like it just came off the showroom floor...THEN, he took me into the garage to show me the Model A coupe ragtop also in mint condition that was sitting next to a chopped and channeled 35 sedan with flames and a Coca Cola chest style Coke machine for a trailer.... He told me he had enough parts to build 2 model A's , all he needed was chassis and bodies.
Thanks for all the comments and suggestions! This car is intended to be rural/small town Southeast style. A lot of fenders were permanantly removed here. I've talked to the old-timers and from what I've been told this is how it usually went when it comes to modified T's in the rural Southeast: First the muffler came off, then the fenders. Then engine mods. The car was almost always a Touring car. The Roadsters were rather rare. They were not bought in the rural Southeast because they were impractical for the farm family. They were thought of as "sports cars". Enclosed cars were almost unheard of in the rural Southeast. My Dad says that there was only one enclosed car anywhere around the area he lived in. It was an oddity of note when he was growing up. Then, at somepoint later, the Touring body was often removing (making it a "bug") or cutoff behind the driver's doors (making it a "cutdown"). I'm trying to capture the point just before that. Here's a photo that I have in my collection of a fenderless roadster from the period, with the splash shields on it. It looks to be lowered about 3 or 4 inches front and back.
T motor all the way! Overhead would be far more interesting and efficient. If you got the coin and the time I would prepare the bottom end for the extra hp.
I've looked into the crank strength issue. I thought about using the 27 Chevy crank. However, new research into T crank breakage indicates that they are plenty strong enough IF the runout is correct. In a test, the runout was off on two out of three T cranks! It is the runout being off that causes the crank to whip and then break. I think, based on that, that it is just a matter of using a T crank with runout within spec. I've got a lot of T cranks. Surely one will be within spec. BTW, it has also been determined that this was the problem with the SureMike (aka SureBreak) crankshaft, too. The ones checked have been way out of spec on runout.
is this possibly a chicken and the egg scenario?? crank whips so it bends out of spec? seeing as brand new t-cranks are hard to come by and henry wasn't known for his parts being out of spec when new.
here's my take (attached) I am not partial to yellow wheels, so I would subdue the color, red interior, chop the winshield down a bit, and lower the body, and decrease the distance between body and running boards I can't wait to see a video of it driving. Very cool touring! EDIT_ looking at the pic I wuldn't chop the shield that much, but I would chop it about 25%
For serious touring I would drop that body on a Model A chassis with a Model B engine and T5. The A chassis is a bolt on and brings with it better brakes at the wheels and the option of going juiced if you want or need too. The T5 is the best choice for a number of reasons...such as being able to turn reasonable RPM's at safe highway speeds. Just a few of my thoughts.
you really can't lower the body (channel) unless you have no knees... Drop the front end by building a suicide perch ala fronty, bring the perch up to the top of the frame rails, this will give a 5" drop and a 4" longer wheel base. you will need to extend the radius arms to the frame though.
The wheels were yellow when I got them (took them off my Tudor). I'm thinking of either 1926/27 Ford Vermillion red or 1932 Ford Apple Green. I haven't decided what to do with the windshield, yet. It is going to be a tough call. I think that a five inch drop in front is going to be too much. My lowering spring is supposed to drop the backend 4 inches...but I don't believe it. I'm thinking 2-2 1/2 inches is more likely what I can expect. A rake to the front is not early Thirties style. Front and back were usually lowered the same amount during that period. My 93 year old uncle, who was a Thirties hotrodder, still makes fun of cars with rakes. Says those fools in the Fifties and Sixties just thought a "jacked up" car meant that they were always going down hill so it would make 'em go faster. (He calls 'em all "jacked up" whether they were lowered in the front or raised in the back.) I could run either a 2 or 3 inch dropped T axle or run a flattened spring with reverse eyes.
Something similar to this is what I have planned for my 26 RPU. I put it together last month, with T frame and engine, and then took it all apart with plans to wait to acquire an A frame and an A or B engine.
I've been asking frame questions about the RPU project on another thread. I think that I have decided on using a shortened TT frame. Still haven't decided on the engine.
Sounds like you've done a fair amount or research, and know what you want for a final look. My digital camera died, otherwise I'd post a photo of my '27 touring taken back in 1972. Personally I think your car would look better with the splash aprons, they'll make the car look lower. Using a period underslung setup will alter the wheelbase and make the car look odd with the rear axle set futher back, so I guess the spring is the only option.
Yeah, I think that you are right about both the splash aprons and the unslinging. Still don't know what I'll do with the windshield. That could make or break the look. Can you scan that photo on your scanner?
I watched "The Choppers" last night, for the first time. There's a very cool 26/27 T touring hot rod in it in one scene. The Choppers was made in 1961. The movie is available on DVD. I checked it out of the local library!
Wow, I can't believe I missed this post the first time (of course, I'm not on the HAMB as much as I used to be). Sounds like you and I are interested in similar styles of T. That's not mine, it's a photoshopped picture from Model T Haven. I've been collecting T parts, and inspiration, for a while now. I think I'm probably going to go full-fendered with a late-'30s, early-'40s influence. The car itself will be 1917-1925, depending on what kind of body I can get ahold of. It will definitely be a touring, though, I've loved those since I was a kid. A 1924 would match my frame. Check out more of my inspiration... Photobucket Model T page -Dave
Thanks for posting that pic and the link. Definitely gives me some inspiration. Keep me posted on your project.
Yes. A city near Grand Rapids, MI (Plainfield, I think), last spring. The guy was having a "hot rod garage sale" and that was the picture used in the auto swapper (Michigan Auto & RV) to advertise. He said he had "lots of T and A parts." Alas, I couldn't go for some reason, but it sounded like there was some cool stuff. He's got another ad in this month's, I think, but with a different picture. www.auto-rv.com if you want to look for it, but their search feature is out of whack recently. -Dave
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