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Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by MrModelT, Nov 12, 2008.

  1. 41 Dave
    Joined: May 23, 2005
    Posts: 2,594

    41 Dave
    Member

    Clayton, I know. You and Chris are the most when it comes to this kind of work. Wish I had 1/10 of your combined fab skills.

    Dave
     
  2. MrModelT
    Joined: Nov 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,745

    MrModelT
    Member

    [​IMG]


    *UPDATE*
    Work on the rear end draws closer to the finish line!

    Got some good progress made on one the last two phases of the rear suspension: the rear shock mounts.

    I've had this design rattling around in my noggin for a week or so now and finally got a chance to bring into a physical existence. I had originally intended to mount the rear shocks in much the same fashion as the front...but figuring how to attach them to the axle tubes without welding anything to the tubes or having them simple slide around them when in use (originally I was just going to use U-bolts and hope they didn't move) was proving to be a problem.

    Then....the other night (dreamland design work strikes again!) It hit me and I came up with this:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    These shock mounting "pads" tie into the new shackle setup via the 9/16th upper support rod and then tie down to the axle tube using my U-bolts (which will bolt through the shocks themselves) as seen here:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Here are the shocks mocked up in position:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I also picked up a cool old "dogbone" radiator cap for it too and spent some time early in the evening drilling the Moto-Meter stud hole larger to fit and getting it mounted:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    ....I think it looks pretty good! :D

    [​IMG]

    More to come so stay tuned! ;)
     
  3. woodbox
    Joined: Jul 11, 2005
    Posts: 1,231

    woodbox
    Member

    Nice solution to your shock mount problem......but radius some corners with the grinder or maybe even a file! Those inside corners may have looked better and be a lot less prone to developing a crack if they had a nice 3 inch or so radius. Just my 2c worth. Keep up the good work......love the dog bone too.....very jealous.
     
  4. MrModelT
    Joined: Nov 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,745

    MrModelT
    Member


    I didn't forget, I hear ya...... just haven't gotten there yet :D

    My first time around with this car, I had several items built, detailed and painted only to find out that it didn't work right and had to be modified or re-made completely after all that work.

    This time around, I'm starting out with patterns first, then fabbing the parts up, but only doing basic clean up work before I assemble it and test that component. once I am satisfied with clearance, function and basic appearance of this chassis (and sign off that no more fab work needs to be done), It will be disassembled, finished cosmetically (including grinding and shaping ;)), painted and reassembled so that I can sign off and move on.

    I don't want to waste my time finish grinding something if it's not going to work and I have to make it again or mess it up having to alter it.
     
  5. 41 Dave
    Joined: May 23, 2005
    Posts: 2,594

    41 Dave
    Member

    Clayton, You got to love your "Dreamland Engineering Dept" ! No busted knuckles or blood dripping off of cut and other assort damages. Your design just comes on through. Do some finishing on the parts and a coat of chassis black - Job done !

    Dave
     
  6. 64 DODGE 440
    Joined: Sep 2, 2006
    Posts: 4,421

    64 DODGE 440
    Member
    from so cal

    Clayton, another trick that works is to make patterns out of cardboard. They won't support weight but can be made with scissors and tape in a lot less time and then used as templates for the "real parts".
     
  7. MrModelT
    Joined: Nov 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,745

    MrModelT
    Member

    I know! Its great not having to deal with all that and just have the idea "pop in there"...apply it in steel and have it just work. Its a great feeling!

    That is a great idea...and one that I have been using RELIGIOUSLY on this rebuild. I did make patterns for the these shock mounts too (forgot to photograph them though), but just as a caution, I won't do any finish work until it's built and I KNOW it works.
     
  8. 41 Dave
    Joined: May 23, 2005
    Posts: 2,594

    41 Dave
    Member

    Clayton, Looks like you are about done with the rear suspension. I will keep it in mind for my '57 Special . . . . Need to do some little things on the frame to get it ready for fab work. Need to find a rear axle as mine is missing the pinion gear. They took it out to make it into a trailer.

    Dave
     
  9. MrModelT
    Joined: Nov 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,745

    MrModelT
    Member

    [​IMG]
    *UPDATE*
    Shock mounts: Part 1

    Made some decent progress on the rear shock mounts and should have them, the front shock mounts and the steering box done tomorrow in my 3-day weekend roadster "progress spectacular" :D

    I have been trying to figure out the upper shock mounts for the rear shocks....but when I got to the shop, One of our shop buddies (who is working on a '48 Power Wagon) handed me these:

    [​IMG]

    Then I got the patterns made for the brackets that will hold them to the frame:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    And to add some correctness and authenticity...

    [​IMG]

    And here is what we get...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Also dug these up to solve my front shock-to-axle mounting problem. They fit perfect and will solve my problem.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    ...Stay tuned!
     
  10. Bigcheese327
    Joined: Sep 16, 2001
    Posts: 6,694

    Bigcheese327
    Member

    So are those from a Power Wagon? They look aesthetically perfect. Especially with the rivets.

    -Dave
     
  11. MrModelT
    Joined: Nov 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,745

    MrModelT
    Member

    Yes, those shock mounts came from his 48' Power Wagon. Our buddy Gene is building a 4-door crew cab version with a 4 BTA Cat, Dana 60s, the works. He didn't need these, so he gave them to me.

    I love the way they look....and I agree, the rivets make it.
     
  12. 41 Dave
    Joined: May 23, 2005
    Posts: 2,594

    41 Dave
    Member

    Clayton, Sounds like you are wrapping up items off of your "short list". Bet it makes you feel like you are getting closer to the finish line for the restoration of your roadster. Going to be one neat Hot Rod Roadster !

    Dave
     
  13. MrModelT
    Joined: Nov 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,745

    MrModelT
    Member

    [​IMG]

    *UPDATE*
    The rear shocks are DONE!!!!!

    Had the day off today, so I put in a decent days worth at the shop and got the rear shocks, shock mounts and rear suspension DONE!

    YAY! :D

    Here is how the upper rear shock brackets came out:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    ...and here is the finished product mounted up on the frame. I designed these brackets to use all preexisting bolt holes in the frame for mounting...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Then after some drilling and tweaking....I got the shocks bolted up into place...

    [​IMG]

    ...and here is the whole mess done..

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]









    [​IMG]

    Stay tuned for more! :D
     
  14. MrModelT
    Joined: Nov 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,745

    MrModelT
    Member

    It's a GREAT feeling, especially after today's progress. I can't wait to see it all done. :D
     
  15. youngster
    Joined: Feb 26, 2006
    Posts: 533

    youngster
    Member Emeritus
    from Minnesota

    Are your rear shocks gonna clear the turtle deck or are you planning on trimming it?

    Ron
     
  16. MrModelT
    Joined: Nov 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,745

    MrModelT
    Member

    They will interfere a little bit with the inner lip on the Turtle deck, so that will need to be C-notched appropriately...but I wont have to do so on the outside. :D
     
  17. grazy
    Joined: Jun 21, 2008
    Posts: 223

    grazy
    Member

    I think I've read this thread all the way to the end so many times I am actually begining to dream about doing a Model T.
     
  18. MrModelT
    Joined: Nov 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,745

    MrModelT
    Member


    :D I think ya should!

    Ts are pretty easy to learn and work with...and they are a HECK of allot of fun!
     
  19. 41 Dave
    Joined: May 23, 2005
    Posts: 2,594

    41 Dave
    Member

    Clayton, Got to agree with your above statement. "T's" are very basic and almost the perfect beginners car. Maybe my "Heinz Special" will fall into that category. Hope you guys have no further problems and both cars are finished and roadworthy in a short period.

    Dave
     
  20. MrModelT
    Joined: Nov 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,745

    MrModelT
    Member

    I would say they are THE perfect beginner's car. Simple, affordable, reliable, easy to service and maintain.... and with the aftermarket parts market for them (for speed and drive-ability) and because of their production volume and popularity, a T can be made to function reliably in modern everyday traffic...

    ...even 100 years after it's introduction.
     
  21. TexasSpeed
    Joined: Nov 2, 2009
    Posts: 4,631

    TexasSpeed
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Texas

    The shock mounts look great! Do you plan to finish up all the suspension pieces you've fabricated up before mounting the drivetrain and body or are you going to get everything on the frame before deciding to finish the fabricated pieces?
     
  22. MrModelT
    Joined: Nov 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,745

    MrModelT
    Member

    I happy with how they came out.

    My plan is to take the build one stage at a time...and not get ahead of myself.

    Stage 1 is getting all the suspension and steering fabricated, assembled, adjusted, tested before doing all the finish clean up work before disassembling it, painting it and final assembly.

    Stage 2 involves assembling, plumbing and installing the engine, transmission, O.D. and fuel system before the body goes back on.

    Stage 3 involves reinstalling the body, wiring and final "odds and ends" before test runs.

    I plan to be at the beginning of stage 3 by the end of March or beginning of April.
     
  23. TexasSpeed
    Joined: Nov 2, 2009
    Posts: 4,631

    TexasSpeed
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Texas

    That's what I wanted to know. Whether you were going to do the final assembly of the frame before putting the rest of the car on or at the end.

    Solid plan. Can't wait to see some more progress. (no pressure)


    iPhone - TJJ app
     
  24. MrModelT
    Joined: Nov 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,745

    MrModelT
    Member

    That is the only way I can see doing it....otherwise it get too cluttered and you can loose track of what your working on. I did that last time I built it and swore I would not repeat that mistake.

    ..I'm starting with the Chassis/suspension...I'm gonna FINISH the chassis/suspension before I move on to something else.
     
  25. Bigcheese327
    Joined: Sep 16, 2001
    Posts: 6,694

    Bigcheese327
    Member

    The order of battle has always been fruitful ground for thought to me, because, while I agree it makes the most sense to finish the chassis before moving on to powertrain and body, it seems like you put yourself at a disadvantage if you don't get everything mocked up first to dial in the proportions. Then you can blow it back apart to finalize everything.

    In a way, the first iteration of your roadster was the dialing in (and how!), and now you're finalizing everything.

    -Dave
     
  26. MrModelT
    Joined: Nov 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,745

    MrModelT
    Member

    Agreed, but of course as I see it, you need a good platform to put that drive train when assembling.

    I do agree that the first go around was the "dialing in" phase, but when this new incarnation is complete...it will be an entirely different car in need of more "dialing in" :D
     
  27. MrModelT
    Joined: Nov 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,745

    MrModelT
    Member

    [​IMG]

    *UPDATE*
    Moving on the the front shock mounts


    Wednesday night was slow, so I plugged away on the new front axle clamp bolt assemblies for the front shocks to hold them to the front axle.

    I started with some big old leaf spring U-bolts from a '27 Dodge I posted about last week:

    [​IMG]

    They were a little too long stud wise and the two that would be used as the outboard clamps were too narrow...on account of the axle's taper.

    ...This meant surgery :D

    [​IMG]

    ...and after the welding work was done..

    [​IMG]

    ...and all installed:

    [​IMG]

    Now just so you know.....I'm not done with them yet, this was just a test fit. I still have plenty of clean up work to do...so nobody get their undies in a twist :D lol!

    ...I do know how to use a grinder :rolleyes: :D

    I also received a wonderful "care package" from Jim at Bubba's Ignition. He graciously offered to build up and donate one of their Mallory "Automatic Advance" T distributors (a direct replacement for my original) to the project.

    It was too kind of him and I can thank him enough :D

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    This weekend I will have the shock clamps finished and the Panhard Bar built...and if I have time, will start in on the steering mount.

    Stay tuned!
     
    Last edited: Feb 23, 2012
  28. Jalopy Journalist
    Joined: Nov 4, 2011
    Posts: 255

    Jalopy Journalist
    Member
    from Austin, TX

    It's still my Number 1 favorite prewar build. But, Number 1, I would like you to meet Number 2.
     
  29. MrModelT
    Joined: Nov 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,745

    MrModelT
    Member

    Ah yes...I know this car :D I read his blog...impressive trip and an impressive car.
     
  30. Crazybillybob
    Joined: Nov 8, 2010
    Posts: 316

    Crazybillybob
    Member
    from Ohio

    Clayton,
    When I saw the original drawings you did of the friction shocks I assumed you had built the ones that you were mounting on the T. After looking closely at the photos it looks like the rear ones have parts that were cast. So did you make them or find them?

    The mounts look good, even if they aren't "finished" yet :rolleyes:.

    CBB
     

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