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Projects My '26 Roadster / Vintage photo search

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by MrModelT, Nov 12, 2008.

  1. MrModelT
    Joined: Nov 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,674

    MrModelT
    Member

    *QUICK UPDATE*
    Got my new parts!!!.... :D

    Been waiting on the my new goodies to repair the drive shaft. Picked up a modern tapered roller bearing replacement spool kit and a new u-joint pin :D...

    The kit...

    [​IMG]

    The retrofitted "spool"..
    [​IMG]

    The new modern tapered roller bearing...
    [​IMG]

    the gasket kit..
    [​IMG]

    ..New U-joint pin...
    [​IMG]



    Wednesday and this weekend will be fun :D

    More to come!
     
  2. Diggerdave
    Joined: Mar 20, 2011
    Posts: 19

    Diggerdave
    Member

    her,s my 27
     

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  3. C5rider
    Joined: Oct 4, 2009
    Posts: 112

    C5rider
    Member
    from FLA

    VERY, VERY cool car Clayton! Next week, maybe we can get together for a quick chat. Keep up the great work!
     
  4. MrModelT
    Joined: Nov 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,674

    MrModelT
    Member

    Thanks Andy! :D

    I will look forward to it!.. been a long time since we last talked. Give me a call anytime
     
  5. MrModelT
    Joined: Nov 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,674

    MrModelT
    Member

    Nice looking '27 :D ...gotta nice, really low stance!
     
  6. MrModelT
    Joined: Nov 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,674

    MrModelT
    Member

    *UPDATE*
    Installing the "Spool" and the new bearings...

    [​IMG]


    Last night I got to play with the new retrofitted drive shaft spool fitted with modern tapered roller bearings. These are a great and hearty improvement over the original Hyatt style roller bearings and better for high mileage and high speed applications.

    First, the correct shim thickness needs to be selected for the proper pinion gear-to-ring gear mesh and clearance. To do this, the axle case is split and locked in a vise with the spool mocked up in place minus the drive shaft and torque tube:

    [​IMG]

    After putting the drive shaft back together, I checked and re-did some of my safety wiring on the ring gear before sealing the axle case up for the last time:

    [​IMG]

    ....was directed to a great tech article here on the H.A.M.B. on how to safety wire correctly...and put it to use:

    [​IMG]

    The finished, sealed, adjusted and properly rebuilt drive shaft assembly:

    [​IMG]

    I also added lock washers to the drive shaft/spool bolts this time around to keep them from walking out under vibration...something that I had problems with in the past:

    [​IMG]



    With this complete, I am free to move on to the rear end lowering brackets, something I know is of interest to quite a few of you. Chris has the 9/16th suspension grade steel rod on order and we should have it today or tomorrow that that we can get started Saturday.

    Stay tuned! :D


     
  7. SaucyNordicTart
    Joined: Oct 18, 2011
    Posts: 25

    SaucyNordicTart
    Member

  8. Bigcheese327
    Joined: Sep 16, 2001
    Posts: 6,691

    Bigcheese327
    Member

    I am tuned!! :D

    -Dave
     
  9. TexasSpeed
    Joined: Nov 2, 2009
    Posts: 4,618

    TexasSpeed
    Member

    Looks great!


    iPhone - TJJ app
     
  10. 64 DODGE 440
    Joined: Sep 2, 2006
    Posts: 4,283

    64 DODGE 440
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from so cal

    Clayton, hate to ruin your day but...though you have some of the safety wiring correct, (lower picture and left set of bolts on top picture), the top and right hand set of bolts in the first picture are incorrect. The wire should be routed so that it rotationally prevents the bolts from unscrewing and there should be no curvature or slack between bolts. Sorry for the bad news, but having 20 plus years as a licensed aircraft mechanic (A&P with IA) I have seen a lot of safety wire, done a lot of wiring and seen the results of parts coming loose from improper wiring. Back up a few steps...take a deep breath and re-do it correctly. far better than having to repair it later, you have done a beautiful job on the car and I am looking forward to seeing your stories from a successful trip to Bonneville.

    We're with you in spirit, you have built a great car.
     
  11. MrModelT
    Joined: Nov 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,674

    MrModelT
    Member


    To be honest...the fact that I didn't do it right and have to redo it again does kinda ruin my day. I REALLY don't want to take that axle apart again...ruin all of my new gaskets and have to screw with safety wire again! I have already re-done it 3 times, but you're right...I need to redo it correctly.

    ...1 step forward, 2 steps back :(

    "you have done a beautiful job on the car and I am looking forward to seeing your stories from a successful trip to Bonneville"

    Thank you and I look forward to that too.
     
  12. 64 DODGE 440
    Joined: Sep 2, 2006
    Posts: 4,283

    64 DODGE 440
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from so cal

    Better to have it right than have to fix it later. Keep at it, I love all the little details you have built into the car.
     
  13. MrModelT
    Joined: Nov 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,674

    MrModelT
    Member


    You are very right...like my Father always taught me..."If a job is worth doing, it's worth doing right".

    It is just a little frustrating to have to go back and redo it again, but I would rather be safe then sorry in the long run. I would actually like to MAKE IT to Bonneville and back with no issues....:rolleyes:

    Thanks. I certainly will keep at it...not backing down on this one. The details are my favorite part because to me, they make the build...don't care what it is.

    You should have seen the "Safety Wires" I pulled out.....a piece of bailing wire inserted between each set of bolts, then just bent over....not twisted...just bent over :D ....every single ring gear bolt was lose :eek:

    ...funny thing is, it was probably like that for 50 years or more.
     
  14. TULSA
    Joined: Sep 27, 2008
    Posts: 659

    TULSA
    Member
    from Tulsa

    I love this thread! Read the whole thing today. Keep at it!
     
  15. MrModelT
    Joined: Nov 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,674

    MrModelT
    Member


    Thanks! Wow, it's kinda become a heck of long read...don't know if I could get through it all that fast! :D
     
  16. MrModelT
    Joined: Nov 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,674

    MrModelT
    Member

    *UPDATE*
    Re-lowering the rear end: Chapter 1

    [​IMG]

    Well, after a quick correction on the safety wire brought up thankfully by 64 DODGE 440...it was on to finally "mock-up" assembly of the rear axle (hubs, wheels, etc) and getting it mocked up under the chassis with the rest of the driveline, including the Chicago transmission case:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Chris was kind enough to call into Pacific Machine Tool Steel and order us some good lengths of 4140 suspension grade 9/16th steel rod, the beginning of our lowering brackets:

    [​IMG]

    ...Then after getting the rear spring mounted up under the frame..

    [​IMG]

    ..I spent the remainder of the evening working out the shape, dimensions and specifics of the shackle plates in the form of card board templates:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]






    [​IMG]

    Mosre to come, stay tuned! :D
     
  17. 41 Dave
    Joined: May 23, 2005
    Posts: 2,594

    41 Dave
    Member

    Clayton, Way too cool my man ! Cleanly executed and will significantly lower the rear of your "T". Looking forward to further steps as you lower the rear of your "T" !

    Dave
     
  18. The_DropOut
    Joined: Mar 4, 2008
    Posts: 391

    The_DropOut
    Member

    Wow, what a great thread. Man this just keeps getting better. Lots of folks are really staying tuned, as am I. Great job! This garage is busy, there's no doubt.
     
  19. youngster
    Joined: Feb 26, 2006
    Posts: 533

    youngster
    Member Emeritus
    from Minnesota

    How much clearence do you have between the frame and the radius rods?

    You wouldn't have an extra set of the shackle mounts that go in the brake backing plate. I have two sets and they are all worn too much to use.

    Ron
     
  20. MrModelT
    Joined: Nov 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,674

    MrModelT
    Member


    I would have to measure the exact clearance, but I believe it is about 3.5 to 4 inches. Even with such little clearance, I have never had interference issues.

    I believe I do have a set or two ( standard early T and 1-ton TT...like the ones on mine) that are in good shape. Will get some pictures.
     
  21. MrModelT
    Joined: Nov 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,674

    MrModelT
    Member

    Thank you Dave! ...It's not so "clean" yet, but it will be soon.

    Thanks man! I would hope that is keeps getting better! :D

    ..So when are ya gonna come out to the shop for a visit?
     
  22. MrModelT
    Joined: Nov 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,674

    MrModelT
    Member

  23. 41 Dave
    Joined: May 23, 2005
    Posts: 2,594

    41 Dave
    Member

    Clayton, Tell me you would drop to the "BUMP" mode ? I believe that there is plenty of gear heads in HAMBland that visit just on the chance that there will be new info.

    Dave
     
  24. MrModelT
    Joined: Nov 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,674

    MrModelT
    Member

    Yeah, sorry....just kinda went into autopilot mode from the old days when I first joined the H.A.M.B.

    I know there are PLENTY that read this regularly :D
     
  25. MrModelT
    Joined: Nov 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,674

    MrModelT
    Member

    *UPDATE*
    Lowering the rear axle: Chapter 2

    [​IMG]

    Last night I got some time to get some more progress made on the new rear shackles. I picked a nice heavy slab of 3/8th inch steel plate from the steel pile and went to work with the plasma cutter....my favorite tool :D

    [​IMG]

    After I got them cut out and some basic clean up work done I drilled the upper 9/16th holes so they could be test fit (these holes will need to be opened up bigger later on) so that I could find out how much clearance I had and or needed to add around the e-brake cam levers.

    The clearance was a little tight, so I stuck one of the plates in the vise, hit it with the torch and put a little "Z" bend in it so that it would clear:

    [​IMG]

    looking down from above:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    With a simple C-clamp installed to keep the spring attached to the spring, I pulled the blocks out on one side and gave it a quick and gentle test....of which it preformed exactly as I had hoped and planned! :D

    [​IMG]

    If all goes as planed....I hope to have the shackles complete and the rear end hung this weekend :D

    ..stay tuned!
     
  26. Planing those to shape is gonna be hard work, Clayton :)

    Looks fantastic- keep up the great work!!!
     
  27. Jonny69
    Joined: Jul 24, 2007
    Posts: 275

    Jonny69
    Member
    from England

    Wow, a complete rebuild! Glad I tuned in when I did :D

    Looking good dude, this is my kinda technology!
     
  28. MrModelT
    Joined: Nov 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,674

    MrModelT
    Member

    The clearance between the rear radius rods and the frame on my car is between 2 1/2" and 2 5/8"

    This may change during the course of the rear end work.
     
  29. Jonny69
    Joined: Jul 24, 2007
    Posts: 275

    Jonny69
    Member
    from England

    That new motor of yours looks AMAZING. Like literally brand new. I've got a lot to read at work tomorrow... :D
     
  30. MrModelT
    Joined: Nov 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,674

    MrModelT
    Member

    Thanks! It is all new on the inside: bearings, pistons, valves...everything!

    ..you'll enjoy reading over the specs on it though :D
     

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