Projects My 1st build - '30 sedan/'32 chassis - UPDATE 11/12/13 PROJECT COMPLETE

X-2 I would use about 1 1/2 inches of rubber fuel line on each end for flex and vibration breaking

 

Although its certainly an improvement, everyone wants you to err on the side of safety. Chassis flex is real, whether you're launching hard or pulling into a gas station, the body/chassis/engine all move at slightly different rates.

And if I'm not mistaken, I think aluminum lines are also a big no no. They're soft and split easily under pressure. Let someone else chime in to verify, but I believe steel or stainless steel is preferred.

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as in everything else in this build, I went ahead and bought a Powermaster Alternator PowerGen 90 amp 12 volt long body to replace the generator and regulator. I just could not get out of my mind what might happen if it failed on a trip in the middle of now where and I have decided to run a fairly large hidden stereo system. So, should have the same look, being an old black long body but with more modern voltage output, etc.

 

Turning the page on a bad-@$$ build then... looking forward to more of your car's progress - she's a sweet looking thang.

rg

 

Thanks a lot man!

 

Carry on.

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Nice Build! Thanks for sharing

 

Awesome build thread, definitely subsrcibing. Do you have any pictures of doing the rails and attaching the new rails to the cab? I know I'm going to have to do that at some point...

 

Fresh build, looking forward to see the end.....

 

I think you should shoot the paint yourself with single stage, the attention to detail you've shown thru the build and the timeline you've kept make me think, getting locked in "paint jail" won't do it for you. $4k, you can do it for much less with quality materials and be proud of your work
This car deserves to be shiny

 

Thanks... Leaning that way... Might do the best I can body wise and see if I can get somebody (pro) to do a final block and primer... Shoot it myself. My neighbor and friend is Reed Moffit who blocks and buffs for a living. He buffs all of Bill Lindig's cars including last years AMBR winner and he has said he would help do it so I have been thinking if I lay enough paint he could work his magic. I honestly could use that money on other things right now.

 

Yes, or did, been working all day and last night trying to recover my hard drive on my home computer which appears to of died. I have never backed up anything so thru the year years all my photos have made there way over to this dead drive. Praying tomorrow I can get the data off somehow and buy an external for future back ups.... Longer story short, if I can find them I will post them... I have quite a few... I only posted a minimal of photos. I have or had many more if I can get them I'll add them.

Thanks for your interest!

 

thanks... attached are all I could salvage from my fried hard drive.

I took 1"x3" and sliced it and layed it on top of the frame rails. I had to put slices in it horizontally and vertically to match the frame. I then drilled holes and bolted them to the chassis. I went the route I did because the previous guy had planned a heavy channeling and cut everything out of the inside. I had to rebuild everything from the top edge of the door opening in. All other tube is thick walled 1"x1"




I then took pipe and welded to the 1 x 3" centered over the body bolts before bending my sheet metal that would get welded back to edge of existing body giving me the "counterbored hole" look.



here's how I did the back floor... I bought an Eastwood bead roller and kind of had to learn as I went i.e. the curvy bead lines. holding the sheet metal with one hand and cranking the lever with your other hand is a trick also...

 

Thanks for the advice.

 

good luck, if you have any questions just shoot me an email.

Basically after you memic the top of the chassis and bolt it in place locate your body where you want it and make sure everything is square and doors close, etc. then weld it to the rails and go from there... I wouldn't unbolt it again until you are finished with your entire floor or body for that matter... I have had mine on and off at least 3 times and I have no flex or shift in the body. Good luck!

 

I could read all day long on how to do something and not figure it out, but as soon as I see it, it all just clicked. My subrails may not be bad, but I'm guessing they are...

 

I would suggest getting the entire body blasted with soda or sugar sand. Easier on the old metal. This will show you exactly what you have to work with. Unfortunately for me, mine was completely gone all the way up to the outer lip that is just below the door when it's closed. I didn't do any research and try to recreate what was there since the stock chassis is flat and the '32 curves up and back down in the rear. You might be able to use your sub rails up to the point where the '32 frame starts curving up then you need to modify it and get your body positioned how you want it then go from there.

 

I kind of like the look of the paint on the outside of the cab now. But, I think soda blasting everything would be a better option depending on the cost. I'll start my own thread soon detailing the step by step process I'm thinking about using to see if it matches up with what other people are doing.

 

Only have the inside shoot with media. You need the clean metal, will make welding a ton easier. Good luck, looking forward to seeing it.

 

Thanks for the advice. I was actually thinking about cleaning the dash off, and have recently thought about cleaning the entire inside because, like you said, it's easier for welding and I have to weld a lot. I'll have to start tracking down some companies in So. Md...

 

Following

 

Off to paint!!

 

Still going for the BORDEAUX RED?

 

yes, but I had to go through color books until I could find a color that looked very close. Appearantly nobody except a German paint company has ever cross reference the old VW color. Once I decide on the correct shade I will post the color code since I have been asked that by a few guys. I should have some paint boards to look at later this week.

 

Nice RAPTOR truck ! Think it can pull the load ?

 

try Howell, they are quick and have most parts you will need... good guys

http://www.fordor.com

 

I am new to this thread but have now gone through it twice just to enjoy the excellence of your vision, execution and perseverance. Thank you for sharing.

paul

 

Very, very nice build. There is a 30 Model A sitting on the side of the road on the way to our family ranch that my Dad has said has been there since he was a kid. I have dreamed of one day asking about it and doing something like what you did but without nearly the same end result. Cant wait to see the car finished!!

 

thanks guys! much appreciated

 

awesome project man