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My 1957 Ford F100 Buildup

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by atothec, Sep 11, 2008.

  1. atothec
    Joined: Sep 8, 2008
    Posts: 21

    atothec
    Member
    from USA

    So I turned 21 this past week and decided to take on a new project. My father passed away a few years back and left behind this old pile of rust. I remember when it was running we used it to get wood and haul stuff around town. I can still remember the way that y-block V8 sounded. So naturally, i would like to restore this for nostalgic reasons and i just think it would be a sick looking truck! I have a little experience doing body work, and feel fairly comfortable with that part of the restoration (kind of looking forward to it actually) but dont have very much experience with engines (which is what i think is going to be the real project here).

    I plan on doing this in stages-
    Stage 1) Gather information, ask opinions, get estimates.
    Stage 2) Get the truck running/ mechanically sound.
    Stage 3) Restore/ Customize the body.


    Here are lots of pics, followed by what im sure are the first of many, many questions to be asked in this thread.



    The Beast-
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Vin Plate
    [​IMG]

    Dektop background-worthy ford emblem pic
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    this ones chipped off
    [​IMG]

    Windows seem good
    [​IMG]

    good side of the bumper
    [​IMG]

    bad side
    [​IMG]

    One door has a keyhole, one does not. Does this mean doors were swapped?
    [​IMG]

    Cracked rear glass
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    A Bed of Rust-
    [​IMG]

    The truck was actually storing old oil so maybe it didnt rust through TOO bad LOL
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Straight body
    [​IMG]

    Dent
    [​IMG]

    rusty door
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Tinman
    Joined: Mar 6, 2001
    Posts: 963

    Tinman
    Member
    from Orange, CA

    As i understand it, the passenger-only outer door lock is one of the differences between a standard and deluxe cab truck.

    That looks like a lot of work, but should be well worth it for you. Good luck!
     
  3. atothec
    Joined: Sep 8, 2008
    Posts: 21

    atothec
    Member
    from USA

    Well i guess thats all the pics i can post... Heres a link to the rest of the pics

    http://s52.photobucket.com/albums/g2/magicwhiteguy/

    So, on to my questions-

    1) What do you guys think?
    2) Is this a "3 on the tree" because the shifter is on the steering column?
    3) What are the shifter positions? Top is park, middle neutral, and bottom drive?
    4) I tried to "turn the engine over" by rotating the crank, the radiator fan would rotate, but when i put a lug wrench on the bottom where i thought the crank pulley was the nut on the pulley would start to unscrew, and couldnt get it to rotate the other way (told you im a motor newbie)
    5) What are the first steps i should go through to start this thing up after years of sitting? Flush radiator, change oil, new gas, new battery/starter/ plugs, etc?
    6) Is it a good idea to start hitting spots with WD-40 or PB-Blaster that i know ill be working on? (bed mounts, various body mounts, etc)

    THANKS FOR ANY INFO!

    -Andrew
     
  4. atothec
    Joined: Sep 8, 2008
    Posts: 21

    atothec
    Member
    from USA

    Oh yeah-

    7) I can Decode the first section of the VIN, whats the rest of those numbers? 3.70 is axle gear ratio right? 3LD is... light duty trans?
     

  5. Saxon
    Joined: Aug 9, 2008
    Posts: 2,157

    Saxon
    Member
    from MN

    Diamond in the rough. Yea keep the y-block, lot's of great new parts for the y-block now days.

    Keep at it and it'll be a killer ride.

    We just received (not the way I wanted to get it) a 57 panel my late father-in-law, left it to my wife. Lot of cool memories.
     
  6. atothec
    Joined: Sep 8, 2008
    Posts: 21

    atothec
    Member
    from USA

    Sorry to hear that Saxon.
    Yep... lots and lots of body work here. I think it would be nice to do it in sections, notice looks are last on my list If i could just get the thing to run I'd be real happy.
     
  7. FoMoCoPower
    Joined: Feb 2, 2007
    Posts: 2,490

    FoMoCoPower
    Member

    It was common couretesy or something along those lines to put the lock cylinder on the passenger side only,it encouraged you to enter the vehicle on the curb-side instead of the street-side. BTW,if you push on the door handle the opposite direction that you would to open the door,that locks it.
     
  8. atothec
    Joined: Sep 8, 2008
    Posts: 21

    atothec
    Member
    from USA

    Thats weird. So then would this lock cylinder lock both doors?
     
  9. Saxon
    Joined: Aug 9, 2008
    Posts: 2,157

    Saxon
    Member
    from MN

    Thank you, as well to you.
     
  10. chaddilac
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 13,866

    chaddilac
    Member

    Awesome truck to start with... I just picked up a 59 custom cab yesterday!!

    Got to Mac's Antiques (google the site) and get you a catalog, then go to dennis carpentar's site and get another catalog, their both free!
     
  11. atothec
    Joined: Sep 8, 2008
    Posts: 21

    atothec
    Member
    from USA

    Done and Done. Are there any other good books for the orphan years, or any essential general restoration guides i should be reading?
     
  12. 57f100
    Joined: Jun 12, 2007
    Posts: 63

    57f100
    Member

    You have a lot of work ahead of you. Fortunately these trucks are getting more popular everyday, so finding parts seems to be getting easier. I agree with saxonhous that Y-block is a keeper. Check out http://www.y-blocksforever.com/ and http://www.ford-y-block.com/ for lots of information and parts for that motor. I'm jealous since I'm stuck with a 460. Good Luck
     
  13. Dan10
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 386

    Dan10
    Member
    from Joplin

    3 on the tree is just a standard H put on the column, Meaning pull back and go up for Reverse, back and down is first, forward and up is second, forward and down is third. The middle is neutral. Start hitting any bolt you expect to take off with PB-blaster for a couple of weeks. Sounds like the Y-block might be stuck, take out the plugs and pour a little diesel down each hole, and try it again in a week.
     
  14. atothec
    Joined: Sep 8, 2008
    Posts: 21

    atothec
    Member
    from USA

    Anybody know what size y-block it is?

    [​IMG]
     
  15. atothec
    Joined: Sep 8, 2008
    Posts: 21

    atothec
    Member
    from USA


    So is that the correct method then.. turn the nut on the crank pulley to turn the engine over? Clockwise or counter-clockwise?
     
  16. 28chevrat
    Joined: Oct 11, 2005
    Posts: 322

    28chevrat
    Member

    If the engine doesn't turn then try putting some Marvel Mystery Oil in each cylinder and let it soak for a few days. Then try turing the crank clockwise to see it if she loosens up, careful not to strip the bolt. You will need all the stuff you mentioned to get her running, plugs, points, wires, etc.... Looks like a great project and a great way to remember somebody. Good luck.....
     
  17. atothec
    Joined: Sep 8, 2008
    Posts: 21

    atothec
    Member
    from USA

    Right, i turned the nut to the left (counter- clockwise) and the crank pulley nut came loose, i didnt really turn it all that hard clockwise though, how hard should i have to turn it?
     
  18. Saxon
    Joined: Aug 9, 2008
    Posts: 2,157

    Saxon
    Member
    from MN

    Take your time. I pulled the plugs on a 30yr barnfind flatty and put wd40 and marvel mystery in each plug hole for about 2 weeks before it turned. But it did and after replacing, ingintion parts, fuel pump, and rebuidling the carb. it fired.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J4gbgkD6CIU
     
  19. atothec
    Joined: Sep 8, 2008
    Posts: 21

    atothec
    Member
    from USA

    Sounds like a plan for tonight :D. just how liberal should i be with the WD-40? and can the marvel mystery oil be found at any auto parts place?
     
  20. captainjunk#2
    Joined: Mar 13, 2008
    Posts: 4,392

    captainjunk#2
    Member

    good luck on your project , i hope you save it
     
  21. kustomizingkid
    Joined: Sep 6, 2008
    Posts: 225

    kustomizingkid
    Member

    Just pull out each plug and dump a decent amount of MMO (marvel mystery oil0 down each cylinder and then just let it sit, don't get in too much of a hurry, let the oil soak in.
     
  22. You're going to learn a whole bunch of new stuff and develop a lot of new abilities, very soon! Remain calm. Have fun.
     
  23. parksquijada
    Joined: Aug 6, 2008
    Posts: 316

    parksquijada
    Member
    from norcal

    enine could be 239, 272, 292 or 312. look for knob on dash w/od or solinoid on side of trans tailshaft. would be overdrive. thats good. look for oil lines (mickey mouse) to rocker covers. means cam bearing spun shutting ogg oil to rockers. also probably vacuum wipers. change over to electric or get booster type fuel pump (little vac lines coming out top of pump. also get manual as y-blocks have funny stuff like timing marks on side of gears pointing i think to left and something like 32 links apart. find out. also fist 9" ford rear. good!. yours is only square truck w/ single headlights. keep it. also i think easy to dual exhaust by turning manifold upside down and swap side for side. not sure on that one though. lots of tri power manifolds on ebay. or find 57 up 4 barrel manifold, will fit hooley four barrel like later carbs. used to have a few of these in old days. one w/430 lincoln. animal!...goood luck
     
  24. FoMoCoPower
    Joined: Feb 2, 2007
    Posts: 2,490

    FoMoCoPower
    Member

    It is not a 239,how do I know? The intake.

    And if it is the original motor it will be either a 272 or 292.

    312`s did not come in trucks.
     
  25. atothec
    Joined: Sep 8, 2008
    Posts: 21

    atothec
    Member
    from USA

    Dumb question, but the trans has to be in neutral to turn the engine correct?:eek:
     
  26. 65fordguy
    Joined: Jul 4, 2008
    Posts: 1,451

    65fordguy

    Dang... Thats one bed that has seen alot of action lol.

    Im builiding a 65 f100... and let me tell ya. your in for a heck of a ride.
     
  27. No, it will start in gear, even if the clutch is out, so be carefull. I'll bet the engine is a 272 or 292. No real way to tell without tearing it apart. Turning the engine will take some grunt, probably need a good long pry or cheater bar. You might alo take the plugs out to rotate it, it will not build compression that way and turn easier. Another way to turn it I ave done (although not the best way if you are not sure if it is stuck or not) is to pull it with another car/truck with the tranny in gear, foot off the clutch. This will make the engine spin.

    Good looking truck, I've owned a few 60's. Same basic design, different hood and grill. Here's my 1960 4x4:

    [​IMG]
     
  28. atothec
    Joined: Sep 8, 2008
    Posts: 21

    atothec
    Member
    from USA

    9/16/08 UPDATE:

    Well I bought a few cans of PbBlaster and gave the truck a shower. I might be buying stock in this company. Got the clutch to engage and can shift through the gears, all instrument pannel switches seem to engage, parking/emergency brake works, and, the best thing: THE ENGINE TURNS OVER!! Sprayed some PbBlaster w/ marvel mystery oil in the cylinders and let it sit a day, went to spray some other stuff down and gave the crankshaft a try and it turned right over! I sprayed some more in there to let it soak a little longer. Spark plugs were black. Cooling system (freeze?) plugs leaked antifreeze and came out upon inspection. Generator seems to turn freely with crankshaft/ radiator fan assembly.
    So here's what im thinking... I remember my father saying it ran when he parked it, meaning he drove it to its resting place of 10 or so years, put it in park, and either cut the engine off, or let it die one last time. I believe that this truck had a bad carburator and as it wasnt a daily driver, just a woods vehicle, it never got the priority for a few hundred dollar carb rebuild. So, with the way everything else has been going (clutch seems to work, trans shifts through, etc) I might just need a carb and the usual tune up parts :cool:

    Questions-
    1) How long should I keep spraying down cylinders with PbBlaster/ oil before I get a battery, etc and try to start it up?
    2) What all is necessary to replace before attempting to start it? Id like to keep costs way down so if i can reuse spark plugs/ generator/ plug wires/ original distributor, etc to diagnose whether or not i can go much further with this project without getting too expensive, that would be awesome. I would like to diagnose parts as i go and keep it cheap.

    Pics:

    Overdrive? Silver/chrome button:
    [​IMG]

    Coolant (Casting? Freeze?) plugs:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Might have to flush this sucker...
    [​IMG]
     
  29. Saxon
    Joined: Aug 9, 2008
    Posts: 2,157

    Saxon
    Member
    from MN

    I'm sure there is a bunch of people on here that could give you a lot better advice but.

    I would start by....
    Replacing that freeze plug,
    Fluids change, oil etc. never hurts,
    You can clean up the plugs and use them temporarily, inspect and clean out the dist, cap.
    Was there a air cleaner on it? Looks like from the one pict that there may have not been? Might want to check if anything has dropped down in to the intake (or setup a nest)
    If it is turning over fairly easily, then you could try and turn it with the starter, if not let it sit some more.
    If it turns easily get a battery or pull one from your car
    If it turns with the starter without any weird sounds, dump a little gas down the throat and see what happens.

    Chances are that it'll need more then this but this could keep you busy for a day or two. Eventually you'll want to do a compression test to see if a rebuild is in order (which is never a bad idea anyway).
     
  30. Saxon
    Joined: Aug 9, 2008
    Posts: 2,157

    Saxon
    Member
    from MN

    Do you live in a cold climate? Has the coolant be in the truck for 10yrs?
     

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