The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by sevenevez, Oct 27, 2010.
Yea , sounds like the brakes got really hot & locked up . Might want to check them & re-adjust 'em .
you need to take the edge off of the shoes! i replaces my back brakes and a friend told me to shave the ends down just a bit, when new from the factory they have a beveled edge. if you dont do this he said they will lock up! take the drum off and take a file to them, should fix it right up!
forgot to tell you shave the edge where the drum curves, leading edge if the shoe, both sides.
my gut feeling is they are too tight. i will try the adjuster. thanks for the quick response
ahh, never heard that. its definitely too tight. if i shave/file that edge i wont need to bleed them again will i?
no just leave them mounted, take the drum off and just file away, you want a taper is all. if they are left square they tend to lock up. the top and the bottom of the shoe, just put a curve on it.
perfect. i will try that. and thank you for the reply. i really appreciate the knowledge
yea no problem!
Make sure the pushrod in the master cylinder is allowing the piston to fully return to the seat. I had the exact thing happen to a non-HAMB car. I ended up using some flat washers between the master cyl. and the booster.
thanks for chiming in with the info "Artfrombama". I will check out the master cylinder also tomorrow when i get home.
What would i do without the H.A.M.B.? awesome people
Happy to try to help . Filing the bevel on the edge of the shoes surely can't hurt either .
I'll be going thru this brake thing soon to. I like to have the new shoes shaped to the drum before assembly. Just better contact
i adjusted the brakes. only the front right one seemed tight. i didnt grind / file down the bevels because i wasnt sure which edge you are referring to. On this picture is it the red or the green edge?
yes the green part! make it so it matches the curve on the inside of the drum, dont worry if its not perfectly round, it will wear in.
sweet! im learning. baby steps, but im learning. thanks again man
no worries, i learned this from a friend too. i never had them lock up before, but he told me it had happened to him!
After adjusting have someone press the brake and release. Imediately try to turn the wheel after the brake is released and make sure it turns free again. Repeat this for all 4 wheels. If that checks out good then it could be as Artfrombama said. You may not have any free play in the brake pedal to the master cylinder. The pedal should be able to move a little bit before it starts to press in the master cylinder.
sweet. gonna have to get a friend over for that. speaking of Thanksgiving.. I am Thankful for the knowledge i get from you guys. It's like have mechanics i can trust help me out with troubleshooting for free. You guys rule. I owe you a beer or 12
Nice car! The changes you are making look great!
Did you notice if when the brakes were locked if the brake pedal was super-hard and no free play?
yes, it was super hard and barely had any play when they were locked up
OK, the fluid isn't returning to the reservoir. Try some flat washers like mentioned above, if it works normally remove the flat washers and shorten the pushrod the thickness of the washer.
ok, i smoothed/rounded that bevel (it was only on the fronts, the rear were stright and didnt seem to stick)
ha, well, that wasnt the problem. i just took it for a ride and it froze up again. So... one more picture. just so i know where i should put these washers.
NO! Those are "crush washers" and can only be used once. Locate the rod that actuates the master cylinder when you push the pedal. THAT'S where the washers will go!
Seriously, I think your problem is the pushrod that pushes the piston INSIDE the master cylinder is too long, either from improper adjustment or mismatch of parts.
From the looks of that pic I don't think you can do the washer trick to get more free play. It looks like the master cylinder is bolted from the side.
So look at the rod that is going inside of that black rubber boot and see if it is adjustable. It may be two pieces with a locking nut. If it is just shorten that rod a little and try it.
If it is not adjustable you will have to take it out and shorten it a little. Probably a 1/8 of a inch should be plenty.
thanks for chiming in. i will give that a try
car looks awesome!
x2 on the m.c. actuating rod
I have been having the same issues with my 51. I am going to replace the master cylinder and see if that works.
i didnt read the entire post sorry.... Did you put new rubber fluid supply lines on?
yes, everything brake related is Brand New including lines, fittings springs, shoes, drums, master, etc..
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