Register now to get rid of these ads!

Projects My 1950 Ford Shoebox Project

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by sevenevez, Oct 27, 2010.

  1. Buddy Palumbo
    Joined: Mar 30, 2008
    Posts: 3,870

    Buddy Palumbo
    Member

    Yea , sounds like the brakes got really hot & locked up . Might want to check them & re-adjust 'em .
     
  2. big creep
    Joined: Feb 5, 2008
    Posts: 2,945

    big creep
    Member

    you need to take the edge off of the shoes! i replaces my back brakes and a friend told me to shave the ends down just a bit, when new from the factory they have a beveled edge. if you dont do this he said they will lock up! take the drum off and take a file to them, should fix it right up!

    forgot to tell you shave the edge where the drum curves, leading edge if the shoe, both sides.
     
    Last edited: Nov 20, 2011
  3. sevenevez
    Joined: Jul 21, 2010
    Posts: 538

    sevenevez
    Member
    from Yuma, AZ

    my gut feeling is they are too tight. i will try the adjuster. thanks for the quick response

    ahh, never heard that. its definitely too tight. if i shave/file that edge i wont need to bleed them again will i?
     
  4. big creep
    Joined: Feb 5, 2008
    Posts: 2,945

    big creep
    Member

    no just leave them mounted, take the drum off and just file away, you want a taper is all. if they are left square they tend to lock up. the top and the bottom of the shoe, just put a curve on it.
     
  5. sevenevez
    Joined: Jul 21, 2010
    Posts: 538

    sevenevez
    Member
    from Yuma, AZ

    perfect. i will try that. and thank you for the reply. i really appreciate the knowledge
     
  6. big creep
    Joined: Feb 5, 2008
    Posts: 2,945

    big creep
    Member

    yea no problem!
     
  7. Make sure the pushrod in the master cylinder is allowing the piston to fully return to the seat. I had the exact thing happen to a non-HAMB car. I ended up using some flat washers between the master cyl. and the booster.
     
  8. sevenevez
    Joined: Jul 21, 2010
    Posts: 538

    sevenevez
    Member
    from Yuma, AZ

    thanks for chiming in with the info "Artfrombama". I will check out the master cylinder also tomorrow when i get home.

    What would i do without the H.A.M.B.? awesome people
     
  9. Buddy Palumbo
    Joined: Mar 30, 2008
    Posts: 3,870

    Buddy Palumbo
    Member

    Happy to try to help . Filing the bevel on the edge of the shoes surely can't hurt either .
     
  10. I'll be going thru this brake thing soon to. I like to have the new shoes shaped to the drum before assembly. Just better contact
     
  11. sevenevez
    Joined: Jul 21, 2010
    Posts: 538

    sevenevez
    Member
    from Yuma, AZ

    i adjusted the brakes. only the front right one seemed tight. i didnt grind / file down the bevels because i wasnt sure which edge you are referring to. On this picture is it the red or the green edge?

    [​IMG]
     
  12. big creep
    Joined: Feb 5, 2008
    Posts: 2,945

    big creep
    Member

    yes the green part! make it so it matches the curve on the inside of the drum, dont worry if its not perfectly round, it will wear in.

     
  13. sevenevez
    Joined: Jul 21, 2010
    Posts: 538

    sevenevez
    Member
    from Yuma, AZ

    sweet! im learning. baby steps, but im learning. thanks again man
     
  14. big creep
    Joined: Feb 5, 2008
    Posts: 2,945

    big creep
    Member

    no worries, i learned this from a friend too. i never had them lock up before, but he told me it had happened to him!

     
  15. ratrodjunkie
    Joined: Aug 21, 2005
    Posts: 45

    ratrodjunkie
    Member

    After adjusting have someone press the brake and release. Imediately try to turn the wheel after the brake is released and make sure it turns free again. Repeat this for all 4 wheels. If that checks out good then it could be as Artfrombama said. You may not have any free play in the brake pedal to the master cylinder. The pedal should be able to move a little bit before it starts to press in the master cylinder.
     
  16. sevenevez
    Joined: Jul 21, 2010
    Posts: 538

    sevenevez
    Member
    from Yuma, AZ

    sweet. gonna have to get a friend over for that. speaking of Thanksgiving.. I am Thankful for the knowledge i get from you guys. It's like have mechanics i can trust help me out with troubleshooting for free. You guys rule. I owe you a beer or 12
     
  17. POLYFRIED 35
    Joined: Sep 1, 2010
    Posts: 888

    POLYFRIED 35
    Member

    Nice car! The changes you are making look great!
     
  18. Did you notice if when the brakes were locked if the brake pedal was super-hard and no free play?
     
  19. sevenevez
    Joined: Jul 21, 2010
    Posts: 538

    sevenevez
    Member
    from Yuma, AZ

    yes, it was super hard and barely had any play when they were locked up
     
  20. OK, the fluid isn't returning to the reservoir. Try some flat washers like mentioned above, if it works normally remove the flat washers and shorten the pushrod the thickness of the washer.
     
  21. sevenevez
    Joined: Jul 21, 2010
    Posts: 538

    sevenevez
    Member
    from Yuma, AZ

    ok, i smoothed/rounded that bevel (it was only on the fronts, the rear were stright and didnt seem to stick)

    [​IMG]
     
  22. sevenevez
    Joined: Jul 21, 2010
    Posts: 538

    sevenevez
    Member
    from Yuma, AZ

    ha, well, that wasnt the problem. i just took it for a ride and it froze up again. So... one more picture. just so i know where i should put these washers.

    [​IMG]
     
  23. daddio211
    Joined: Aug 26, 2008
    Posts: 5,998

    daddio211
    Member

    NO! Those are "crush washers" and can only be used once. Locate the rod that actuates the master cylinder when you push the pedal. THAT'S where the washers will go!
     
  24. Damifino



    Seriously, I think your problem is the pushrod that pushes the piston INSIDE the master cylinder is too long, either from improper adjustment or mismatch of parts.
     
  25. ratrodjunkie
    Joined: Aug 21, 2005
    Posts: 45

    ratrodjunkie
    Member

    From the looks of that pic I don't think you can do the washer trick to get more free play. It looks like the master cylinder is bolted from the side.
    So look at the rod that is going inside of that black rubber boot and see if it is adjustable. It may be two pieces with a locking nut. If it is just shorten that rod a little and try it.
    If it is not adjustable you will have to take it out and shorten it a little. Probably a 1/8 of a inch should be plenty.
     
  26. sevenevez
    Joined: Jul 21, 2010
    Posts: 538

    sevenevez
    Member
    from Yuma, AZ

    thanks for chiming in. i will give that a try
     
  27. bbbronc
    Joined: Jan 28, 2011
    Posts: 126

    bbbronc
    Member

    car looks awesome!
    x2 on the m.c. actuating rod
     
  28. Flyinsolo71
    Joined: Oct 25, 2006
    Posts: 89

    Flyinsolo71
    Member
    from Austin

    I have been having the same issues with my 51. I am going to replace the master cylinder and see if that works.
     
  29. chopo
    Joined: Feb 20, 2006
    Posts: 1,265

    chopo
    Member

    i didnt read the entire post sorry.... Did you put new rubber fluid supply lines on?
     
  30. sevenevez
    Joined: Jul 21, 2010
    Posts: 538

    sevenevez
    Member
    from Yuma, AZ

    yes, everything brake related is Brand New including lines, fittings springs, shoes, drums, master, etc..
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.