Projects My 1950 Ford Shoebox Project

Tires Came in Today


Coker Classic G78's

 

Ok, so i got the wheels in. But the rears were rubbing. So i had to pull out the cutting wheel to remove the rib and poundin the hell out of the panel etc.. Now they dont rub and they are great. Thanks again to Hombres Ruin for the wheel info. I think if i woulda just done a slightly different offset on the rear i wouldnt have had that rubbing problem but i am good now.

 

That thing looks pretty darn good.

 

At first I was like $7k........I don't know...

After some small and easy changes I'm like $10k! Looking good man.

 

I'm not the sharpest knief in the drawer but if I am seeing corectly in that picture where you cut some of the wheelbox out, please find something to seal that up with. If your car doesn't have rust issues, don't give them somewhere to start. Nice ride. You should have become an alliance member before buying those tires, could have gotten 10% off. I think I'm right on that. If not I'm sure I'll be corrected.

 

thanks smarg

haha,thnx hitman. i felt the same way

btw: i live in Arizona. Rust is a pretty Rare thing. But i did spray a coating in the well before i mounted the wheels back on. and yea, imma do the alliance thing. i got a good deal on tires. im not complaining.

 

thats a cool car! Keep up the good work!

 

This in an old wives tale...never happen!


Car looks great! How much better is it with the dual plane in traffic?? Huge difference I'd bet!
Congrats!!

 

yea, i actually got a different one than the one in the picture
i believe this is the one i am running now

thanks to "Shaggy" for the advice to switch that. BIG difference in lower RPM power.

 

Holy shit that car looks good with the new shoes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

One major difference between an 8" or a 9" diff is the access to the lower nuts. With an 8" you can reach it with a socket & ratchet and a 9" you need a wrench.
You have a sweet ride, enjoy it.

 

what a radical difference eh? i think i actually like the color of the car now! haha

sweet, thanks man, now i know how to check it

 

looks great, get the bitch down a bit and your set for life.

 

i concurr 100%

 

nice job, iam glad the wheels worked out for you,now the drop and you will be set.get her in the weeds.

 

Wow those rims and tires realy made a difference! Looks like you got a great deal for 7k. Have fun with it and drive the piss outta it.

 

get her in the weeds! shes looking good though!

 

Thanks to everyone chiming in on the thread.

Now, I got a couple questions

So, If i do a Static Drop (jamco/fatman kingpins, steering arms, cut springs, remove leafs and this and that to get her down about 4 inches front and back)

1.) Will my Traction Bars Hit the Ground?

2.) If they do and i have to remove them, what is going to happen? (rear end hopping etc..)

3.) Will I have to replace all the Jamco/Fatman stuff with new parts to Bag It later when i get the cash?

4.) Do i HAVE to get a 4-Link?

5.) Do I have to tunnel the driveline?

Any answers are very appreciated...
Thanks again everyone

 

1) I dont think so. You already have a block under there. Removing the leafs will lower the body closer to the axle, not the axle closer to the ground

2) You should remove them anyway and be at peace with having a cruiser, not a hot rod

3) No. All the Jamco stuff will make it even lower regardless, if you're talking about uprights and steering arms.

4) You SHOULD want to get a 4 link. Ive seen some without it on bags, and I wouldnt ride in it. But im a pussy.

5) Theres only one way to find out... I have a 3 inch block in the rear, 51 ford shackles which are an inch lower and im plenty clear. Im stepping my A arms on Sunday and removing a leaf in back, so if I hit, you'll be the first to know.

 

I just found this thread (how did i miss this?), the car looks good and I think you are on the right track on your upgrades. Some of my suggestions would follow the other guys.

I would lower it if it were me, if funds are low I would do a static drop and get areostar springs in front and put blocks in the rear for now. Regarding the driveshaft tunnel I think you have to get prety low before you need to mess with that. Then later on you can aid air bags and a 4 link.

Keep up all the good work and keep us posted, I like the fact that there are a few tudors out there that are not chopped.

 

Thanks for answering those questions. it DEFINITELY helps me to understand stuff now. Did you step your A Arms?

Thanks man. What did you all do to get yours Low?

 

UPDATE: Went to the Good Guys Nationals out here in AZ this weekend. Saw some sick cars and found a couple nice shift knobs. They are just solid Resin cast and need to be painted etc...

Here they are:


So I went to ACE and got a Coupler so she can screw on to my Muncie. Epoxy'd it into her rear end.



Bought some Acrylic Paints from Wal Mart and a 30-Pack of Natural Light






Did my Best to Match her Bikini to the Color of My Ford. Then hit her with 3 Coats of Clear.


This is the one i did for my Chevy Truck (not threaded, just a 3/4in spline)



Here they are! Not bad for an Amateur Knobber

 

Also! Got this stuff from the Show called "Wenol" and it does WONDERS on badly weathered Chrome. It is a 2-Stage type of paste. Remember how SH!tty and Hazy my grille looked? This is just using the first stage with one quick buff. Hope to do more soon.

 

nice job painting the dagmared shifter! and nice ford by the way, just got sidetracked a bit!

 

I didnt end up doing the a arms. I was going to but a buddy needed some help painting his car, so I was a good friend instead, haha.

 

wenol is a great product at least i think so if you want even more shine from it pick up some bronze wool its just like steel wool except its bronze get different coarsness' of it i have fine and medium got it at a local mom and pop hardware store they had to order it but what the hay

put some of the red wenol on the bronze and work it normally go through all the grits you have with the red then do the same with the blue wenol doesnt do as good as p[olishing rouge but it does brighten up very dull chrome

i just did my upper grille bars on my shoebox they were milky white no reflextion now they shine (sorry i dont have pics) might be persuaded to take some if you like

 

I want to know more about this wenol. My grill is trash

 

thanks! btw: what is "dagmared" ?

I'm gunna try that. I got the Rouge and the Blue tube also which i guess is the finer second stage. You sure the Steel Wool wont put any scratches in the chrome? persuading you to post a couple pics!

 

its not steel wool that will scratch it is bronze wool they make it for marine use to polish wood believe it or not



shainerman they sell wenol at most bshows around here heres thier contact info maybe you can order some

website www.shinebrite.com
email [email protected]
phone 740-423-5163
address
shines brite,inc
11887 east pike road
cambridge oh 43725

 

heres 3 pics of my grille mocked up in my car

BEFORE polishing