The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by sevenevez, Oct 27, 2010.
ive seen this in person, the guy who owns this box is a nice dude. and it is a pretty cool set up!
yea, that is pics from viva 2010 (from bangshift). i always thought it was cool running the exhaust like that. and his paint is super sexy.
I used a rebel wire kit on my box think it was a 21 wire set up around 180 shipped out with a alliance discount. I have headers on mine but I am also running a fat man frame stub and manual rack and pinion. It's a tight fit but just clears the steering shaft as well.
i think that stub makes all the difference though. due to kids and christmas i dont see me getting to the finish line for at least a month or two
i might do that next? fatman stub kit.
shit mine has been in the garage for at least 7 years! i need to get back on it, but life gets in the way! i do plan on getting it to run this coming year though! getting a custom bench seat made for it. tunnel hump in the way, and i know you have a stock set up in the front. did you do the fatman dropped uprights?
haha, man you got more patience than me. you must be a helluva fisherman. yea, i did the dropped upright/kingpin fatman setup from gambino (earlier post). but i believe if you do the kingpins, you cant do disc brakes
Sevenevez, the car is looking killer with it lowered. As for adjusting the brake pedal.
Looking at the left pic. The bolt attatching the push rod should be an eccentric bolt, That is the adjustment for the push rod. If you have a regular bolt in there it's not correct. You should be able to loosen the nut and turn the bolt to adjust the free play and then hold the bolt and tighten the nut.
There are also other adjustments that are done with the "pin" at the top of the backing plate that the shoes pivot on. Do you have the "green bible" the factory manual? If not you should get one, they are priceless to have for stuff like this. If you don't have one PM me your email and I can try to send you the brake pages you need.
thanks for the info. yes, i have a green bible. my buddy towed it to his shop to see if they can work out the problem. I sent this paragraph you just typed out to him though and hopefully it will help.
If you look at the brake section there is like a minor and major adjustment for the shoes. Might want to give your buddy the bible to get it figured out. Good luck with everything.
Glad to see you jump in Skip. Skip knows his stuff. check out his shoebox vicky you'll like it I mean love it!
On that left-hand sbc header clearance problem, have you ever considered installing a stock chev cast-iron header that's shaped to meet your needs?
I know, I know, doesn't look trick. But at least they are as common as dirt, come in a wide variety of shapes, and can be found at wrecking yards for cheap. What's more, they won't burn out, they'll run quieter than tube headers, they'll help lower the temperature under the hood, and you can finish them off with high-temp coatings so they look decent.
Just a well-meant suggestion. Sometimes, less techy is more, especially if it helps solve a persistent problem. Good luck!!
thanks for chiming in. every bit of support helps here. I thought about the whole Ram Horn thing but did a Lot of research and saw that people still had to do the pie-cut to make em work correctly. we contacted sanderson headers and they are shipping a set of CC50's which they say is the "go to" header for a shoebox SBC setup. Initially they recommended the CC2's or CC3's. But once my buddy Kevin at JPT spoke with them and possibly gave them more info on measurements it became apparent. They wont arrive until late next week if i am lucky. So it looks like early 2012 i may have a resolution. If so, that should probably be a Sticky for shoebox SBC owners considering how much of an issue this is.
RE: the brakes - my buddies at Just Plain Trick are switching to DOT 4 fluid, ordered a new master (which seemed to have a leak) and correctly putting pads on that were incorrect the first time. Hope to have some updates for you guys in the next 1+ week or so
did you get the brakes all worked out?
What headers are you running if you don't mind me asking? I am running Fat Mans very first MII front end on my 49 Ford with the manual rack and a sbc and was going to go with basic rams horns or stock setup but would love to run headers instead for a cleaner look and a tiny bit more flow.
not yet brother. my buddies at Just Plain Trick (people that did the bags) are working on it. switching to DOT 4 fluid, ordered a new master (which seemed to have a leak) and correctly putting pads on that were incorrect the first time.
Happy New Year!
still waiting on headers to arrive then fabbing (if they fit and clear steering box) then brake issue. want to do headers/exhaust first to ensure the header heat isnt heating up the brake fluid etc..
Looking forward to a great year and making progress
Happy New Year! im getting mine on the road THIS YEAR! tired of it in just sitting in the garage!
maybe someday we will meet at a show!
Do you have a thread for your build?
no never started one.
Wiring Harness came in today.
What's in the top right corner... an RC '50???
haha, good eye. yea thats the one i drive when my real one is out of commission
Well... lets see it! Who makes the body?
Really nice car!!!
The car's are HPi e10's. one i did like my truck, the other is actually a Merc body made by Parma. No one makes a shoebox RC body that i know of (nor do they make whitewalls).
ok, so here's an update on my header situation. i ordered a set of CC50's from Sanderson and they aint clearing in any type of way. they hit my oil filter and my linkage ofr brake/shift etc.. The other side is basically a CC2 and clears fin cuz there aint sh!t to block it over there. We are goin to have them custom build a CC2 for the driver side upside down with a 5 degree kick out for $100 more that will clear the valve cover and run a curved pipe down to the firewall and that should clear. We'll see. 2 more weeks and i should know.
Good people at Sanderson!
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