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Projects My 1948 Pontiac Build (A little bit custom and a whole lot faster)

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by speters, Jul 20, 2011.

  1. sirhc
    Joined: Mar 3, 2008
    Posts: 164

    sirhc
    Member
    from Boise, ID

    That's a great looking car - enjoyed the thread so far and looking forward to seeing more progress!
     
  2. speters
    Joined: May 19, 2010
    Posts: 514

    speters
    Member

    Thanks for the lead on these I found Burt21 aka "Richies" and I am working on ordering a set

    THANKS
     
  3. speters
    Joined: May 19, 2010
    Posts: 514

    speters
    Member

    I need some help with my C Notch ...I purchased a great kit from Alex at Gambino Kustoms and he has some great how to info out there but my frame it a little challenging. The problem is that the kick up in the frame and the c notch shape don't play nice together. Here is what I am talking about

    If I set the front in line with the bottom of the frame I will have almost no notch at all
    [​IMG]

    Can I set it up like this? I don't see it being easy to make the frame strong if I put it up this high. Should I do this and add more plates to extend it down in front?
    [​IMG]
     
  4. speters
    Joined: May 19, 2010
    Posts: 514

    speters
    Member

    bump for some help with my notch
     
  5. hlfuzzball
    Joined: Jan 27, 2005
    Posts: 216

    hlfuzzball
    Member
    from Michigan

    Are you sure you want to use the original frame & suspension ?

    I suggest you try to find a restored original car to test drive yourself. I think you'll be extremely disappointed in the handling of that chassis, and it won't get any better with a big V8 up front!

    I know from experience. Our family car in the Fifties was a '47 Fastback. What a Turd !

    Jack 'er up and roll modern chassis under it. You'll never get that thing to your liking.
     
  6. speters
    Joined: May 19, 2010
    Posts: 514

    speters
    Member

    It should be better when I get done with it. To late to turn back now
     
  7. speters
    Joined: May 19, 2010
    Posts: 514

    speters
    Member

    I want to move forward with the notch been need more wisdom from the HAMB! Please help
     
  8. chaddilac
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,021

    chaddilac
    Member

    Here's how I'd do it... if you have the possibility of getting a custom notch laser cut do it, if not then after you add material it needs a really strong gusset!!
     

    Attached Files:

  9. Tin Can
    Joined: Nov 18, 2005
    Posts: 2,096

    Tin Can
    Member

    what if you flipped the notch plate around. It looks like it is longer in the rear than in the front. Otherwise I agree with chaddilac
     
  10. speters
    Joined: May 19, 2010
    Posts: 514

    speters
    Member

    It is much longer in the front just the angle that makes it look that way. I think new side plates might be in order Thanks guys I will take all the help I can get
     
  11. hlfuzzball
    Joined: Jan 27, 2005
    Posts: 216

    hlfuzzball
    Member
    from Michigan

    speters,

    "It should be better when I get done with it."

    Why should it be better? Hoping for it won't make it better. Obama said things should get better too !


    "To late to turn back now"

    It's never too late to prevent major errors, only super costly in time and money.


    Do yourself a favor and at least splice in a late-model front clip with ball-joint suspension, modern geometry, and power steering. You'll regret it if you don't.

    In original condition, a Pontiac of this era understeered badly even with skinny hard tires and stock rims. With the slow manual steering, it was a bitch to even park this slug. I assume you will add wide tires and rims. This will only compound your problem with additional wheel offset making undesirable scrub radius and super-human effort required to turn at low speed.Why do you think Sprint Cars have power steering ?

    I'm only trying to advise you of problems you will encounter. Trying to save you a lot of grief down the line.

    Good Luck !
     
  12. castleman1111
    Joined: Nov 2, 2010
    Posts: 105

    castleman1111
    Member

    i couldn't disagree with tom in detroit more!!!! "assume you will add wide tires and rims"??? what??? i personally like the time machine feel of whatever i'm driving!! if it's a model A i don't want "wide tires and rims"!! if it's my 54 i want it to ride and drive like the old girl was made to. hell!! that's half the fun!! just my opinion...that's why there is chocolate and vanilla!!lol!! HAVE FUN!! THAT'S THE GOAL!!
     
  13. speters
    Joined: May 19, 2010
    Posts: 514

    speters
    Member

    I needed to hear that! I loved driving my all original Model A just the way it was
     
  14. castleman1111
    Joined: Nov 2, 2010
    Posts: 105

    castleman1111
    Member

  15. Gambino_Kustoms
    Joined: Oct 14, 2005
    Posts: 6,561

    Gambino_Kustoms
    Alliance Vendor

    yes you can extend the fronts down i would extend them almost all the way to the bottom edge of the frame grind the notch and the extension so there v ' d on each side and weld bolth sides then grind and metal finish smooth what bothers me here is the in dentation on the frame rail i would make some filler pieces that you can use to weld that gap even if you have to do a double pass weld not one after the other of corse spred the heat around when welding . weve extended the notches alot like im telling ya just long as every thing is welded full around that side plate ! as a side not id rather have you call me then send me a pm im not on the hamb alot and when i am im rushed so i miss my pms alot call me 408 561 5744
    thanxs
    alex
     
  16. Gambino_Kustoms
    Joined: Oct 14, 2005
    Posts: 6,561

    Gambino_Kustoms
    Alliance Vendor

    i would try to get metal the width of the side plate i think its close to 4 '' in that area also i think there will be enuff material you cut of the back of the top plate to extend down the front even if ther is up to a 1/4 inch gap you can weld it also i would build that notch on the bench instead of on the frame a piece at atime call me so i can help you
     
  17. Speters, nice to see your progress, i'm looking forward to see your Pontiac grow and grow..;) say, i see you still got the fender skirts which are hanging at the wall in background of your last pic, they look like the Streamliner skirts for the 122"-cars. do you want to use 'em or sell 'em? in that case tell me something for i'd like to have a second set for a little custom conversion..

    Cheers, Carsten
     
  18. speters
    Joined: May 19, 2010
    Posts: 514

    speters
    Member

    They are not for a 48 since they have the ribs so I am selling them if you are interested $100 plus shipping
     
  19. yep, sold! pm sent, thank you! you right, forgot that yours is a 48!
     
  20. nateschevy
    Joined: Dec 15, 2009
    Posts: 9

    nateschevy
    Member
    from utah

    Lookin good! I also am workin on a 48 Pontiac and just finished my frame notch and grafting a 67 camaro front clip on, trying to upload some photos for ya. I made my own notch using 2x4 tube because I didn't like any of those pre fab kits.
     
  21. nateschevy
    Joined: Dec 15, 2009
    Posts: 9

    nateschevy
    Member
    from utah

    Frame laid out
     

    Attached Files:

  22. nateschevy
    Joined: Dec 15, 2009
    Posts: 9

    nateschevy
    Member
    from utah

    Here is a pic of where the new front end and old frame meet, this is where the front body mount is of the original frame
     

    Attached Files:

  23. speters
    Joined: May 19, 2010
    Posts: 514

    speters
    Member

    Thanks for the pictures Nate! Looks like your 48 was once the same color as mine. I like the 2x4 frame notch, looks like it came out great. Next time I am up near the steel supplier I am going to pick up some more stock to extend my side plates down in the front .
     
  24. speters
    Joined: May 19, 2010
    Posts: 514

    speters
    Member

    Bought another set of spindles since one of mine was damaged and took them apart
    [​IMG]

    Time to tear down a 9"
    [​IMG]

    There is a lot to come off this one
    [​IMG]

    Junk in the drum
    [​IMG]

    5 cut off wheels, 1 grinding wheel and 2 flap wheels later
    [​IMG]

    Tonight I plan on pulling the rest of it apart

    Casting numbers
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  25. THE CHIEF
    Joined: Feb 22, 2007
    Posts: 847

    THE CHIEF
    Member
    from MIAMI

    i had the same prob wit the notches so i built my own
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  26. speters
    Joined: May 19, 2010
    Posts: 514

    speters
    Member

    Extended the front - I v prepped the weld joint and I only smoothed the weld so I can add a fish plate over the joint
    [​IMG]

    9" is all the way apart
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Anyone know a link to a good resource on 9" numbers? I am trying to figure of what gear is in this thing.
     
  27. Skankin' Rat Fink
    Joined: Jun 18, 2006
    Posts: 1,497

    Skankin' Rat Fink
    Member
    from NYC

    Usually you can just Google the numbers and find a reference online.
     
  28. OahuEli
    Joined: Dec 27, 2008
    Posts: 5,243

    OahuEli
    Member
    from Hawaii

    Just divide the number of teeth on the ring gear by the number of teeth on the pinion gear. For instance, 41 teeth on ring gear divided by 10 teeth on the pinion gear will give you a 4.10 gear. Regarding the casting numbers, The first letter denotes the decade, "C" being the '60s and "D" being the '70s. The second digit, a number, denotes the year, C6 being 1966, C7 being 1967 and D2 being 1972 typically. This is not hard and fast though, as some were a reference to a production series. Looks like you have a mixture of parts there. No big deal, those old 9 inch units lasted forever even when swapping parts as I have done.
     
  29. speters
    Joined: May 19, 2010
    Posts: 514

    speters
    Member

    So in order to set the ride height and dial in the 4 link I need to figure out what size tires to run. I bought the car with 710x15 on it but the wheels are in rough shape and not a matched set. Coker claims my car should have 650-16s. I purchased a disc brake kit from Scarebird for the from and talks about wheel fitment in his kit saying

    "Note: this setup will NOT work with the stock year rims - this requires 1972-85 GM 1/2 ton truck or equivalent rims. This rims are usually 15 x 7", not 5.5". They will accept the stock wheel covers but NOT hubcaps. We are working on a setup that will allow the use of the OEM rims."

    I have not purchased and brakes for the 9" I am running back there. So I am looking for advice. I can get wheels in any size and offset no problem but hubcaps can be tough to find in 16" I want to run a traditional tire in a wide white to match the look I am going for...what should I do?
     
  30. speters
    Joined: May 19, 2010
    Posts: 514

    speters
    Member

    Besides the impossible to find 16" Lyon caps are there are other 16" caps to look for
     

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