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Hot Rods My 1928 RPU project

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Morrisman, Oct 20, 2010.

  1. Morrisman
    Joined: Dec 9, 2003
    Posts: 1,600

    Morrisman
    Member
    from England

    I still have a bunch of jobs to do, fit the rad cowl, make a grill insert, which will probably be stainless sheet with a bunch of 2" holes in.

    It also needs the pick-up bed making, and doors fitting, seats covering. Hope to drive it soon though, just round the block of course.

    It also needs paint some day too, once all the faults are ironed out and I get some paperwork for it......
     
  2. Morrisman
    Joined: Dec 9, 2003
    Posts: 1,600

    Morrisman
    Member
    from England

    I've had some results with the brakes when is remembered the rear calipers are GM with built in parking brake, and they need the parking brake adjusting before bleeding.

    Of course I did this all ass about face..... Still, I have some sort of a pedal now, but it needs more bleeding and some bedding in with all the newly assembled mismatched parts.
     
  3. draggler
    Joined: Jan 6, 2007
    Posts: 238

    draggler
    Member

    Most resourceful,working with what you can acquire in your environs.
    I quite enjoyed reading thru.
    The windscreens would definately add originality ,but you cant go wrong with the chopped stock style w/shield and posts.
    Best of luck !
     
  4. Morrisman
    Joined: Dec 9, 2003
    Posts: 1,600

    Morrisman
    Member
    from England

    And now the trans is stuck in drive......
     
  5. Morrisman
    Joined: Dec 9, 2003
    Posts: 1,600

    Morrisman
    Member
    from England

    I was wrong, I thought I had brakes, but even with a good pedal there is no braking going on at the back end. I took out the proportional and residual valve, plumbed in directly, Still no braking action. I removed and bench bled the master cylinder. Reinstalled, still nothing, I can turn a rear wheel even with a foot had on the brake pedal. Front brakes are good.

    I'm missing something. It seems like the MC is totally divided in two, half to the rear, half to the front, so if the front half takes up the slack the rear end won't see any brake fluid pressure. What am I doing wrong????

    I'm now reading on Google that maybe I have an MC designed for disc/drum combo, not disc/disc.
     
    Last edited: Dec 9, 2012
  6. GasserTodd
    Joined: May 15, 2009
    Posts: 393

    GasserTodd
    Member

    Awesome effort there. I cant imagine how difficult it must be to find the stuff you need up your way. Whats the deal on registration etc?
     
  7. s55mercury66
    Joined: Jul 6, 2009
    Posts: 3,980

    s55mercury66
    Member
    from SW Wyoming

    I just found this thread tonight, and I think you're doing some nice work there Morrisman. I know it's a bit late now, but have you looked at the fan shrouds/guards on some of the CAT generators used offshore? Subscribed.
     
  8. jmpowie
    Joined: Dec 2, 2006
    Posts: 202

    jmpowie
    Member

    You may need the residual valve on the rear. you could be making pressure on the front and you cannt push the pedal to get the rears to make pressure. Try taking the line off the front brakes, pump up the brakes and see if the rears work then. Or you could just leave it and do killer brake stands.
     
  9. Morrisman
    Joined: Dec 9, 2003
    Posts: 1,600

    Morrisman
    Member
    from England

    :D
    I'm asking around for somebody with 'connections' who might be able to get the papers sorted. if I can find old registrations docs for an old American V8 I can probably register it as a 'radically modified' something or other, with a little bending of the rules.

    I've probably seen them before, can't remember the details though, but I made mine from a sheet of 1mm stainless steel, should work, I hope.

    I have residuals on both front and rear.

    I did undo the front brakes, routed the fluid to dribble back into the MC instead, and the pedal went to the floor... Before that it only went halfway down. I've started another thread on the problem and I'm getting lots of answers but nothing seems to quite sort the problem.
     
  10. Morrisman
    Joined: Dec 9, 2003
    Posts: 1,600

    Morrisman
    Member
    from England

    I finally decided to buy a Wilwood single piston master cylinder. I made an adaptor bracket, plumbed it in, now I have brakes front and back......

    I actually bought two, on 7/8" and one 1". Not sure which one I have fitted at the moment. :D

    Tranny. I eventually got it working, but with no reverse. Took it out, dropped it at my buddys place, the guy I bought it off, and he tore into it and gave it me back. Some clutch pack had burned or seized or something. I reinstalled it, works okay, but no reverse! :confused:

    This morning I went to his place, got another tranny he had laying there, supposed to be good, busted my balls installing it this afternoon. This tranny has no reverse either!!!!!!

    I'm just about sick of the site of transmissions now.:mad::mad::mad::mad::mad:

    I called him up and he says it could be the valve body as he took it apart and swapped some springs, or some other such drama. Tomorrow I'll get another valve body off him and I hope for his sakes it fixes the problem.

    I also made a front grille out of stainless sheet, with some big holes punched in it. Not sure if I like the look of it in the pics, but it looks okay in the flesh. I'd like it to go inside the grill cover but clearance is tight with the tranny cooler in there as the steering cross link runs pretty close.

    Small holes punched to take the centre bolt of the big punch.

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    Punch is an old air force one I blagged some 30 years ago and have never used until now.

    I 'engine turned' it on my drill press, with some little pad thing I found in the cupboard.

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    volvobrynk likes this.
  11. s55mercury66
    Joined: Jul 6, 2009
    Posts: 3,980

    s55mercury66
    Member
    from SW Wyoming

    Not saying this is your problem, but every time my Turbo 350's would get low on fluid, reverse was the first thing that didn't work.
     
  12. Morrisman
    Joined: Dec 9, 2003
    Posts: 1,600

    Morrisman
    Member
    from England

    I've triple checked the level, run through all the gears, checked it again, engine at idle, all warmed up, it is just on the high mark.
     
  13. Morrisman
    Joined: Dec 9, 2003
    Posts: 1,600

    Morrisman
    Member
    from England

    I pulled the valve body, found a roll pin missing from one plunger type assembly. My buddy swapped it for another new valve body, and gave me a new shift kit to fit, for some reason....

    Anyway, I installed it, fired it up, and I now have all gears. I even laid a yard of rubber on the drive way with both tires when I tapped the throttle. Hmm, should be a 'lively' little car.
     
  14. willymakeit
    Joined: Apr 13, 2009
    Posts: 1,326

    willymakeit
    Member

    Found this today. Interesting build and I will keep following it. Nice work and ideas.
     
  15. Morrisman
    Joined: Dec 9, 2003
    Posts: 1,600

    Morrisman
    Member
    from England

    :D
    Just fitting the doors tonight, plan to take it for its first drive up the road tomorrow. Fingers crossed nothing falls off.
     
  16. Glad to see it's close to being finished. House is looking great too.
     
  17. bct
    Joined: Apr 4, 2005
    Posts: 3,088

    bct
    Member

    good luck!
     
  18. mink
    Joined: Oct 4, 2007
    Posts: 1,303

    mink
    Member
    from CT

    Remove that grille shell screen, it looks hideous and doesn't help with airflow. What other options do you have for windshield.
     
  19. Morrisman
    Joined: Dec 9, 2003
    Posts: 1,600

    Morrisman
    Member
    from England

    Thanks for the constructive criticism. A little encouragement is always welcome.
     
  20. Morrisman
    Joined: Dec 9, 2003
    Posts: 1,600

    Morrisman
    Member
    from England

    Just been for the first test drive. Everything worked okay, it smokes the tyres at a touch of the throttle, handling seems to work, suspension never broke, brakes seem to work okay. :D

    A tapping started from the motor somewhere after about ten minutes, so I parked it up. Not sure what the hell it is. :confused:
     
  21. Morrisman
    Joined: Dec 9, 2003
    Posts: 1,600

    Morrisman
    Member
    from England

    I decided I didn't want the little Brooklands screens on, so I'm mid-way through building some steel posts. They are pretty hefty, 3/16" steel, but will be ground and drilled a bit then chromed. Screen will likely be poly sheet.

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    I made a rad grill from stainless, thought it was brilliant, then took some pics and realised it looked naff.

    [​IMG]

    So, I did some work on it, put it inside the grill shell instead of on the front, popped some more holes it, took some of the engine turned shine off it, and I think it looks a bit better now.

    [​IMG]

    Doors and latches are fitted, seem to work okay. Seat bases are cut and fitted, waiting for foam some day.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Taking it out for the first time. I hear about guys building a car then driving a 1000 miles to a run or show the next day. I was nervous just going to the end of the street!

    [​IMG]
     
  22. Ralph
    Joined: Jan 8, 2004
    Posts: 295

    Ralph
    Member

    You can call the first ride a success if you didn't have to push it home! What an inspiring build. Thank you for posting.
    Ralph
     
  23. Morrisman
    Joined: Dec 9, 2003
    Posts: 1,600

    Morrisman
    Member
    from England

    I've made the pickup bed now. Well, it was done in the last two days as I only got back from the ship a week ago.

    I decided it was easiest to use steel, rather than 'glass. A 4 x 8 sheet of 1.2mm was purchased. Cuts were made with an angle grinder and 1mm cut-off blade. Bends were done over a length of steel or wood. Welding was by gas, as I don't have my Mig set up yet.

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    I think the bed need some sort of 'skirt' round it, to cover the frame rails as it looks to high and shallow like it is.

    Of course, once I fitted the bed the fuel tank hit the front cross rail of the bed, so I had to re-make the fuel tank mounts, but it actually worked out okay as I simple put a couple of flat bars across that will support any weight put in the bed.

    [​IMG]

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    A little neck oil helps the constructive juices flow. :D San Mig Light, 5% by volume, less than $1 a bottle.

    [​IMG]
     
  24. Rat.Racer
    Joined: Mar 11, 2013
    Posts: 417

    Rat.Racer
    Member
    from Maryland

    What a beautiful RPU...Subscribed...
     
  25. s55mercury66
    Joined: Jul 6, 2009
    Posts: 3,980

    s55mercury66
    Member
    from SW Wyoming

    I've been following your build, Morrisman, and planning something similar. Looking at the bed you fabbed, I was thinking of a bed with deeper sides, and having the floor raised up, so the bed sides would cover some of the frame. Keep on building, and good luck with it too.
     
  26. Just found this build.ain't seen much of you on nsra.UK your getting well on with it.it's looking good.
     
  27. Morrisman
    Joined: Dec 9, 2003
    Posts: 1,600

    Morrisman
    Member
    from England

    That was the original plan, but I somehow got off track and never noticed the FUBAR until I laid the bed on the frame to eyeball it all. I think a sort of 'skirt' added on all round will cover the frame and balance the look a bit. 3" wide steel should do the trick.

    We moved back to the Philippines just over three years ago and I just sort of lost touch with the NSRA forum, then my membership lapsed and I can't access my old build-up thread. It's been nearly three years since I started it, but then I did build a big house and a suitably large garage in the meant time too.

    :D

    [​IMG]
     
  28. Morrisman
    Joined: Dec 9, 2003
    Posts: 1,600

    Morrisman
    Member
    from England

    I finished the steel windscreen posts, then bent up some 1" stainless angle bar to make a frame for a windscreen. It can be unbolted fairly easily if ever I decide to take it down the 1/4 mile. It needs glass in yet, or maybe some similar transparent material. And the frame will be polished some day.

    [​IMG]

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    As simple as it looks, it took nearly a week to do as I had to make some steel bracing inside the cowl, to bolt the uprights to. Then I had to glass up and grind the cowl to they sat exactly upright when bolted on. I really didn't fancy having the whole lot tear out of the glass and hit me in the face at 70mph.....

    I then decided to make a simple wall=bracket device to hang my angry grinders on, as I seem to spend bloody hours working metal in the vice and always end up getting the grinders mixed together, cutting a cable, etc when I put them down on the drill bench. One has a flap disc, t'other has a cut-off disc. There's a third with a thick radiusing disc in too, for cleaning up my shit welds.

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    I captured a couple of 'stills' from a video my wife took with me tearing up the tyres in the street a month or so back. :eek:

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    volvobrynk likes this.
  29. Love seeing your updates here... I am gathering parts for my own glass rpu. Keep it up!


    Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk 2
     
  30. Nice work Paul. Great solution on the windscreen pillars. Could you put a small pie cut in the side of the pillars and get a little rake in the screen? Then weld and grind. Maybe some graduated lightening holes up the side?
     

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