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mustang 2 front suspention

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by coolieman, Nov 16, 2011.

  1. coolieman
    Joined: Jan 31, 2010
    Posts: 134

    coolieman
    Member

    Hello, I am installing mustang front end in my 1935 dodge coupe I have tacked it in and hung fender to check to see if the wheel is centered in fender as far as I can tell I am 1 1/2 inch to far forward I can change location of crossmember but I just wanted to know if anyone else had this problem I marked axle centerline before taking out front axle? it will shorten my wheelbase to 116 1/2 but my wheel will be centered ??? (Your Thoughts ):confused:Thanks Michael
     
  2. I dunno will it pass the NSRA saftey inspection that way?

    I would have to see it some old cars look pretty good woth the tire moved toward the front of the fender a little.
     
  3. el Scotto
    Joined: Mar 3, 2004
    Posts: 4,479

    el Scotto
    Member
    from Tracy, CA

    Just lengthen the fenders.
     
  4. elasticated tape measure?
     

  5. OK her is a little more serious response, well my thoughts on the pics was sort of serious. Do you have the cross member turned the right way, maybe you got the cross member in backwards.


    You could just get it going really fast and hit a parking bumper I sussose.
     
  6. farmer12
    Joined: Aug 28, 2006
    Posts: 7,717

    farmer12
    Member

    The slight change may have been caused by the "anti bump" angle in your set up. The top hats of the m2 should angle backwards slightly. Perhaps this is part of the problem, but will not cause a change of 1.5 inches though.......how about some pics. Or try to measure again....... Are the fenders hung correctly.........just some food for thought.
     
  7. scottybaccus
    Joined: Mar 13, 2006
    Posts: 4,109

    scottybaccus
    Member

    +1 ^^^

    remember that the top side of the IFS has a centerline behind the wheels. The bottom side centerline is ahead of the wheels. This is a factor of the anti-dive and caster angle you mock up with.

    I would move the whole assembly back, assuming you have correct anti-dive and caster dialed in.
     
  8. A 1935 Dodge DU Coupe had a factory wheel base of 116" and the wheels look pretty centered to me.
    In order for the wheels to stay centered, you have to set up the new suspension to 116" wheelbase as well, and that is determined at the spindle, no where else. That will determine where your crossmember and upper hats get mounted.
    No other way to do it.
     
  9. Hi!
    Joined: Oct 4, 2006
    Posts: 731

    Hi!
    Member
    from SoCal

    Also bolt the whole front clip on instead of 1 fender. You need it all together to make sure your not flexing the sheet metal and getting a odd visual.
     
  10. VoodooTwin
    Joined: Jul 13, 2011
    Posts: 3,455

    VoodooTwin
    Member
    from Noo Yawk

    To answer the OP question: yes, I had the same issue (on my Chevy truck). I moved the crossmember to center the wheels in the wheelwells. It's not issue whatsoever. Put it wherever you want it.
     
  11. Don you are right again as usual but I am not seeing what you are seeing. Is there a pic somewhere and I didn't get the email?
     
  12. NO! I was looking at a Stock 35 Doodge
     
  13. Hi!
    Joined: Oct 4, 2006
    Posts: 731

    Hi!
    Member
    from SoCal

    Last 40 dodge I put a MII front end on, I had to make frame rails for it. Is this a leaf front or knee action car originaly?
     
  14. coolieman
    Joined: Jan 31, 2010
    Posts: 134

    coolieman
    Member

    it had leaf springs, before I took car apart I placed a straight edge on top of frame dropped a plum bob down to axle and marked top frame for axle centerline that measures 118" from rear centerline I was assuming wheelbase was 118' never botherd to look it up but it says w/b was 116" that would solve problem but can't figure out how I could have come up with the 118" having double checked all measurements unless the spindles have some offset as I was checking axle not spindles( maybe the paddles or the heart lung machine had something to do with it)
     
  15. Dave 39
    Joined: Jul 24, 2006
    Posts: 55

    Dave 39
    Member

    It's also a good idea to roll the car outside so you can stand back and have a good look at it.











































































































































    It's also a good idea to roll the car outside so you can stand back and look at it. Pain in the ass I know, but worth it in the long run. You don't want to end up with ''small garage syndrome'' Dave
     
  16. Hi!
    Joined: Oct 4, 2006
    Posts: 731

    Hi!
    Member
    from SoCal

    Bottom line is bolt your front clip back on and center your wheels to the wheel wells and dont worry about factory wheelbase. Your lowering the car with that front end anyway and that will affect how it looks and tire clearence when you steer.
    Make sure you mock up your lower a arms level to the ground and tack the hats in were they need be to get a idea on the new center. Check your crossmember is not level to the ground, but at the 3 degrees it needs to be (with the frame level) at or youll have bad anti dive.Trim crossmember if need be. Take your time before you do final welds for any corrections.
     
  17. el Scotto
    Joined: Mar 3, 2004
    Posts: 4,479

    el Scotto
    Member
    from Tracy, CA

    You're thinking of Chevrolets....
     
  18. Hi!
    Joined: Oct 4, 2006
    Posts: 731

    Hi!
    Member
    from SoCal

    They all start looking the same with the clothes off. Hahaha
     
  19. Whew, I thought I had lost the last little bit that was left.
     
  20. George/Maine
    Joined: Jan 6, 2011
    Posts: 949

    George/Maine
    Member

    I don,t think you put eveything together.I think the lower a arm may be angled back and may bring it in.Don,t go by wheel base.
    Check lower a arm ball joint for being off set.
     
  21. 26 roadster
    Joined: Apr 21, 2008
    Posts: 2,017

    26 roadster
    Member

    I have notice when you set the camber on a mII the tire moves a lot in the wheel well.
    I had a customer complain about the front end being "to far forward" only to apologize after the car was properly aligned.
     
  22. Coolie, are you using the strut rod type MII or lower a-arm? With the stock type (strut rod), the center of the crossmember should be ON the front axle centerline. If it has lower a-arms, you can run a string from one ball joint to the other and mark the ball jont centerline right on the crossmember.

    If you want to fit the suspension to the fender, set the tire in place (where YOU like it) under the fender and use a framing square to find the front and rear edge of the tire on the floor. Then find the midpoint of those 2 marks, and that will be the axle centerline YOU need for the tire fit. Mark that on both sides of the frame and then line the MII crossmemeber up with those marks.

    Don't worry about caster affecting the wheelbase...on the MII there isn't enough drop to make a lot of difference at typical street caster settings.
     

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