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Muncie M22 rebuild questions

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Boynamedsue, Nov 15, 2007.

  1. Boynamedsue
    Joined: May 11, 2005
    Posts: 238

    Boynamedsue
    Member

    Im rebuilding an M22 right now, and im having some major problems. I opened the case everything looks good my only problem was a bad syncro. well upon further inspection the problems got worse. Someone had previously rebuilt it and kinda did an incomplete job and left the clutch key springs out on the syncro hub. when they installed the hub the pressed it on and pressed the collar on, they didnt have them completley meshed properly with the splines and now neither will come off. i would leave it but when they pressed the hub on it isnt pressed far enough on the main shaft to get he snap ring on. Im afraid to go too crazy with it and try to press it off for fear of damaging the mainshaft or anything else further. Im kinda at a loss for what to do at this point. i really dont want to have to buy a new mainshaft and syncro hub. Apparently this happens quite frequently. Does anyone know any solution short of cutting the hub and collar off the shaft? Is there something im missing?
     
  2. hemi35
    Joined: Dec 9, 2006
    Posts: 282

    hemi35
    Member
    from Australia

    Sometimes your better spending a little extra cash & fixing it properly or it could come back and bite you! Id be doing the math on what it will cost to fix & perhaps unloading it and get a built super t10 of ebay for $875 unless its numbers correct for your chevelle...JMHO
     
  3. Boynamedsue
    Joined: May 11, 2005
    Posts: 238

    Boynamedsue
    Member

    an auto is going int he chevelle. the muncie is for Nick32Vic. i plan on doing it the right way, i just want to do it without damaging any other parts. they dont give parts for those away anymore so if theres something i could do to fix that problem without doing so im going to try.
     
  4. Revhead
    Joined: Mar 19, 2001
    Posts: 3,027

    Revhead
    Member
    from Dallas, TX

    You might want to send this guy a note and ask him. He's been a lot of help to me when I rebuilt my last 2 muncies.

    http://www.kajunjon.com/Main/

    He also sells a lot of parts for M-22s so if something does happen there might be a way to fix it.
     

  5. M-22 parts are rather pricey, but it is a great tranny behind big torque engines. I have a rebuilt one under the work bench in my shop that I am saving for my '50 GMC. I had it behind a 283 in my 58 Chevy with 3.73 gears and the ratio between 1 & 2 gear was very wide. I could easily hit 45 in first without reving the engine too hard. An M20 or 21 would give a better ratio or as Hemi35 said a Super T-10. I love mine and the gear noise natural to these transmissions too, but it works much better with a big block and 4.x-1 rear gears. At least mine does. Mine came out of a 67 big block car originally so it may be just my particular transmission geared this way.
     
  6. primed55
    Joined: Feb 7, 2005
    Posts: 313

    primed55
    Member

    I've been told a thousand times it's a m-22 only to find (at best) a big tail shaft 21. I've only actuly seen one real one in person but if this is in fact a real one then it's worth the money to fix correctly, and there's alot of people making parts for em now.

    CD Cheif FYI: M-21 & M-22 have the same gear ratio "close" so i don't know how it could be too wide in your 283? Plus they where never offered in Chevelles before 1970 (only Corvettes). So i'd pull your side cover and double check what you really have, because it sounds to me like a noisy m-20.
     
  7. Shaggy
    Joined: Mar 6, 2003
    Posts: 5,208

    Shaggy
    Member
    from Sultan, WA

    Primed55, I belive they did cone in some 60's Chevelles and i know they were in 60's Camaros
     
  8. primed55
    Joined: Feb 7, 2005
    Posts: 313

    primed55
    Member

    Here's a link to some info and alot of ID tips

    http://www.yearone.com/updatedsinglepages/Id_info/muncie.asp

    It also states they weren't in Chevelles untill the 70's but i won't be surpised to find them in a few custom ordered cars or like a ZL-1 or something, but i'm sure they would be very far and few in between.
     
  9. kiotes
    Joined: Sep 26, 2007
    Posts: 254

    kiotes
    Member

    boynamedsue this is what I would do if I were you. I would just give that old worn out M22 to me and use the TH350 Ill just give to you because Im just that nice of a guy. I dont know about you but that sound like a pretty good trade to me.


    HE HE HE
     
  10. Russco
    Joined: Nov 27, 2005
    Posts: 4,180

    Russco
    Member
    from Central IL

    You need to get it apart, its not un common for the mainshaft to have wear under the gears anyway and should be checked any parts you need can now be bought from several venders I have used Paul at 5speed.com in the past. I just sold My 69 Camaro to a guy from Bethatlo it had a M22 in it and while they didnt come in alot of cars they did sell them over the counter with a CT code stamped on them.
     
  11. Mines been rebuilt in the last 4 years and confirmed that it is a M22. I never said it came from a Chevelle, just that it came from a big block car. I had to replace the input shaft, bearing carrier, and a few other pieces at the time. I have had the tranny for about 20 years.
     
  12. Nick32vic
    Joined: Jul 17, 2003
    Posts: 3,029

    Nick32vic
    Member

    If you want I can get you in touch with the guy that rebuilds my trannys for me......Let me know.
     
  13. Boynamedsue
    Joined: May 11, 2005
    Posts: 238

    Boynamedsue
    Member

    this is a 68/69 M22 from a chevelle, Nova, or camaro. everything in the inside and case numbers check out as to that being what it is. I'm not 100% sure he may chime in later but Hes mentioned putting it behind a big block buick. The M22 is perfect for what he wants it for. although it does have a wide first gear that can be fixed by rear gears. from the way the mainshaft to hub splines look the hub was pressed on when not full engaged in the splines. its done some damage thats for sure. to prove the strenght of it. when i put it in the press and put 30 tons on it, it didnt move but bent the piss out of the beam. Other than taking a cutoff wheel and cutting the hub off and the collar off im at a loss. im sure its not going to be easy, it will be like cutting through a wrist pin. if thats what i have to do thats what i have to do i guess.
     
  14. hemi35
    Joined: Dec 9, 2006
    Posts: 282

    hemi35
    Member
    from Australia

    Most trans shops charge around $200 plus parts to rebuild your box, why not take it to a pro who has delt with sort of problem before as they will know exactly what to do. It could save you money in the long run....JMHO
     
  15. Nick32vic
    Joined: Jul 17, 2003
    Posts: 3,029

    Nick32vic
    Member

    Its my transmission and he is my best friend, who needed a transmission to rebuild for his transmission class so he can get his degree to be the guy who charges $200 plus parts.
     
  16. Nick32vic
    Joined: Jul 17, 2003
    Posts: 3,029

    Nick32vic
    Member

    Oh and yeah, its going behind a 425 Buick in case anyone was wondering.
     
  17. Gator Mc Klusky
    Joined: Apr 18, 2006
    Posts: 308

    Gator Mc Klusky
    Member

  18. BigChief
    Joined: Jan 14, 2003
    Posts: 2,084

    BigChief
    Member

    Again....somebody with plenty of Muncie experience - rather than just learning the art - may be able to both get the parts separated with minimal damage AND may even teach the new kid some tricks.....its probably worth the phone call or two.

    -Bigchief.
     
  19. Boynamedsue
    Joined: May 11, 2005
    Posts: 238

    Boynamedsue
    Member

    well i got if apart now and there was previous damage. due to the fact that someone had already rebuilt it and didnt do a complete job. Personally i prefer not to do things wrong hence the reason i did what i did. nothing was damaged. in the cluster gear after counting all the rollers there were 7 missing(i pulled the countershaft out while the case sat in a deep pan to make sure none of the rollers were lost the counter them and checked for damage). also all the shims and many of the snap rings were left out, the thing was barely together previuosly. I'm not building it alone im doing it with supervision of a teacher who is a transmission specialist and is very good at what he does. under the conditions it had been built before it wouldnt have held together for more than a neutral to first shift. its halfway together excluding the syncro hub that was damaged previously and the the snap rings, shims and rollers that are missing.

    Now im not going to say im awesome at this or im the best, im way far from it. However i have quite a few under my belt. If you ever get a chance to take a muncie apart its amazing how well it works being as primative and uncomplicated it is. If you ever want to start building transmissions i suggest you start there or with an early ford top loader they are extremely uncomlicated.
     

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