Hot Rods *Mr.Model T's New Project: A T-V8..

The next big dilemma is my shell on the '25. Not so much what shell to use...that is already figured out.

What do I use for the insert?

The '33 Chevy insert won't work, no way to cut it down.

'32 insert is well....a '32 insert.

I don't want to buy decorative screen...I'm afraid it will just look like stuff I bought at the local hardware store..

Though lt about carving up a honeycomb radiator to make a false V-shaped core insert...but that may be a pain to do...

Thoughts?

 

Stainless rod ala home made 34 ford insert? I’ve also seen brake line used for that sort of thing.

Also curious if an expanded metal from the store would work if painted black? but I don’t know that I’d like it with a crease down the center.

tough call

 

So much of this is the same as I'm thinking out on my '26 Chevy. I'd love to find a useable '26 Chevy Honeycomb radiator. I found a place that rebuilds them but it's big bucks. I found this on eBay https://www.ebay.com/itm/272222656443 but it is pricey too. There is a place that makes honeycomb stamped sheet metal but I don't like stuff that looks like other stuff.

As for headlights I have a very nice pair of '30 Chevy lights and parts to convert them to modern bulbs. I can tolerate a bit of "looks like" here. The lens is a big flat 10" piece. I have a '40s- '50s set to 7" sealed beams. But they don't look as cool as the big ones. Proportions will make the call here once the car is far enough along to tell. Big flat surfaces pushing air will slow you down so reducing that surface was probably as important as the better light. Remember most of these guys had been exposed to fast boats & planes during the war and aerodynamics were applied to their cars.
I have gathered some more "maybe parts" lately that I need to post on my thread and get input like you are doing here. I need to do an update there any way. It's stalled again.

 

Headlights are like tits. Bigger is better as long as you keep everything proportional.

 

I've never seen an Olympic Gold Medalist for any speed event with big headlights.

 

You need to talk to someone with a plasma or water jet and do a custom designed insert, then it won't look like you bought it at home depot.

 

I looked at that stuff, don't know how I feel about it yet. I would have to see it in person and with the shell.

So this is the stuff i wanted to use originally. This is actually a great price and may have to jump on this. When i first found this stuff.....I have seen it listed for $800 a sheet, which is insane.

I agree, bigger is normally better for headlights. On this car though, I'm really going for Historical correctness....but I'm still undecided, lol!

Not a bad idea to be honest. I will have to look into this.

 

If building an insert with the awesome grille you have that I’m jealous and in love with. I’d try to get as close to another beautifully designed car from the era. The cord l-29. Probably run an aluminum strip down the center on the outside of the shell, nicely hand polished for a era correct sheen. Then painted grill bars within the shell itself. And doable easily at home with basic materials.

 

Honestly, this is sort of the way I was thinking in the beginning. The shape of this shell reminds me a lot of both the Model J Duesenberg and the the 1919 Miller "TNT Special", but is also reminiscent of the Cord L-29 for sure.







The major issue is making the slats or shutter. I'm not rally a metal worker, so I don't really trust myself to make them well enough to look like it's almost factory. I could find an insert and alter it....but I don't know if I would be able.to find one that fits.

I also though of cutting some slabs of old honeycomb radiator core to make an insert...but I'm not 100% on that either.

I do agree with you 100% though...this shell deserves something special.

 

I read somewhere that you can buy thin honey comb to fit in front of you new regular radiator . JW

 

Thanks for sharing your build.

 

I don’t think the slats would be difficult. I think if you looked at online metal resources you might find something very close and easy to work with. Kinda like the molding around the top of a model t roadster body. When I reshape the top edge of my 25 I’ll loose that. I found that there is half round brass molding strip that can easily replace it and look exactly the same as the factory molding and replace the stiffness removed from the tubs top edge. I think you could definitely build a cord or model j inspired insert with less metal shaping skill than you think!

 

For your insert, take a look at stainless steel wire cloth on McMaster-Carr. Lots to choose from.

 

I think some thin brass half-Round straight pieces to make some false Duesenberg style louver slats might be the trick..

 

This is probably not much help but in NZ and probably the UK there is a mid 1930s Morris rotting away under every hedge. Many of them had radiator grills fitted with fake 5/16 honeycomb insert. I bought one for a few dollars and am fitting it to my roadster which previously had brass mess insert bought from a local hardware store. Sadly I suspect not many Morris hedges in the US - maybe the Ebay hedge.

 

https://www.mcnichols.com/perforated-metal/hexagonal-hole
https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Hon...Q597VNT/ref=pd_lpo_2?pd_rd_i=B07Q597VNT&psc=1

 

Ultimately, this is what I had originally wanted. These panels are not big enough (Opening on mine is 18"x29"), but there has to be that is bulk sheet form..

Ask and ye shall receive! lol. I'm gonna check this out as an option, this might be perfect.

 

any currents updates....? hopefully found a grille insert material to your liking...

 

I'll put up a larger update tomorrow, but I have been pushing forward. As for the radiator shell, I'm weighing options.

My first choice is to order a selection of brass oval half-round stock to build a false shutter insert similar to this Duesenberg radiator:



I was also gifted this McNichol's Catolog in the mail that does have some great screen alternatives..







More tomorrow

Mr.Model T

 

Update: One step forward, two steps back..

After finishing off the rear frame pinch and the drop, I mocked up the car and realized it was WAY to high and i could never get it low enough by conventional dropping means...not without some collision in the suspension. This ment that my only solution was to take a step or two backward and do what i should done from the start: use the '26-'27 crossmember I had set aside for this in the beginning.

I had used the early '25-earlier crossmember for two reasons: 1) it was the correct length and 2) it was already out of the frame, ready to go. The only issue is with the early ones are not as deep as the cars were taller. The later '26-'27 cars used a different crossmember with a deeper pocket and a substantially higher arch. This lowered the car about 4" more.

I got to work on lay out and removing the one I had just put in in.








I cut the old crossmember out the old Crossmember and left the back plates where they welded to the frame to act as a pad to weld to...



Then got everything welded up..




Looks like i got the stance right this time....







More to come..

~ Mr. Model T

 

Forgot to add I started working on wishbones and got both pairs of split '32 wishbones welded up the same day as the frame. Trimmed to length, pie-cut, tapered and welded up..



Next are the rears. Since i have a '36 Columbia axle for this car, i had to dig up a set of '36 radius rods. Was debating on the best way to shorten them so they don't look weird. I think my plan will be to remove '36 ends and swap the tube portion from a set of '41-'48 Lincoln ones that are just about the right length for how short i need to trim the drive shaft down. Should be pretty straight forward as i did that same deal years ago on the A bones i used on my Black '27.





More coming..

~ Mr. Model T

 

Stance looks great now!

 

I think so too! The front was always pretty solid (Hard to go wrong with a good drop axle and a reverse eye spring), but the Rear stance is the most important and will make or break the whole car.

When i put it together with the original early crossmember....it was WAY too tall:



After switching to the 4" lower drop '26-'27 crossmember, I think we are right about on the money:



I didn't want the top of the wheel over the turtledeck, but i didn't want it WAY below it either. There may be a bit of adjustment needed as we add weight, but i think we are just about perfect.

 

Outside Mock-up..

After getting the frame sorted, i had the opportunity to push it outside to really get a good look at the stance:









Naturally...this meant i needed to Photoshop them a bit further to get the effect with the radiator shell installed.

Slatted Shell..


Non-Slatted:


Beauty shot...


What does everyone think? I think we nailed it.

~ Mr. Model T

 

I like it just the way it sits with the possible exception of the vertical location of the radiator. Is it in its final location?

The suspension/stance is spot on.

 

Just about. It's a 1920s Sprint car radiator shell, so it's supposed to be vertical. I plan to give it a slight lean back to get the filler neck straight.

 

The body on the black “build billboard” roadster at top appears lower-slung/channeled than your mock-up. Am I just seeing things?

 

No, you aren't. The on my header is Ed Iskadarian's T and was my inspiration. His car does sit a bit lower than mine based on how we did our suspension. As a traditional "spring over axle" setup, I'm at the limit of how low I can go without channeling the body...which I don't want to do.

It's not a copy or a clone, it's my take that is heavily inspired by.

 

^^^and however you do it’s gonna be biTchin!

 

Looks pretty spot on! In the side view with out a grill it feels like it could come up just a hair in the back but with a grill it may fix that visually.

It looks perfect in all the other photos so I’m thinking my eyes probably catching some body line that’s making it read nose up when it’s not.