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Mounting radiator sideways?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by jmlcolorado, Feb 18, 2012.

  1. fordcragar
    Joined: Dec 28, 2005
    Posts: 3,198

    fordcragar
    Member
    from Yakima WA.

    I used a crossflow radiator and turned it in my daughters 36 Chev PU. It works great, been there for over 10 year with no problems.
     
  2. LowerthanLife
    Joined: Jan 3, 2010
    Posts: 283

    LowerthanLife
    Member

    photoshop thread...those guys over there are amazing and always hook it up.
     
  3. Dale Fairfax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2006
    Posts: 2,585

    Dale Fairfax
    Member Emeritus

    Go for it-the core doesn't know (or care) whether the water is moving side to side or from top to bottom.
     
  4. n847
    Joined: Apr 22, 2010
    Posts: 2,724

    n847
    Member

  5. Engine man
    Joined: Jan 30, 2011
    Posts: 3,480

    Engine man
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    On most engines, including the one pictured with the radiator in question, the lower radiator hose connects to the water pump. The pump pushes the water through the block and heads and out of the intake manifold via the thermostat housing. Hot water enters the radiator top or side tank and moves to the bottom or other side tank as air flows over the radiator core and cools it. Lower cars use a cross flow to get more surface area without sticking out of the hood.

    Radiators originally were used vertically so they used the effect of gravity to cool before water pumps. As the coolant gets warm, it is less dense and rises in the engine. The warm coolant would rise and transfer via a hose to the top of the radiator. Coolant in the radiator cools as air flows over the core, becoming denser and sinking to the bottom of the radiator and going to the bottom of the engine to heat up again.
     
  6. a rad doesn't care how it's mounted as long as there is enough air flow to cool what ever is flowing through it
     
  7. badshifter
    Joined: Apr 28, 2006
    Posts: 3,538

    badshifter
    Member

    Love that you are building away. Hate that it's being force fed to the HAMB.
     
  8. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 12,355

    Hnstray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Quincy, IL


    not quite sure why you quoted me. Are you agreeing with me and elaborating on the process or attempting to correct my loose use of the term 'pumps' when I referred to "pumps hot water out the top of the engine....". :confused:

    If that is the intent, then I will concede that the hot water is "pushed" out the top, not pumped .......by the pump pulling cooler water into the lower part and pushing it through........a distinction without a difference, IMO :rolleyes:

    But, if you were agreeing with me, and just reinforcing the information....well then :D

    Ray
     
  9. Mike Moreau
    Joined: Sep 16, 2011
    Posts: 291

    Mike Moreau
    Member

    Getting back to the original reason for the thread, advice. You may want to consider moving the filler cap to the top or at least rotating it so the cap is horizontal. You will not be able to fill the top tank the way it is set up now. I think you need to get some kind of filler higher than the tank.
     
  10. Buddy Palumbo
    Joined: Mar 30, 2008
    Posts: 3,871

    Buddy Palumbo
    Member

    From his first post (or at least the way I'm reading it) , that's his intention ...


    The truck might not be everyone's cup of tea , but build what you like , cause it's gonna be in your driveway !
     
    Last edited: Feb 19, 2012
  11. 1971BB427
    Joined: Mar 6, 2010
    Posts: 8,759

    1971BB427
    Member
    from Oregon

    Yes, you'll need to have the fill neck reworked or relocated to get it to the highesst point above the tank. Otherwise you'll have an air pocket and overheat.
     
  12. jmlcolorado
    Joined: Jun 10, 2011
    Posts: 13

    jmlcolorado
    Member
    from Parker, CO

    glad to hear someone here still has that mind frame. If I were building it for everyone else, I wouldn't be building it it all :)

    Thats the plan. I just wanted to hear some input before I go possibly ruin a perfectly good radiator.

    I will be moving the cap to the new top so that it's the highest point in the system.

    Thanks everyone for your words of advice!
     
  13. Cerberus
    Joined: May 24, 2010
    Posts: 1,392

    Cerberus
    Member

    Here's mine on its side. Petcock for draining the radiator is useless, but can yank a hose to drain. The fill neck was relocated. Dimensionally fits nicely.
     

    Attached Files:

  14. Mike Moreau
    Joined: Sep 16, 2011
    Posts: 291

    Mike Moreau
    Member

    Buddy, You are correct. I guess my memory is getting to the point that I can't remember two pages of posts. I will have to start taking notes before I shoot my mouth off.
     
  15. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 33,979

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Abomination / abortion vehicle wise equal the same thing. That truck might just look fantastic if you got rid of the ratrod crap and put the fenders that belong on it back on it along with a sectioned hood.
    Full fendered with a hood with no bumps and slicked out it would be good looking truck.
     
  16. jmlcolorado
    Joined: Jun 10, 2011
    Posts: 13

    jmlcolorado
    Member
    from Parker, CO

    I've looked into refitting the front fenders and the hood twice now. I wish I could run them cause the trucks would
    Look KILLER with all the original sheet metal on it, but it's too wide up front, dropped too much and the engine would be sticking out the hood.

    Trust me, it's been a thought..
     
  17. Mr 42
    Joined: Mar 27, 2003
    Posts: 1,215

    Mr 42
    Member
    from Sweden

    Why is the roof leaning backward??
    You need to chop it 2" more in the front.

    Saying that its your "car" and you do what you want,,
     
  18. jmlcolorado
    Joined: Jun 10, 2011
    Posts: 13

    jmlcolorado
    Member
    from Parker, CO

    That's cause it is 2" too tall in the front. Truth is, I fucked it up. Being that this is my 1st build, and the first thing I did was chop it, I wasn't educated enough to know you need to take 7" out if the rear, and 8.5-9" out of the front.
    If I had more space to work in, I likely would have noticed the error earlier and corrected it before getting so far on it.
    It bugs the shit outta me but my first order of business is to get it road worthy. I will eventually hate it enough to properly chop the 2 additional Inches out. All the door frames are tack welded together for now for that reason.
     
  19. Buddy Palumbo
    Joined: Mar 30, 2008
    Posts: 3,871

    Buddy Palumbo
    Member

    Noone can remember everything (except my wife , lol) - I just happened to remember this time .
    Cheers !
     
  20. Mr 42
    Joined: Mar 27, 2003
    Posts: 1,215

    Mr 42
    Member
    from Sweden

    Ok
    Maybe you are starting a new backward chop trend ;-)

    It will be a nice ride when you get it out on the road.
     
  21. LowerthanLife
    Joined: Jan 3, 2010
    Posts: 283

    LowerthanLife
    Member

    just keep going , you'll get it to where youre happy with it.
    and youre right, get it up and running and then mess w the body, etc.
    good luck with the build, dont stop!
     
  22. smarg
    Joined: Nov 18, 2008
    Posts: 1,068

    smarg
    Member

    This would be even cooler if the sheetmetal was hanging off the front.
     

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