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mounting engine

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by jtbloye, Apr 19, 2009.

  1. jtbloye
    Joined: Mar 4, 2009
    Posts: 30

    jtbloye
    Member

    I'm trying to put a 240 inline 6cyl in my 48 chevy pick-up that is sitting on a 97 ford ranger chasis i would like know how to crate this engineor some way to mount it i have tried to make some motor mounts but the motor doesnt sit right any help would be great.

    im building a rod out of these parts i do not wish to buy another engine like 350 chev or 302 ford i want to run these parts and low budget
     
  2. i'm not familiar with a 240 inline 6 , or a ford ranger chassis....so i will just give you some advice off the top of my head. block the engine firmly in place exactly where you want it to be with wooden blocks or whatever. make sure it is level side to side and that the motor is titling the correct angle. i would then try to figure out some frame brackets that will use the stock 240 rubber mounts...maybe they will work , or maybe not? make patterns for these frame mounts out of cardboard first , it's easier and cheaper to work with if you mess them up the first time. check for fit , then make the real ones out of steel. depending on your design 3/16 or 1/4 " should be fine

    or block it in place , then take some pictures and post them....maybe someone else will have a better idea
     
  3. forgot....while you are figuring out where to out the motor , make sure you allow for oil pan to crossmember , fan to radiator , engine to firewall and exhaust to steering box clearance. you may have to make some other modifications to make it all fit
     
  4. jtbloye
    Joined: Mar 4, 2009
    Posts: 30

    jtbloye
    Member

    here is a picture of my engine mounted on my chasis

    HOW CAN I RAISE IT
     

    Attached Files:


  5. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 29,183

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Can't see the picture.

    I've found that the best way to hang an engine where it didn't belong was to start by mounting the trans to the crossmember where it should sit and then level the engine.

    Without seeing photos I can't see what you are up against and I don't remember what those little Ranger chassis looked like except I didn't like to work on them.
     
  6. 460 willy
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 249

    460 willy
    Member
    from wisconsin

    It's hard to see but the motor looks way too far back it may just be the angle
     
  7. vertible59
    Joined: Jan 25, 2009
    Posts: 1,058

    vertible59
    Member

    Check with Chassis Engineering for some pre-fab mounts. They usually have something you can adapt, if nothing else. Their prices are reasonanble.
    Back in the day, we used the motor mount saddle from a junked car or truck to do swaps like you are attempting. Just cut the saddle with the engine mount pads from the old chassis. Bolt it to your engine and place it where you want it. Then make adapters to install the saddle in the new frame. Takes a little "backyard" engineering, but that's what hot rodders are all about...right?
     
  8. havi
    Joined: Dec 30, 2008
    Posts: 1,876

    havi
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    IMO, find a 57-72 Ford truck with a 240/300 6 and use those frame perches (frames are near the same width). Modify them to fit. either 2wd or 4x4. 73-79 Frames are wider, but those mounts might work, too. 2wd sit on the crossmember, 4x4 sit directly on the frame, so the 4x4 ones may be easier to use.

    posted same time, lol.
     
  9. fridaynitedrags
    Joined: Apr 17, 2009
    Posts: 402

    fridaynitedrags
    Member

    Looks to me like the motor needs to come down, not up. Raising it is likely to present problems with the bellhousing at the floor pan sheetmetal.

    If you're talking about the interference of the damper at the crossmember, that crossmember needs to come out. Jack the chassis up off the tires and level it front to rear and side to side with jackstands, pieces of wood, whatever is available. Make a new crossmember, maybe 3 x 3 or 3 x 4, 0.125" wall tubing and weld it into the frame rails ahead of the crossmember that's there now. Then cut the offending crossmember out. Now, the motor will drop down where it needs to be. You'll have to re-make the rear crossmember also, to put the motor at the proper 2 to 3 degree down-bubble.

    Follow vertible59's instructions for using a boneyard motor mount saddle or fabricate your own from 2 x 3 or 3 x 3 tubing. Even heavy wall round 2" tubing will work.
     
  10. JohnEvans
    Joined: Apr 13, 2008
    Posts: 4,883

    JohnEvans
    Member
    from Phoenix AZ

    Front X ,member on a Ranger has the inboard mounts for the front twin I beam,can't very well remove it . May be able to section it a bit. Ranger frame never had more than a 4 cyl inline engine,thats going to give you some problems.
     
  11. havi
    Joined: Dec 30, 2008
    Posts: 1,876

    havi
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Problems, yes. Not impossible. I would guess no matter how you position the 240, it'll need some sheetmetal trimming on the cab or radiator location.

    here's a Ranger w/300 for reference.
     

    Attached Files:

  12. jtbloye
    Joined: Mar 4, 2009
    Posts: 30

    jtbloye
    Member

    Thanks guys for all your help
     

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