Soo... I've got the Track Roadster running halfway decent - but - ignition is still breaking up un the higher rev ranges. Three things I've noticed: 1) ignition system is SUPER sensitive to water; washed the car down, let it dry, and even after washing a warm motor I'd lost spark on about 4 holes. Odd... 2) When checking for spark, the spark seems a bit thin (not a fat blue white spark like I'm used to seeing...And...there are two separate sparks several degrees apart (20?) on everr other rev. I was always under the impression dual point setups opened and closed on top of each other - or with a teeny (couple of degrees) overlap. That's not the case here - and doesn't seem right. 3) For some odd reason, I can't spool it up under light loads in 1st, but if I wack both carbs open, I can get the car to pull pretty hard to about 45-50 MPH in second. That makes no sense to me - unless the weak spark is having difficulty igniting a lean mix (no power valve enrichment) When observing the point open/close event, it's clearly evident that the open and close at separate intervals. I'm aware of make contact/break contact dual point systems (my '55 chrysler has that) but the Mallory isn't wired thataway - I think. Anyway - need some help thinking this thru. Finally - on wires... I've speedway SS wire looms with clear red wire (again from speeday) threaded thru them. D'ya think I'm getting a short to ground off the wire looms? Is there a prob with the clear red wires? This motor NEEDS to sing, and I've yet to have it WFO in the cam's powerband....it's got enough time on it now to flog it - and I can't! Once again - your help talking this thru is appreciated.
Mallory type popints are same as early V8...cycles overlap to extend dwell. Water prob souns like bad plastic or molding (surprise!) catching the water...look for ridges where pieces of mold came together, and lines forming bewteem terminals, etc. I think rotor and cap are something normal, so would best be replaced with brand name parts. If points function entirely at separate times, something is seriously wrong--I don't think even a major gap change (original M points only good for a few hundred miles) could move events that far--but reset gaps and then put on a protractor and trouble light and map events.
Kinda stupid question? Well i have done it!! You do use a ballast resistor? And check your charging! Mine was beaking up at higher RPM, got a while before i found out that it over-charged, almost 16V. Br Kjell ---------------------- Taildragger&fenderless
UPDATE: Tore into the dizzy again today... 1) #4 hole in cap was off center allowing occasional spark. opened up the hople and filed plastic outta hole. 2) gap between rotor and dizzy was HUGE - over.200. elongated hole in rotor bus bar so's to reduce the gap by 0.060". 3) Points sucked. had to file align and reset them - crap. 4) added in the front carb and took the critter for a spin... HOT DAMN! The car pulls like a friggin hot rod to about 4000 RPM B4 the motor breaks up..hafta figure that out. Now it runs kinda like I expected - still need the top end to keep the motor on the cam... Gettin' closer. big prob is the rad - with the motor workin', she now runs at 225 - 230. too hot; will swap out rad for a higher eff one soon.
As for the wires..... I was thinking of getting a set and knew my buddy's dad had 'em on his flatty. I called him and asked if they were any good and he said they could see 'em sparking on anything metal nearby when he drove at night. Kinda had a miss too if I remember right, but anyhow he changed 'em out and swore never to buy them again. From what he was describing it didn't sound like the insulation was sufficient. Hope this helps! Johnny
Chuck, WD-40 will solve your moisture problem. Just spray in and on everything. Never thought about the rotor gap, sounds like it was way off. BTW i have the old style caps as well as the new style msd one you can try if you think that will help. Keep us informed.....
When i had my 69 Nova SS with a 396 I used to run The mallory dual point and Never had any issues with it. and This motor seen 8000 rpms Very offen.They way I used to set mine up was to set it by the dwell Unhook One set. Then Set it. Then Unhook and do the same to the other. Then Hook them both back up. Only time i had any brake-up troubles is when a condencer was going bad.
If you think the wire's bad do you have anything that you could substitute? Even a cheapie set for something else. I have had to do that, a small block Mo-par (318, 5.2 Magnum) is the cheapest I have found for socketed caps and spark plugs. For Plug terminals at both ends I have found an 86 ish Chevy truck set to be cheapest, not that I expect the Mallory has the spark plug type terminals on the cap. I havent found any but if I could find some spiral core wire that looked like Packard 440 that would be about ideal IMHO.
Well it was built to run & it was also bored to a 427 had a muncie 4speed. I had this car back in the late 70s Not that I did 8000 in it everyday But It was there WAY more then Once and I never had any issue with.Sorry i can't realy tell you more about it.Cause it's been wayyyyy to long now to remember. Dang this crs LOL
If it's been way to long to remember--you undoubtedly had a real Mallory from when they were made like Rolls Royce parts, and designed to handle anything...those days are long gone at Mallory.
Yeah I think quality has gone to The Dogs a LONG time ago. No body seems to care about it ,ALL They want are your Bucks and it's CYA
They make condoms for dizzys, buy one. Always have fresh points, a spare set in the glove box, and pull your dizzy and have it dyno-ed. You wont have any high end crackling
The Jalopy Journal
