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More help needed from the PPG experts.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by usmile4, Nov 11, 2012.

  1. usmile4
    Joined: Jul 28, 2005
    Posts: 689

    usmile4
    Member

    first of all, thanks for all the advice on my first questions:

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=750712

    Today my painter (who is used to repairing newer cars on site rather than doing whole cars like my 51) put on the DBC 2000 base coat and the Clear. He did a nice job of the color and other than 2 "flow checks" with the clear on the doors it looks pretty good. I don't even see too much orange peel at first view.

    I have a few questions on how to proceed from here.

    1. How long should I let it cure before removing the paper and masking-I used the yellow tape?

    2. How long before wet sanding?

    3. The doors are off the car now. When I mount the doors I want to mask the edges. Is there a better tape for this or just rub it across my shirt first?

    Any and all suggestions are welcome.
     
  2. Which clear and hardener?
     
  3. usmile4
    Joined: Jul 28, 2005
    Posts: 689

    usmile4
    Member

    PPG Omni MC161 MH 168
     
  4. Fly'n Kolors
    Joined: Sep 21, 2008
    Posts: 407

    Fly'n Kolors
    Member

    Kind of hard to tell from here. Ask your painter? Only he knows how many coats went on, at what flash time, at what temperature.
     

  5. Moonequipt13
    Joined: Jul 9, 2012
    Posts: 196

    Moonequipt13
    Member

    You can de-mask as soon as the clear is dry enough to touch. You start sanding the clear as soon as it no longer fingerprints, it makes it a bit easier to sand rather than letting it cure for days. Basically any masking tape is fine, use 3M blue safe release tape if you want to be totally cautious, as long as everything was prepped well even the yellow tape won't peel your paint though
     
  6. Was is painted in a booth with an oven? What temp was it baked at? Today's finishes are applied to a surface with a metal temp of 160, baked, and you can typically unmask relitevley quick. There are some clears that have a 15 minute rub time! Think about this production shops are squirting in the AM and delivering in the PM!. Always pull a P sheet from the product you are sparaying. If ya baked it, you can de-mask and rub in the next 24 hours with no issues
     
  7. Blue safe release tape??? Thats for houses!! are you talking about 471 vinyl tape?? Our best Automotive tape is the Green 233+, than tan Highland 2727, than the Yellow tape.
     
  8. yetiskustoms
    Joined: May 22, 2009
    Posts: 1,930

    yetiskustoms
    Member

    THE omni clear lays out pretty nice and wet sands easily.
    1. You can pull Theasking and tape when its not printing and hand slick. Earlier if you dont touch The clear. I usually leave it till im done cutting and buffing. That way there is less to clean up.

    2. Cut and buffing can be done after a normal cure. if its air dried, times will vary. Air dry i like to let it sit a few days, then cut it with 800,1200, let it sit another day, then 3000 before all The buffing stages. All 3-m hookit/trizac. Hand wet sand as needed. But thats getting off track....

    3. You can do The tape on shirt trick, or just some crappy blue House Paint tape. Does not leave much adhesive.

    Good luck
     
  9. Moonequipt13
    Joined: Jul 9, 2012
    Posts: 196

    Moonequipt13
    Member

    Zoinks scoob! Yes, you can use tape for houses on cars, he's using it to protect edges and doesn't want anything to peel, read before posting please
     
  10. usmile4
    Joined: Jul 28, 2005
    Posts: 689

    usmile4
    Member

    It is air drying and it is about 65 here today but it is supposed to drop into the 30-40 range later tonight. The product sheet says 16 hrs but that is at 70 so I htink I will let it sit a few days. I was jsut wondering if I should pull the masking tape and paper early so it does not pull the clear below it (two tone at the belt line.)
     
  11. Moonequipt13
    Joined: Jul 9, 2012
    Posts: 196

    Moonequipt13
    Member

    Wait, how is this masked? Usually with a two tone, you spray your lighter color first, mask and spray your darker color, all the masking is removed and the whole car is cleared
     
  12. usmile4
    Joined: Jul 28, 2005
    Posts: 689

    usmile4
    Member

    Originally that is how it was done, but we had some "issues" with the first paint job, so we have had to do some "correcting" and re-shooting. so the top was finished some weeks ago so it was taped and the bottom done today.
     
  13. yetiskustoms
    Joined: May 22, 2009
    Posts: 1,930

    yetiskustoms
    Member

    most paint products recomend temps between 70-77 deg. below 55 deg. the paint stops drying and can have some side effects. keep air movement on or around the clear no matter what temp to help draw out the solvents and help it dry faster. its all about heat and airflow.
     
  14. usmile4
    Joined: Jul 28, 2005
    Posts: 689

    usmile4
    Member

    it got down to 30 degrees last night and it has only warmed up to 35. The old guy who owns the shop doesn't turn on the heat until it gets real cold but it is a big old cement block building that warms up in the afternoon when the sun comes in through the windows on the West side of the building. The whole week it is supposed to be 30 or below at night warming to mid 40's during the week.
     
  15. yetiskustoms
    Joined: May 22, 2009
    Posts: 1,930

    yetiskustoms
    Member

    well your better off to wait,tors in your catalyst have their own issues. painting is a chemical process that require the right conditions. i have painted cars in pretty cold temps. rework is a bitch. if you could drag in some heaters to get the surface temp to at least 55 deg your in buisness. like i always say " want it bad, get it bad" . i just hate when you put so much prep time into something just to slap a quicky on it. always comes back to bite.
     

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