Mopar Polyhead. Drop In? Swap?????

There is 318 poly for sale near Philly... its either a 66 or 67 block. It was originally in a Coronet. It has a 727 behind it... I can give you an email if anyone is interested. I was looking @ but it then found a '63 361 w/ 727 push button... I have tons of BB mopar stuff so this set up is going to the machine shop... then in the 41 Hudson. It should look good with an STR-11. <o></o>

 

I have a poly motor for sale...I realize this is the wrong spot for it, but here goes.

it is a 1957 326 out of a Coronet.-2 barrel carb. it killed off a couple of pushrods, and we had to have some made. it ran when pulled, but needs to be rebuilt (i.m.h.o.) no smoking or knocking...just not alot of power at all. the trans is still in the car, but can go with the motor-3 speed standard.
we are stuffing a newer 318 in it, so everything goes. I don't need it.

Lemme know if you are interested!
Lux

 

I really want a HEMI poly not a Wideblock poly.

LUX BLUE the 326 sounds pretty cool. But, Texas is a long drive.

I don't know, I would really hate to settle for a wide block and regret it later.

 

The 326 is an "A" Poly,not a Hemi Poly.

 

Yea I know that is why I said the thing about regretting buying a wideblock "A" poly.

Started to PM some people that had some ads in the classifieds for HEMI polys.

 

This is all under the assumption that this is the original engine to this car, but....

The 326 poly is a one year, one model only poly and was only in '59 dodge coronets.

If you got this poly out of a '57 dodge coronet it is actually a 325 poly, which is hemi based.

 

Before that the polys were almost similar ,but the 301 poly from Canada and exported to Australia( chrysler royals) and England ( Bristol 401 etc ) is smaller and nothing interchanges.
All poly A engines 1956-67 are almost completely interchangable, one deck height, all head casting interchange, all pumps, distributors, rods, cranks.
Sorry but you are VERY wrong.

Speaking from experience here. The Small poly I mention has heads which are 1/2" shorter in overall length and you can recognise them by the different oil filter setup .Nothing and mean NOTHING interchanges on to the last and most common Poly as you would find in a mid sixties Plymouth etc.
I note I said "four types of polys,I should have said "dozens"...LOL!

 

Lux Blue, Which one does it look like?

1957 HEMI based poly 325




or "A" Poly (WIDEBLOCK)

 

Try Plydo for the motor mounts. They specialize in that kind of swap. Don't bother asking for a catalog. 304 475 3245

 

it's the wideblock poly- and I got the year between the Coronet (59) we are working on and the Belvedere(57) we are also working on confused. sorry to muck it up, Fellas.

 

I have the poly from my 55 and tranny that I would sell cheap, but it needs the oil pan repaired and a rod replaced.

I don't think a 318 A will bolt up to your tranny, but it sharing parts from the LA is a huge plus. (bearings, timing chain, chain cover, crank, water pump, etc..)

 

Dodge or Plymouth?

What happened to the rod and the oil pan?

 

Well I figured out why the old six was running hot. About 1/4 of the water jacket on the side of the block was all black gooey mud. Took one of the freeze plugs out excepting to have coolant gushing out but i was greeted to a wall of mud. Bunch of prodding around with a screwdriver and then the brown chunky water came oozing out. It's all flushed now.

 

Its a Plymouth. Not sure. PO pulled the car from a field and got the engine running. When he started to clean everything up he found the hole in the pan and thought it was the block. The rod broke before the PO bought it and punched through the pan. Said it never knocked. Im putting in a 383 w/ 727, so I don't need the engine or the auto transmission, and if I could get a pair of fender skirts for the plymouth I would be thrilled

 

well tom, going to revive this thread. Would that be a 241 hemi in that 54?

 

The flathead sixes are capable of rpms around 5500. The shorter 230 will wind tighter than the 250/265 due to the difference in crank length.

If you don't modify the crank bearing's oil groove and make sure your crank is feeding all the rods directly off its adjacent main, they will fail at higher rpms.

Once you have your oiling straightened out - she'll high the high notes in a hurry with the right carburetion.

A critical item in the cooling department is the distribution tube located behind the water pump. Its a sheet metal tube that extends the length of the block and directs the water from the pump under the valve pockets. It gets cruddy and stopped up due to the smallish holes used to even out the water flow around the valves and cylinder.

Take the water pump off and give the distribution tube a good rodding out. You'll help its cooling alot more than digging the crud out from behind the freeze plugs. Most older flathead inlines didn't even have water jackets there because that section of the cylinder doesn't see alot of heat. The topside does, and is where your distribution tube is.

Good luck, don't give up on that little six yet.

Hud