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Mopar guys, Jonnyhotrod needs some help...

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Jonnyhotrod, Jul 29, 2008.

  1. Jonnyhotrod
    Joined: Jul 27, 2003
    Posts: 430

    Jonnyhotrod
    Member

    I'm working like a madman trying to get my coupe on the road before the New England weather goes to shit, which is 9+ months of the year and am running into a few problems.

    My "A" coupe is powered by a '64 Chrysler 413 with a push-button Torqueflite. The motor has been freshened up a bit with a head job, new timing chain, etc. Up until about a week ago, I could rev the shit out of the motor (with old carb) with no problem; then things went awry. I had adjusted the trans cables using a test light to find the Neutral location on the trans (when safety switch grounded, light came on etc...). Timing has been set with vacuum advance locked with a plug and a screw in the hose to 10 degrees BTDC (I also tried less advance for the older mill with no difference in the symptoms outlined below).
    I have a brand new Edelbrock 600 CFM Performer carb for it, as the accelerator pump cylinder in the old AFB was pitted and the seal worn (meaning no fuel to the carb over idle due to no pumping pressure and no squirting into the venturies) I think that all the running I've done lately dissolved the varnish in the carb which was allowing the acc. pump to work... My initial though was that the carb was shitty and was causing the problem which is this:

    When I attempt to rev the motor it bottoms out at about 2500 RMP (I'm guessing based on sound and haven't checked it with a Tach/dwell) and that's it... She doesn't get any more at WOT and spuuters and nearly cuts out unless I lay off the trottle and then back to a smooth idle. As mentioned before, I've adjusted the timing to the specs in my MoToRs manual. The new carb seems ok too, as it squirts fuel, unlike the old one.

    So, the motor simply bogs down upon acceleration... The old guy that owns the shop came over this morning when I was trying to fix this and he said it sounded like the trans was in gear and/or the engine under load, as he heard it from his house next door. I started the car again and took it out of Park via the park lever and it kicked into gear briefly (reverse). It wasn't full on reverse, but wanted to walk a bit; fortunately my foot was on the brake at the time so it didn't go through the shop into the paint booth or beyond. I plan on readjusting the cables tonight after work, but am not sure that's the root of the problem. Even if it were slipping into gear slightly, I'd think that it would still be able to get over the current RMP range, or am I wrong? I took it out on the road the other day in Drive and it would peak out at about the same RPM range... The tires lit up, but it never shifted and peaked at about 2500. I backed it up, and reverse was a HARD shift, causing the car to jump a bit with the brake fully depressed.

    I wouldn't think that a minor maladjustment in the trans could cause so many problems (if that's the route of it), but it's all I can think of, considering the timing is ok and it has a new carb, and still the same symptoms as when I was running the old craptastic AFB. Another though I had was that the vacuum advance on the distributor isn't working properly, but I was sure to attach the line to the timed advance terminal on the carb as opposed to the manifold vacuum terminal. Any help is greatly appreciated.

    Thanks for any input.

    Jonny
     
    Last edited: Jul 29, 2008
  2. Gotgas
    Joined: Jul 22, 2004
    Posts: 6,998

    Gotgas
    Member
    from DFW USA

    Get a timing light on it. I had a broken vaccum advance that did the same thing.

    But it was a small block Ford. :D
     
  3. Jonnyhotrod
    Joined: Jul 27, 2003
    Posts: 430

    Jonnyhotrod
    Member

    Initial timing is good. Didn't have a chance to see what happens with a little trottle. Will check it out after work. Hopefully a readjust of the shift linkage makes a difference... I have a NOS dual-point Mallory for it that may yield better results if I can't track it down.

    Jonny
     
  4. Abomination
    Joined: Oct 5, 2006
    Posts: 6,702

    Abomination
    Member

    My first thought. :)

    ~Jason

     

  5. buckeye_01
    Joined: Jun 20, 2005
    Posts: 1,441

    buckeye_01
    Member

    One thing stands out in your post. The heads were recently freshened. Did this include new valve springs? What are the specs on them? New used? I can buy the vacuum advance, but in my mind I would be looking at the valve springs.
     
  6. Big_John
    Joined: Mar 28, 2006
    Posts: 333

    Big_John
    Member
    from Upstate NY

    The harmonic balancer outer ring may have slipped. Its getting to be pretty common as these engines get a little age on them.

    The balancer is two pieces, an inner hub and an outer ring. The ring slips on the hub and the timing mark ends up being off.

    Try moving the distributor around until it runs best and see if your problem gets any better. Then find TDC with a piston stop and check the mark. If its off, toss it and buy a new one.
     
  7. 50dodge4x4
    Joined: Aug 7, 2004
    Posts: 3,535

    50dodge4x4
    Member

    So is the carb opening all the way when the throttle is floored? Been there, done that. If your limiting your rpm to around 2500, I'd suspect your not opening the carb fully.
    Also, I'd think an Edelbrock 600 cfm carb is a bit small for a 413, Ive used them on a basically stock 318 before.
    Also, try bumping your timing up a bit, see if that helps. Gene
     
  8. 73RR
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 6,661

    73RR
    Member


    If the engine sounds like it is under load, then it probably is. If the car is trying to move then it is in gear.
    Figure out where nuetral is and then go through the motions.
     

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