Projects Modified Lakester Build (THUNDERCASKET)

These are the 32" tires I would like to run (direct replacement for the rollers I have):
https://www.cokertire.com/sta-super-traxion.html

Or there's a smaller one, 650-16, with a different pattern:

Which I may go to if I run small dirt trackers up front instead of the tall winter tires I've got. I see a lot of RR's running the Jeep tires, which, while they would probably be cheaper and move me good enough on dirt and sand, might attach a stigma to the build as well as not grab as well as the Traxions.

 

I'm going to continue to rattle on here. It helps keep me on track to write this stuff down.

I ended up ordering repop/aftermarket spindles because they will be here tomorrow and I won't need to do any cleanup to them to get things moving along. I way actually run originals, but as of right now I'll at least be able to put the front end together with the wide 5's finally. I'm hoping to get the front end locked in, the rear end bells flipped, sprung, wheeled, & mounted this weekend.

If I get that far with enough time to spare, get the pumps back on the block and bolt on some mounts and a radiator with the boxing plates clamped in and dial the mount location in. Then I can put the bell and trans on, Cut the frame, and wheel the rear up to meet the transmission and get my frame shortening figured out. That may be this weekend too but more likely next.

Now, STEERING?

I have the stock Model A box & 2 40/41 cross steer boxes. I'd prefer side steer on this car and I have tentative plans for the 40 boxes. However, I'd rather have upgraded steering. F1/F100 boxes have eluded me for the most part. SO, QUESTION TIME: What about 50's Chevy or GMC steering boxes? Some of them look like they might work.

Right now I'm eyeing a 47-53 Chevy / GMC Truck steering box because it looks like it might work and has a potentially low profile. Appears to be meant to sit on top of a frame rail. Has anyone used one of these on an AV8?:

 

That is the steering box I will be running on my model A truck, mine is going to be Stovebolt 6 powered. (261 C.I.D.)

I can dumby it up this weekend and send you some photos.

This steering box was used a lot in outlaw (non N.A.S.C.A.R.) stock cars in the 50's

 

This is a car that ran Mid State Speedway in Morris N.Y.

Note steering box-



Another Midstate car note steering box-

 

Damn if that thing don't say I AM A STEERING BOX!

I'd like to know what it takes to break one!

 

Anybody have any input on the later 50's truck boxes? Like a 58 Viking steering box perhaps?

 

If it works, run it!

Looks good.

 

Unfortunately I'd have to buy it first just to find out unless someone has experience with these to share.

 

Their was a Rod & Custom Tech. article about them a few years ago.

I can't remember the year or month, I have it some where.

 

Dec 2012 I do not have a scanner

 

Crappy cell pic?

I'll hit eBay, I do not think I had an active subscription to R&C at that point.

EDIT: Found a lot of 13 issues for the price of like, two, so I bought them.

 

This is the cover-


I can have someone scan it Monday a work.

 

I only own a cell phone because there aren't payphones anymore.

I am a 6 volt guy living in a 12 volt world!

 

I had a pager. I can relate.

 

That's awesome.

I wish I could live with out mine again, but I'm so addicted to The HAMB, that I check when I wake up, before I go to bed and when doing household chores/honey-do list.

And the only whey that is possible is by smart phone. Except for Coffee and old cars I have no addictions, so I have to feed them I got lol

I'm going to a car get-together later today, om planing on taking a lot of pictures.
And maybe upload for you all.

But that was all OT, do you have a steering box? Are the vikings cheap and avalible?

 

I'll take my smartphone over sitting at a desktop all day any day.

Ive got a Model A box, 2 40 cross steer boxes, and an unidentified Saginaw box that looks early 20s era to me.

Yeah all these GM boxes are under $200 delivered.

 

Hey patmanta, just checking in on your project. How's it going? I put new pictures on my link if you'd like to see them? Keep on Truckin'

 

Took Monday off so I can have 2 3-day weekends in a row on the project. Got a lot done but ran out of daylight and steam yesterday so next weekend will be mocking up the engine mounts and cutting the frame. I got just about everything else handled.
I got the boxing plates in and found they will need to be shortened, which I didn't do this weekend. I called 504 (the guys that make them) and they were very helpful with answering my questions about how they are intended to fit and confirmed that they are indeed left a little long on purpose.

Here's the photodump from this weekends' labor:

 

I like this a lot, that's an major progress report!

What's the plan for locating rear axle? X member, k member or hairpins?

Looks good with them boxing plates.
Did you came to a conclusion about you steering box issue?

Did you test fit rear axle placement with flathead and gearbox?

Nice work.

 

Thanks!

Locating the rear? The Torque tube will do that, I just don't have the bones on it because I was running out of daylight and it wasn't critical for rolling it back into the shop. I think I'm going to have to relocate the tab on the tube though.

As for center crossmembers, I'm not sure what I'm doing yet. I may make a poor man's F1 crossmember out of some angle iron or plate and the stock A crossmember if I can't find one. I've got both a F1 and a 32 style pedal bracket, so an X member is an option too. That piece of box tube is just welded to the frame to keep it from going wild when I cut.

Steering box is still up in the air. F1's seem to have skyrocketed in price all of the sudden. This has been a recurring theme with my parts needs. I ordered the R&C mag that @Robert J. Palmer mentioned so I can have the article on notaford boxes in print by the toilet.

I did not get to test fitting the engine and transmission. It was just way too much to get done Monday afternoon with the shadows creeping towards the house. I quit for the day with just enough time to clean up and play with my dog before dark as it was. I did take some more sanity check measurements though and I'm still coming up with between 7" and 8" of shortening to be done. For kicks I may just go re-measure that other torque tube I've got because I know some of them (33/34) were actually around 7" longer than the cut one I've got, which would totally complicate my plan and give me more to overthink about. Anybody know how long 47 Merc torque tubes are?

 

I had one of the 47-1st series 55 truck steering boxes less steering shaft (the guy robbed it for a fork lift, than scraped the fork lift.)
I got the 2nd one complete for $100.oo

Of course I bought an F-1 box for $10.00 last year, already sold!

 

Looking good!

 

Okay, I meant if you would run stock bones attatched to the TT.
Or split bones to frame and a K member, or ladderbars to an X.

But you explained it well, in your last post.

I like it a lot.
What trans are you running? 393 speed.

 

@volvobrynk Thanks! Yes, 39 3 speed transmission; I gave up on the LaSalle a while back and went the all Ford TT route to simplify this build. I may use one of the LaSalles on another build some day or just sell them.

@Robert J. Palmer $10?!?! Man, I've had luck like that on things before, but not on something that I NEEDED! I'm hoping something falls into my lap soon, otherwise I may go with the 2-tooth or start considering cross-steer

 

So I read that R&C article last night. Not much for useful tech. Most of it was talking about filler and paint

BUT, I went ahead and bought a Saginaw box off ePay for less than a hundred bucks to my door. It's a 38-46 Chevy/GMC truck box (or was at least described as such). More importantly, it appears to be the one that's essentially an improved knockoff of the Gemmer F1 box (or actually, perhaps the superior original?) from what I understand. I'm fairly certain they are close to the same size at least.



Looks like I'll be saving my cross steer boxes for something else!

 

Sorry the R&C article wasn't more help.

 

Naw man, it pointed me in the right direction a bit. I think I'm just used to more in depth information from reading the HAMB so much!

Hopefully today once I get moving I'll be able to get the block location in the frame sorted out so I can cut frame by Monday.

 

SO CLOSE!

 

First cut! Placed it 7.5" ahead of the rear crossmember for a variety of reasons. First off I needed the portaband to clear the crossmember. This also gives me more meat to work with as far as contact with the frame.

 

Looking like I can add more drop comfortably. Tires on the front are as big as I'll ever run and therears are smaller. Going to put tje 32, s on before I weld.