My project is very cramped, and there aim much wikle room. I need to build something like this Because I have such a tight engine bay, and I got to modify everything, and still has to keep within the tight bounderys of the Danish regulations. The SD1 cast iron double rear dump manifold is good, but too wide for my use But I most confess that I like your build, and I can only applaud you use of engine, but a Rover is all Alu V8 2.0 to the beta version you got But I love the intake you got, and I found a weber intake for 2 triple webers, and a intake with 4 double webers, that rock my boat. And one like yours, but there can't be many around.
The headers I have are 25" outside to outside and are symmetrical on each side. The cast Land Rover headers are 26" wide but are not symmetrical. The right side header stick out a tad bit more than the left and the flange is up a bit higher. Edit- Have you considered running the outlets out the front side of the engine? And old fella I know has a turbo set up on a Olds 215 and he aimed the stock Olds manifolds forward and connected them. Worked real nice. I also do not have much room. With the clutch, steering and wishbone I'm just barely clearing it all. I want to run hood sides so it's a tight fit. I have three other engines and a pile of parts. Late on I will build a stroker using a Rover block. I just need to wait for more of them get sold for parts. I'd love to see those Weber manifolds too!!!! I think this one came off a Defender. It was listed as a Stromberg Carb, but it's just a plain old S.U. Not sure when I will use it, but I had to have one.
Sorry for the thread jacking, but I value your info! I go and measure my engine bay, next time I'm at the shop. I should look ind to those LR headers. I reckon that I have a very small amount of space under those exhaust manifold and down to my very large front crossmember. I got a framdless car, with IFS like between a 1940 Chevy and a tri-five Chevy. And I can't cut the fenders out and run fenderwell headers. I will look in to the possibility of running two left side manifolds on my car. And those Stromberg variable venturies is a good carb. But they are not a SU. They are the 2.0 upgrade over the beta testing that the SU is. The run good and strong, but if you want more "umph", they will give you a small and limited adjustment between slight excess of fuel or major over the top rich. And as well as they work performance wise, they are not as adjustable as a 4barrel properly tuned. But for a stock set up they are very versetail. That set up came in cars and LR except FI vanden plas and some TVRs. Not only the land rover. Land rover is between 90-120hp. Cars is between 120-200hp depending on the cam. Are you gonna run 3 pedal? I like it even more now!
I don't care if you post. I don't get to chat with many other 215 people and the info is REAL hard to find. We gotta stick together and help each other out I'm running a Borg Warner T5 from a Chevy Camaro with an S-10 tailshaft (not traditional but it's a tough engine to find a manual trans). V6 Chevy S-10 clutch that I had to have adapted to the stock flywheel. It's all hooked up using a Chevy Vega clutch cable and modified Ford F1 truck pedals.
Hey good to know Yhe BW bellhousing is good too build you own adapter, just a flat plate boltet in plases og the gearbox, and then mascine to any gearbox with a removeable bellhousing Im planning to run an Volvo/Getrag HD 4 speed I have from behind a V6 '76 Volvo 264. Does manifolds swap side to side? Your manifols splits right below the head gasket? and the rest in the video is a downpipe with flexpipe in it? There is some info to be had along with parts from Rimmer brothers and Britishv8.org They have a lot and share. Do you plan to hop it up? and do you have both Buick and Rover? http://onywedagyk.netai.net/rover-v8-35-parts.php
The pics I posted with the cast iron exhaust manifolds are a spare block I use for mock up. Just to show you what the Rover manifolds look like. The headers with the flex joints are the ones I'm running. The exhaust manifolds will swap to each side. Buick, Olds and Rover all shared the same exhaust manifold bolt pattern too. So they can all be used. The Buick and Rover heads look more like a Nailhead though. The intake manifolds are also interchangeable. Not sure how your set up is, but the front side of the oil pan offers a bit of clearance if you had them exit out the front. The pics of the engine bay look about like mine. So room! I have three Olds engines and one Buick right now. I plan to run the engine I got going for a while, while I build a second engine that's hopped up. As you know, they are very expensive to rebuild. That 2-2 intake you posted is an Offy intake that is still being produced. The rest of those are pretty rare.
Those pics is from my photo collection, and non of them is mine. But I wish they where! I contacted the firm that build those headers, to get the same measurements, an iirc they are 25" inch when on the mill. This is the car as build, and two of them is from when it was a gasser: http://s200.photobucket.com/user/volvobrynk/library/amazing amazon 1 And this is as found: http://s200.photobucket.com/user/volvobrynk/library/amazing amazon 2 So a lot has changed. But that engine compartment is tight, that front crossmember intrudes in the pan and the brake is for single circuit, I plan on run dual circuit. And this is an empty bay: The rover heads is an improved head compared to yours, better flow, better valve train and SD1 got better chamber size/shape.
So much has been happening as usual. We started our move to our new property and my future shop space. I have had to sell off, give away and throw away lots of stuff. Another month and I will be out of Minneapolis and into the valley of Southeast Minnesota. The first time I will have a shop and place to live within walking distance. I picked up a second spring pack from Titus a while back. I needed to add a little bit of height in the back. I had the springs and the rear wishbone blasted and painted it all. I still need to get some cash to get the brake parts bearings and seals for the rear end. I did get my flywheel ground finally. I got all the clutch and tarns stuff done and assembled it all this evening. It turned into more of a job than I expected, but everything is bolted in now. I'm hoping to get things rolling before I move. There's still a large list of things to do and parts to buy. The lady and I. She's still remained with me through all this and is usally with me at the shop 90% of the time. Offy covers are installed now. Our new place in the hills. My new home....err... shop! Heat, 220v and storage in the attic with a stairway to it!
I have been gathering rear brake parts, bearings and seals to wrap up the rear axle. I'm still trying to track down some e-brake arms for the rear drums. I have been cleaning and painting parts in the meantime. I had a tiny alternator off a Chevy Sprint engine I have for my mini. I don't have any room left for a generator, otherwise I would run that. Using parts I had at the shop and a little drilling I was able to tuck the little fella right in. I went through the box of belts we have at the shop and found a size that worked perfect.
I finally got around to the shock mounts. I wanted something a little different, but still simple. I used the bottom mount from a Ford F1 shock mount, a section from a headlight bar and a spacer. I had a buddy tig and braze the pieces together for me. How does the headlight location look? Opinions are welcome and wanted. Thanks.
Okay, side view and dead ahead is gorgeous! But this one down low, with steelies, small moon, hood, 32 shell, headlamp and Baby nail head, I don't know if I'm turn on or in love! Only thing that would make it better is a little nerf bar/headlight bar that goes between the shock mounts. That would be a good protecter of the grill insert in general, and look very old school. Just my two cents. And patiently waiting for more pics, Where is the one with the body on, and you in the driving position make engine noises?
I have a piece of stainless to maybe use for a headlight bar. Not sure if I want to go that direction yet. I think I'm gonna move the lights in just a tad. When I mocked them up last year I noticed I had the lights in a bit more. I'm still trying to get the rear e-brake levers for the rear brakes and then I can get the rear axle done. After that, I gotta run brake lines. One the gas tank is sealed up and a line ran, it should be a running, driving chassis!
Hopefully, the last time I need to check some clearances and finish up the body. Crossing my fingers, but I might have the body work and primer on before I move. If I can get some e-brake arm I can run my brakes. Seal up the gas tank and it will be running and stopping! Just a little steering work. Getting closer...but that's what I said two years ago!
Well, you have done a fine job on that little ride you are cooking up! She looks first rate. When are you closding on the new place? We are all dying to hear more about it.
With the ingredients you're kickin' into this build ... it's really hard to not follow. Big fan of that 300lb engine and its 3 pedals man. BAdASS.
Once I get the 16x5.5 tires on the front, it should drop the front to where I want it. It's still a bit leveled off right now. I broke down and ordered new e-brake arms so it will be dangerously close to being able to drive it on to a trailer for the move. We move in three weeks. We are lucky enough to pretty much just pay property tax, utilities and upkeep on the property while we live there. It's owned by my lady's Mother who doesn't want it anymore. The two car garage is a full leather shop. Her Mother made saddles and leather goods, so we get that in the deal as well. Time for me to learn how to tool leather! I have never had anything given to me in my life so it seems weird to fall into such an ideal spot. We'll see where it goes.
I don't know if anyone will be able to see this, but here's a video my lady shot tonight. Iy's on the Facebook world. We decided to give it a run to see how it sounded with the rest of the exhaust. It got louder, and meaner. https://www.facebook.com/alisha.bal...213577212/?type=2&theater¬if_t=like_tagged
Glad it worked! I can't figure out how to download off FB and my lady hasn't figured out how to email the vids to me...I hate technology. Here's a vid from the front angle. It got all choppy and the sound is off, but it's there. I'm very happy with the sound out of this little engine. https://www.facebook.com/alisha.balzer.1/videos/10100677162424722/?pnref=story
@Beau Just did a quick scroll through on your build. I really like where it is going. On a quick note on something you said to @volvobrynk , over the years I have seen quite a few old cars with the exhaust turned around backward and the head pipes run down and under the engine bat from the front to avoid clearance issues. Maybe it sounds a little backyard but it is an option that has been done and works.
Thanks @porknbeaner ! There are a lot of photos of junk and mock up stuff, and most of the photos are crappy, but I have learned a lot and almost have a car I can drive. My goal is to have it finished finished by August so I can make the Minneapolis Messaround car show. Time and money...
The Jalopy Journal
