The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Beau, Feb 1, 2012.
Don't forget to tip that front crossmember back down an equal amount.
Yup. I have been, tomorrow is part 2. Thanks again for the pictures you posted. It has been a huge help. I promise I'm not building a copy of yours!
I did my slice a few inches further back than you. I'm gonna try and hide the bend under the cowl since I have to do work to it anyway.
Hey, I'm not worried about what you do on your build. I'm glad if any of the stuff I did has been useful for others doing similar builds. I learned so much from here when I was doing mine. That's what it's about.
I think I have found what I want to use for the rear suspension. After hours of searching this site and others, I found a combo that I think looks good.
Information on using 1935 or 1936 rear bones modified to be a wishbone/ladder bar set up. These threads had info and pictures that help.
Voodoo Twin's rear set-up is pictured below.
And a member, Pinewood sells these nice little brackets to make hanging them easier.
Other axle info, Front-
I finished the sweep tonight. It's tacked in anyway. I ended up having to cut the passenger side one more time to get things squared up, but it's all level and straight now. The cowl and the main cut are exactly in line.
It's hard to tell in this crappy pic, but it's a tad lower. Look up a few posts and you'll see the small difference.
I only have small amounts of time to work on it but I'm doing all I can.
I'm waiting on spindles and brake stuff so I can install the drop axle. Motor/trans mounts next.
Picked up a set of 35/36 bones today.
My friend also picked up a set and an old aftermarket, bolt-on tube shock mount. They are real neat looking.
I love those old Fordson tanks. I've found about 4-5 of them myself....all still attached to tractors and with holes in the bottom. ....They do reproduce them. I can dig up the link if you want.....but they are pricey new. Cool build, I like your direction so far.
I saw the reproductions. They dont have the "Fordson" stuff stamped on the sides though, and I think they were close to $450. I picked this up for $150. I need to split it to clean the inside out. The baffle is loose as well (common problem). They say there were 400,000 of them in the US and tanks are plentiful, but I feel fortunate to have one.
I have an English Fordson tank on my Modified. It's a TVO tank so it has a second filler cap for a small tank used to contain petrol for starting the engine. I'm using mine as a reserve tank.
Sludging up seems to have been a problem and they usually had the end caps cut out so they couls be cleaned out and then gas welded back on. Mine has had this done but then doesn't seem to have been used afterwards.
I've fitted a mechanical fuel gauge from a Cessna Bird Dog wing tank in one end of mine. The whole thing is supported off the rear cross member on struts made from DC3 airframe clevis joints.
Got the mod. out for a pic. the other day. I don't know if I mentioned this before but when I did mine I mounted the seats first in a position where I had plenty of leg room and then built the back section around them, previously I didn't do that and it ended up cramped for room.
Doodlrodz- I took your advice on this. The Model T rear panel I bought had the stock seatbase and subframe still in it. I was able to get them set up and clamped the steering in. I thnk I have the measurment set now. Your Mod is looking great! Thanks for posting the picture!
I didn't know they didn't have the stamping.....that's not cool.
I agree you are fortunate to have one. I hope to find a usable original someday now that I know the reproductions don't have stamping on the sides.
Had a couple hours after work.
The cross member will need some work.
I pulled the side of the doors out and clamped them on to the T body.
Spare door skin for blending the beltline
Dan is the fella in this picture. He did a rendering of my build that I will post later on.
Beau, I'm doing a t modified in south st Paul. Where are you at? Keep up the good work- looks like it's shaping up nicely!
I live in Minneapolis. Off 35w and crosstown 62.
PM me and we should get together. It's always nice to know the locals.
One of the guys in the club, Dan, did this rendering the other day. Heshowed up at the garage after that last mock up with the drawing. It was VERY close to what I had in my head and what I had already done. Minus the bigs/littles, radius rods and tank, it's real close to what I want.
Looks like we are doin kinda the same , except mine will be a pick-up. All I had was the durant cowl
Im diggin it. That renedering is dead on.man.
wicked cool. i tried to do a drawing of what i wanted mine to look like to keep in my wallet as some kind of reminder to save... until someone said "Oh does your little boy like to draw cars?"
looking forward to more progress, keep the pics coming!
Two steps forward, one step back.
When I bought the Fordson tank it had a large dent in the bottom. The tank had been used on an old generator that was powered by a flathead. The PO hammered the bottom of the tank in to clear the air cleaner. I figured the dent was fairly large and decided to use air pressure to blow the dent out. A made a rigged up valve to relieve pressure and applied numerous cycles of air pressure.
The dent popped out, but when I was done it had distorted the whole damn tank . The air pressure "blew up" the tank like a ballon, in turn buckling the sides a bit.
Today I cut one end off with a jig saw and began hammering dents out. I used a bottle jack to stratch the sides out a bit, and I made things 10 times worse. I think the best way to straighten out the bottom section is to cut the area out and rework it, then weld it back together. This will also give me a chance to clean up the rust scale, and weld the baffles back in.
I have also been looking at the tank more and more and I'm starting to think that making it a tad bit narrower and mounting it verticall or at a diagonal might not be a bad idea. I'd like it to look a bit smaller. I guess I could just trim off the bad section and seal it back it.
Oh well. I started this project so I could refine my metal working skills. What a pain!
If you have any other tips for me please let me know. I'd like to keep the cuts to a minimum.
Following your build....I have a 30 cowl and doors, someone cut off my windshield posts, I am reinstalling them along with a stock closed car frame. I am using 30 closed car doors cut down and the rear part of the tub uses 31 b pillars and the rear skin from a 30 Tudor sedan. I am mocking it all up now and was interested in what you will be doing for windshield. I kinda like the square upright style of the original windscreen. A swoops Duvall style wouldn't do it for me......personal choice!
I have a '28-'29 Model A front end (cowl and doors with frames cut off) that I was thinking about building into a modified much like RoyalShifter's T in the first post. Dan's drawing reminds me a lot of mine with the exception of the body styles. I played around with the body lines and accidentally drew an oversized gas cap.
I really like how yours is turning out. I'll be watching this one.
Nice work! I really like that!
I changed to a 1930 cowl/hood/doors. I can't change the title on the post though.
I had a little time today to brace the cowl and the rear panel together. Everything lines up pretty good.
I also raised the engine up a bit. I set it on top of the crossmember. I think I can rework the stock crossmember to work just fine. The engine needs to move back about 3 inches and down a couple.
One quick one.
I trimmed the hood sides and the radiator shell to match the sweep.
I also removed the dash and trimmed the crosspiece on the cowl out. Now the dash sits flat against the other cowl piece. It's hard to tell in the picture I guess.
I just ran into Tin Man's scratch built A. This is the best example I have found for what I'm shooting towards building.
That hood mod looks great!
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