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Projects modern greenhorn’s ‘28 Coupe build

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by manitouguy, Aug 11, 2019.

  1. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 2,337


    id fix it
    loudbang likes this.
  2. manitouguy
    Joined: Jul 28, 2019
    Posts: 48


    @nunattax thanks - that’s what I’m up to

    a bit of light sanding and a quick coat primer - looks sooo much better as a healthy rim again - will work more on the trim bands and in future color coord the wheel to a final car color


    still more fiddling and see what I will / can do with the pitted chrome ring and centre plastic - currently in a tub of paint thinner -

    I may ‘mix and match with another wheel like the merc to the left ... it has far less cracking or damage and is next in line to restore


    it’s chrome ring is much nicer and fits into the ‘46 wheel interestingly too -


    or I might try without any horn ring at all - we will see - any opinions welcome :)


    lots of learning and considering continues in the background for the full build - more to come - cheers
    sko_ford, loudbang and Tim like this.
  3. manitouguy
    Joined: Jul 28, 2019
    Posts: 48


    Ok ... I know ... this is not a steering wheel thread - working slowly on planning for the real efforts and trying to meet and connect with good guys in the area for advice and assistance in finding some parts to rebuild my ‘28 as ‘traditionally’ as I can

    if any of you are in the Vancouver / Maple Ridge BC areas and are willing to reach out with a bit of guidance or some spare parts for sale please do - I’d love to meet more of you in the community

    back to the first wheel restoration - the ‘46 super deluxe center button was too far gone to restore ‘as new’ so for now I’ve primered it like the wheel - to maybe receive paint as main body color or trim down the road


    the pitted chrome ring is growing on me but I’ve been told there is a shop in area that can clean that up - will give them a call

    now to get on to the ‘49 Mercury Meteor wheel and this week likely start my gas tank restore, gauges rebuild and maybe work some on the coupe doors - more of the ‘little’ or secondary ‘to-dos’ as I sort out chassis and body major efforts
    loudbang likes this.
  4. manitouguy
    Joined: Jul 28, 2019
    Posts: 48


    Wow - six months since I was fiddling with my steering wheels

    just adding an entry to keep some momentum up and to track my build albeit it is still pretty slow

    I have befriended a chap here who has been incredibly helpful teaching me and helping me with some parts and advice for my traditional build

    I have picked up a tardel 32 k member, F1 shock mounts and F1 column, an original 30 coupe seat with adjustable slider (didn’t know if it would fit in my 28 coupe but as you can see from the pictures I was very happy to find that it did ) a 39 shifter and so far on two attempts 39 tower tops but as of yet not the right larger shifter fork inside - and some other bits

    also picked up some beanie or Baldy ‘type hubs’ - i’ve never come across originals and if I did I am pretty sure they would be quite pricey – I don’t know what these are but for now they look cool and I got lucky in that they have the same outside diameter as Ford hubs and sit right over top of The ford caps – I am thinking of cutting the bottom flange off those caps and mounting these to them for now - The guy I pick them up off of said they are very old and came off of his 50s dodge trailer - Nice thick steel and chromed too

    hopefully getting some nicer replacement original doors as all though mine are not too bad - someone over the years did a pretty large lap weld along the bottoms and welded the top rails on too – so I will try and improve on that

    have removed many of the items off of the frame and then some inventory on where minimal bodywork will be needed - inner wheel wells and bottom edge rear quarters - and although likely not necessary – I am going to try and get all of the sub rails at front and back replaced or repaired better

    keeping at it ‘behind the scenes’ :) and enjoying every minute of it and all of the learning that goes along with

    here are some pictures – as always any comments and opinions welcome please and thanks

    hfh, Cliff Ramsdell, Tim and 4 others like this.
  5. manitouguy
    Joined: Jul 28, 2019
    Posts: 48


    Another minor update - still collecting parts behind the scenes

    finally found a proper larger shifter fork after opening up three ‘39 top loaders only to find ground out forks

    picked up body blocks and a top wood kit (still need the front wood header - it was missing)

    also got the front metal header and an original top window hinge in better shape than mine (someone had chopped mine to put a larger wiper motor in)

    decided to go back and re-evaluate my doors - I was considering finding replacements as mine had lap weld bottom patches and a boat load of as yet unworked bondo - the doors are really solid so I took it as an opportunity to learn a bit about blocking and bodywork - spent some time starting to sand down / remove the excessive filler - I think I can get them very nice with a bit of guidance and lots of elbow grease and patience

    There are two large indents in driver door belt line - will need to pull those out and lead or fill

    also need to grind / break a couple of welds on door top rail and then drill recap for proper fastening from tops again

    planning on disassembling the whole body to work on all the panels - and put on new subrails properly - will also allow me to investigate the chassis and begin all the work needed to get it and running gear corrected / changed to the way I want it

    baby steps ... but steps all the same :)







  6. loudbang
    Joined: Jul 23, 2013
    Posts: 30,451


    with that much to sand in the center of the door you should probably invest in a "Long board" (google them) and watch some youtubes on the best way to use them.
    kadillackid likes this.
  7. manitouguy
    Joined: Jul 28, 2019
    Posts: 48



    thanks loudbang - and yes I am looking into dura-block products - was thinking of going with their 24” block - not sure if I need a longer one - but proving a bit challenging finding anyone who carries the long strips of sandpaper to go with locally
    loudbang and kadillackid like this.
  8. Aaron D.
    Joined: Oct 27, 2015
    Posts: 818

    Aaron D.

    Bought my long block and rolls of paper on Amazon.
    loudbang and manitouguy like this.
  9. manitouguy
    Joined: Jul 28, 2019
    Posts: 48


    @Aaron D. - thanks Aaron – I will look that up - I wish I could make progress like you – your threads and videos were so inspiring and are excellent and very helpful by the way I keep going back to them over and over

    so much to learn – but I will get there eventually :)
    Aaron D. and loudbang like this.
  10. Bugguts
    Joined: Aug 13, 2011
    Posts: 670


    Enjoying the updates.
    Just like eating an elephant, little bites will get it done.
    loudbang and manitouguy like this.
  11. Mat Thrasher
    Joined: Nov 5, 2007
    Posts: 1,156

    Mat Thrasher

    My advice on the doors would be to just reskin them. I would get rid of that lap weld and all that mud.

    Also, on the dents in the beltline. I just had to get out a pretty good crease out of my drivers door. If you can get a dollie behind it. You can pull it right up.

    Avatar1589943908.460484.jpg IMG_8466.JPG

    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
    waxhead, loudbang and manitouguy like this.
  12. Aaron D.
    Joined: Oct 27, 2015
    Posts: 818

    Aaron D.

    Thanks Man, I appreciate the kind comment.
    greaser and loudbang like this.
  13. manitouguy
    Joined: Jul 28, 2019
    Posts: 48


    Ok - a bit more progress AND an exciting dilemma I need some opinions on

    slowly dismantling my coupe to right some wrongs - every nut, bolt or fastener is a battle to remove!

    took forever to simply get my trunk deck off - but success, and when I did I realized that two curious dings on its top edge were from ... previous owner using a 30’ 31’ top gutter rail and crap metal screws instead of the ‘28 ‘29 proper rail and fasteners

    I also realized he had used an inner lower trunk insert for a rumble set up - my ‘go to’ parts buddy had the proper lower insert (but I believe I am missing a top right angle inner trim) so I’m figuring how that goes in correctly

    and although my front cowl setup was pretty solid - as with the rest of the car, the sub rails are a mess - or what’s left of them and the front bracket brace pairs ... so I also picked up a beautiful original and complete cowl assembly to swap in

    We set aside a ‘27 t rear spring to help lower my car - he said can help drop rear by 3-4”, And another f1 box to compare w the one I have

    so bit by bit :)

    and as for the ‘exciting dilemma’ - locally a Facebook ad post offered up a ‘49? ‘51? Flathead - possibly Mercury? And it’s bits and pieces - Earlier in this thread I believe I had shown the clean ‘34 engine I had intended to use - which I love the look of and the fact it’s not like ‘every other’ flathead (aka maybe a bit less common) ... but now I am torn ... which should I go with?!? Unique early look or more evolved / improved design, with more hp and speed part options? And along w that ... stay w ‘39 top load and closed torque tube, or the later side load trans and open drive shaft? Thoughts and opinions please!?

    4623DF39-353A-4BEF-ADB4-AF1B78C063ED.jpeg 593B6A4F-B00F-4681-8DDE-0A7804B4F04C.jpeg 03E3AD27-061A-48D5-8140-A0443589F657.jpeg 58C296F9-BFD1-43E6-B6C3-43DAF35F11E7.jpeg C5978325-0A6E-4057-852D-83685C8B1AA3.jpeg 11D32E1D-7D46-48A3-B104-D39BBE736882.jpeg 4BDCEB5D-BE81-42B0-AB64-62EDBCC1DCF4.jpeg 37B3B7CA-3C65-4CBD-A64D-9F0E7D3DD33E.jpeg E7FD57F6-9275-4F40-9D1E-10DA93776F1C.jpeg 89DA6237-73A8-4510-99F5-104A5A937272.jpeg D0EBEA80-9CAB-419F-9D07-BAC345B666B1.jpeg B6CAA149-60D2-4A14-AA3C-86BD01FD55DA.jpeg
    Last edited: Jul 19, 2020
    waxhead, Aaron D. and Hotrodmyk like this.
  14. manitouguy
    Joined: Jul 28, 2019
    Posts: 48


    Working through some more stuff today - was trying to sort out if a Borg Warner overdrive will mate to the 8cm if I go that route?

    would like to use the gears from the grey trans - very clean - and put them in the red case w overdrive? But not sure yet if I can do a straight swap and everything will play nice – any comments or advice welcomed as usual! Not sure what the Id is of either and if they are interchangeable ?

    68986C74-3045-4D50-80C1-C22016DC1349.jpeg 2FED0B3D-1E92-4B34-8E2A-70EDA01CD273.jpeg DC5682A5-B896-4069-908C-A854C664F813.jpeg B39E4453-292B-40DB-8ED3-FBFC8E457AAA.jpeg

    Here is the overdrive and the two side by side




    my buddy also passed me a nice vintage pair of aluminum headlight mounts :)! - I spent a few minutes on one to see how nice they will look when polished properly -


    rusty valley likes this.

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