Model T with Dizzy issues

Alright, now I'm pulling my hair out. I am working on a T for a customer and it has been converted with a "Texas T" distributor drive which uses the vw distributor head. This one had a pertronix ignitor which took a dump so we decided to install a new reman distributor ($30 less than new ignitor). Got it all together and it sparked great. Went to fire the car and no go. Went through timing it again still nothing. Now I check it and have no spark. I have power to the coil, down to the point block but when operating the points no spark. Could the brand new condenser have blown already and not allow the flow of electricity? How do you test a condenser?

 

Thorough and proper test is hard, and should be done with the thing hot...
Easy way...remove it and do a simple continuity test* from wire terminal to case...this only tests one aspect, and that not very thoroughly, but continuity there would account for your trouble, and obviously your prob is not heat related.
Next, though condensers vary considerably in electrical spec, any functional car one you have will do the job of firing the engine up if condenser was your problem. So just grab the condenser from anything you have that works and cobble it into place, see if the thing fires.

*Meter or just lightbulb

 

Another test for a condenser, but you have to have a battery-powered old style sweep-hand meter (Simpson 260), is to check continuity as above, but look for the needle to deflect a bit before coming down to zero. Both directions.

Some things you just can't do with modern technology...

Cosmo

 

I tested it along side one of my NOS Ford made condensers and it worked, not as well but it worked. Found 2 major problems in the entire electrical system. The engine was not grounded well to the frame, meaning running continuity from the head bolts to frame rails yielded nothing, and the main hot terminal on the original firewall mounted junction block was loosened enough to allow power to show but not flow enough amperage to run a damn thing. So its running now, thanks for the input guys.

 

On old car grounds, think overkill...you can ground gen and dist case, run them to link up with actual battery strap.
The classic condenser test: take the female end off of an extension cord, use the leads, one to pigtail, other to case to charge the condenser. verydamncarefully set the thing on workbench. Say something like "Chuck, I forgot the condenser... could you hand it to me while I hold this clip?"
A blood-curdling scream is good news about the condenser.
Do not try this with your wife.
She has already memorized the statutes relating to justifiable homicide.

 

Hahaha that's a good test idea Bruce. Usually I ground the hell out of batteries but this one was previously worked on at one of my competitors who has almost blatantly stated that they do better work, obviously not. The starter would turn like it had a dead battery and now it spins like a Volkswagen.