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Hot Rods Model B Motor - Water In Oil

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by A BONED, Aug 4, 2015.

  1. A BONED
    Joined: May 9, 2008
    Posts: 325

    A BONED
    Member

    Hi fellas,
    I've also put this post up on Ford Barn, so I apologize if you guys are seeing this again.

    I have a 32 model B motor that was rebuilt around a year ago, with 0.100' over pistons, Winfield 'R' camshaft, original Winfield 6:1 head, a 2x2 intake with 2 Stromberg 97's, and a rebuilt 30's Mallory distributor.

    I have water in the oil, the oil is grey in colour. I have replaced the head gasket 4 times now with no success so far. I've pulled the head off again tonight and noticed that there are stains in cylinder number 4, the other three still look good. I could not see a crack in the cylinder wall, but maybe there is one there...? I've also had water leaking past four head studs, and collecting on the head. Not much water, but it's there. I've prepared the head and deck surfaces properly each time, and installed the studs with sealer, and torqued them correctly.

    I'm really pulling my hair out here and need to find a permanent fix. When the motor has been run, she pulls nice with tons of power. Appreciate any assistance. I have included an image of number 4 cylinder. The motor is also running rich which can be seen by the carbon around each pot.
     

    Attached Files:

  2. treb11
    Joined: Jan 21, 2006
    Posts: 3,958

    treb11
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    might be time to have the block and head pressure tested.
     
  3. RichFox
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 10,020

    RichFox
    Member Emeritus

    did you check for flatness? Maybe your head needs surfacing.
     
  4. drtrcrV-8
    Joined: Jan 6, 2013
    Posts: 1,709

    drtrcrV-8
    Member

    X2 on pressure testing/checking for flatness(both head & block) If that doesn't find the leak, you might also consider pulling it all the way down, cleaning it thoroughly & magnaflux, zyglo, or dye-checking both the head & block thoroughly (your choice, depending on what's locally available, although you can do the dye-check yourself, as the kit & instructions for it should be available at your local welding supply store for under $50.)
     

  5. mtkawboy
    Joined: Feb 12, 2007
    Posts: 1,213

    mtkawboy
    Member

    They also had problems cracking from the valve seats to the cylinders. An antique engine builder in New Springfield Ohio once told me that any motor {Model A's} that didn't have the valve seats replaced when they were new will be cracked. People in cold weather areas boiled water on the stove & poured it into cold motors in the mornings. I magnafluxed 8 blocks before I found a good one for the A I built
     
  6. A BONED
    Joined: May 9, 2008
    Posts: 325

    A BONED
    Member

    Thanks for your post mtkawboy, now you've got me really worried. You found one good model A block from the 8 you tested, damn!

    Chris.
     
  7. ROADSTER1927
    Joined: Feb 14, 2009
    Posts: 3,144

    ROADSTER1927
    Member

    Your cylinders do not look to me like they had any water in them other wise they usually look much cleaner. Gary
     
  8. With that size overbore you may have uncovered some rust pitting in the water jacket. JW
     
  9. dan c
    Joined: Jan 30, 2012
    Posts: 2,524

    dan c
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    sealer on head studs?
     

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