Researching options for trans tunnel covers. Running a 32 frame,stock firewall and floor, th350 with a sbc. Would like to keep it as close to stock look as possible and have it removable. Anyone have pics or info to share about how much will need cut out etc?
I think first of all we need to see what you put together. Otherwise, it's all just Key Board chatter.
In the thread title it’s a 31A. Trying to keep it looking like it belongs there not just an add on, and understand different options to make the fit nice and not hacked up
My 31 coupe sits on a 32 frame rails , stock fire wall, stock front sub-rails and will run a SBC. I'm just finishing the custom floor panels now. You may not need a tunnel at all unless the body has some channel and/or your engine/trans sits a little higher. I'll be putting engine/trans in for final mock up pretty soon to check whether or not I need a hump. Right now I think I'm good to go. You have to mock everything up so you avoid problems later. If you do need something, check out Absolute Sheetmetal (Formerly Bitch 'n) they have tunnels and other pre-fabricated floor pieces that might help.
I’ll say if no floor in the A and the engine and transmission is mounted, put the body on it and see what you need to make/modify to get it right.
Thank you!! Exactly what I was needing to see and hear. I had hoped not to need to cut and keep it original. I’m in process of installing my new floor and my frame hasn’t shipped, just want to use the spare time studying so I’m ready to go and know what to expect for mock up Good luck on your build my friend and thanks again.
Maybe call the place doing the frame, get an idea of what they think with engine/transmission you’re going to use. Ie if they have the mounts installed , they should know what’s needed?
Your welcome. Just a small warning , I would not permanently install the floor until you mount the body on the frame and mock up the engine/trans. Things might change depending on if and/or where the all the mounts are welded. All the best!
I don't see where you advise to look at your Build Thread. Opening post reads like just an open question how to do something. I don't do Build threads, so the thought never crossed my mind, as shallow as it is. You really don't need to Hunt for any of my work, it's connected to every one of my Posts or Comments trying to help anyone here out, there's nearly 10K of them. I post photos of any advice I may hand out then a person can decide if My Work will help them at all. Take it for what it is.
Thanks, yep just a tack here and there to be able to set it down on the frame and then final weld once All is good
Model A's never had transmission tunnels. I can offer you a image of the tunnel I made for a '32 Ford pickup. HRP
Man. You're kinda a dick considering you don't even know how to build a transmission tunnel or understand how important having all your major components are to a build.
Talked with Builder about it was told maybe will need a nip and tuck to get it to fit. Trying to get ahead of the curve and see if anyone made or used a tunnel in a similar build and how it was installed. I haven’t seen a store bought version that I think looks good with the A floor design that looks like it may have belonged there. Most have been welded in as well so trying to keep it removeable for future trans needs
Thank you, exactly what I wanted to see. Like the design and actually looks like it could have been original to car. Think the square design works a little better than the cone shape jmo.
What I have seen of the many tunnels folded in a Brake with shoulders on top edges is the Carpet seldom fits well and wears fast on the fold mark. This is an early photo of my Channeled 30. I know you said you don't like this style but it's easy to build. I actually hand bucked it over a welding tank. Then cold shrank the end over the welding tank top cap. A couple rivnutz and 10/32 screws made it easy to remove when needed.
Nice sheetmetal work! Big fan of the handmade stuff. Actually this is the first of this style that suits my eye. It does look like it could be original sheetmetal. Thanks for the pic and info my friend!
In the above post I mentioned Cold Shrinking the end of the cover over a Tank Cap. I have been asked in the past just what that means. If you look at the open end towards the seat, the raised section just ends open. To cure that I sat the end on the Tank Cap and shrank it over it closing off the end and then using a buck hand carved to match the simi Balled end flattened the metal back to match floor level. There was no heat used or cuts made to get the Ball shape. Once the buck was clamped in place and I got to work getting the floor level flange back in place a little heat was used to help shrink it back flat. Again nothing was cut or welded there. I kind of like the way it turned out.
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