Model A roadster is a roller *updated 12/10/09*

explain what these are

 

The engine/tranny just kind of "float" on top of the mounts. When the car is driving and goes over bumps and such, it can cause the rearend and torque tube (one unit remember) to shove the engine/tranny back and forth. These rods run fron the center crossmember into the back of the block. This secures it so the engine/tranny can't move front or back. A lot of guys leave these out, and that can cause problems down the road.

 

That chewed up driveshaft is going to give you troubles.
I would not use it.
Those splines are the "slip yoke" of a torque tube
and it's all ate up where the u-joint rides 99% of the time.

 

Eric,
I'm not arguing with you, but after I cleaned up that splined end I slipped a U joint on it and it is very tight...no free-play. U-joint rides on the entire shaft down to the groove for the retaining ring right, not just the rusty area. I mean I don't wanna run a rusty piece of shit, just askin.

I do have the front part of a 36 driveline that I thought about welding on...but man that suckers gotta be exactly dead one strait so I'll have to make up some jig or something. Same thing with the rear, too. Any suggestions? Local driveline shops say they have no way to do it. Sound BS to me.

 

The engine/tranny just kind of "float" on top of the mounts. When the car is driving and goes over bumps and such, it can cause the rearend and torque tube (one unit remember) to shove the engine/tranny back and forth. These rods run fron the center crossmember into the back of the block. This secures it so the engine/tranny can't move front or back. A lot of guys leave these out, and that can cause problems down the road.

oh ok gottcha..

 

Why did they say they can't do it? that is BS!

 

That one had to be hauled to pacific, cause it was such a piece of shit

 

Mmm, Pacific wouldn't take it, so Dan bought it

 

No way to chuck it up. I mentioned that I had some splined shafts and couplers to use in their chuck but they said they just couldn't so it. I guess they just hate money...

 

So just have Dan weld it up under water!?

 

OK, think I have my driveline figured out. Eric (Vaphead), I decided not to cheat myself and go with a better front splined shaft. I did have a nice 35/36 driveshaftshaft that the spines look great, so I cut it off. They have an inner sleeve that goes inside the tube, lining it up and then welded. I ground down the orriginal weld and removed the outer driveline tube. It was too big to go into the 33/34 driveshaft, so had my friend Tim chuck it in a lathe and turn it down to a press-fit spec. Turned out really good.
For the rear, I got a 4" piece of 1 3/4" stock. That is the OD of the 33/34 driveline. Tim then turned down a section of the OD to a press fit spec inside the tube, then bored a hole through the other end so that the 6 spline coupler is a press fit. Now I gotta find a shop or whatever that can chuck it up and make sure it is true before it is welded.

Alot of work, but now I have a driveline cut to fit and splined correct!!


New shaft



1 3/4" stock and 6 spline coupler

 

you make it look so easy.....keep it up

 

Give Eric a call at:
Drive Lines Inc
5050 E Seltice Way, Post Falls, ID 83854
(208) 773-3301

Hopefully he can help you out.

 

Thanks Billy! I'll give him a shout tommorrow. I got your $$50.00 by the way...

 

Chris, what are you going to do about the hydraulic brakes on the rear?
I would guess that the same problems with putting them on an A rear will arise, as far as interference with the spring perches.
Are they are in far enough to clear with how you welded the perch pieces inboard?

 

I like it alot!! Highboy style has just grown on my so much..i don't even know if i would bother heating a spring, i think you ride height looks a-ok. Super kool ride keep up the hard work man its paying off... ice cold hands or not!

Timmy Z

 

They are in far enough now that the lines will clear. The upper shock ball on the hangers will be cut off, too...and that will also give more clearance.

 

The past couple days I have been helping a friend of mine rearrange and remodel his shop. He's an old guy, and has TONS of early V8 stuff. We have been knocking down walls and going to build new walls next week. He rebuilds rear ends and trannys, so is a good guy to know. For my help so far he gave me this 39 tranny. I was so stoked!!! It's one he went through, some of the gears have some very minor pitting but it'll be great in this ol wagon. It didn't have a tower, but I had a couple spares so I will now have a gen-u-ine 39 tranny in the roadster!

 

Chris great thread,keep up the great work.
and thanks again for the info(help)
Brian

 

Tranny looks good Chris,nice Christmas present.I'll probably get socks and underpants,as usual!LOL
Mark

 

Look at you with your '39 Tranny!!! That's really cool that guy gave it to you. Helping other fellers out goes a long way. Can't wait to see this thing in the roadster, they have such a sexy shift profile.

Are you going to clean it up and paint it or are you keeping it in your usual rat rod form??? I'm just sayin'....

 

Ah, the whole chassis will be done, I just picked up the paint for it today...but the body will still be the same shitty mess it is for a while. I do loves me a good rat rod. Who needs an asshole with a friend like you

 

Ok, got a lot done today! I started by removing the body off the chassis. I cut out a section on the front and back of the stock center crossmember for torque tube clearance. It still needs cleaned up and a lip welded on for support. Then I made the torque tube. I had about the rear 8" off a 1937-1948 torque tube...so got out the 33/34 I had to torch at the junkyard and figured I'd see what I can do. Come to find out, the 33/34 tappers all the way forward, and as luck would have it were I needed to cut it was slightly smaller OD then the ID of the 37-48 hunk. With a little grinder work I was able to tap it in to the right length. Worked out pretty good!
After that task I fooled around with the engine anti-chatter rods (found a complete set by the way). They should be strait, any bends will cause a point which may strech. These rods wind up sitting right on top of the center crossmember, so I may make a tab that sticks up that these will bolt to as they will not be in the way of anything...havn't figured that out yet. Also came up with a 32-33 oil filler neck. It's about 3 time longer then a regular one...may work better for breather cap issues with the firewall.
Also got about half the crossmember boxing plates welded in. I am no pro welded, thats for sure so I was happy with how the welds look.

Thats it for now!

 

looking really good chris, taking me down memory lane with my first av8 build...

 

Chris,It looks GREAT!

Nick.

 

Pretty sweet stuff man

 

Great progress,Chris.And have a great Christmas!
Mark

 

great ..work as usuall..

 

i love how your body is just standing straight up. thats hilarious for some reason. anyways looks great. What method do you use to weld?

 

I don't have any room in my shop...it's got to much shit in it The funny part is probably seeing me remove and stand up the body by myself!!! The body sits nice on it's nose anyways
I am using a MIG to weld. I REALLY want to get a tig and learn on it!