Model A roadster is a roller *updated 12/10/09*

LOL! Thats a junk spare off my F-250...don't worry, it's going to scrap soon. I didn't want to set it outside, it'd probably get stolen and thats worth some roadster parts in scrap

 

very cool? congrats

 

Holy shit!!! I need a drum puller like nobody's business. I have been wrestling with a '39 rear end for a couple days trying to make a puller (unsuccessful) and get the drum off. Sactown Ford has them but they are slow to ship and are expensive. Need to find an old one like that!!!

 

JJ, I have another old puller, too. It's a Proto brand, but it uses three of the wheel studs to pull on. It works well, but if the wheels studs are stipped or broke, it won't work. Or if it is wide 5 pattern it won't work. This one will work on anything, and pulls on the hub itself, not the drum...deeming it WAAAAAAAY better in my book.

 

OK, got something done AND learned something today. I have been thinking of what dash I want in this thing for a while. I am shooting for a mid 40's stripped down car with out a lot of bells and whistles. I decided that I would like to run a stock 1932 Ford dash and guages, with some old curved glass SW gauges bellow it. I didn't have an orriginal dash to butcher, so I orderd a brand new dash made to fit a 28-29 roadster. Only problem is they come blank...no hole. Jalopykid on here sold me a nice cut out oval from a dash he filled (Thanks again Brandon), and my buddy John sold me a nice stainless ring. I located some gauges and all I need is a nice orriginal engine turned face.
So, I am not much of a sheet metal guy, and didn't want to screw this up so went to a good friend of mine Bob who owns a hot rod shop called Rod Builders. I wanted to hire him to install the oval in the dash as I was to chicken to attempt it. He said "why don't I just show you how??" Worked perfect for me, he showed me some great sheet metal tricks and I pretty much did the whole thing (with his guidance) and it turned out SUPER GOOD if I don't say so myself! Thanks so much Bob!!! Set it in the car, looks perfect

 

man that is TRICK!!!

I love it. you guys have some great "eyes" for simplicity and greatness.. Must be all the rain, keeps ya inside and reading the HAMB and HOP UP lol

Sweet deal man.

 

Great job!

 

Dude that looks great!!! Congrats on learning something new and doing it well. I can't believe that our very own CHRIS bought something repopped!!!! What the fuck is the world coming to????

It's funny how you went and worked on the dash when other things should take precedence. I did the same thing last weekend. I got the dash out of my '35 and started figureing out what gauges I wanted to run if not the stock ones. I'll be cutting into my own soon and fitting them with some different ones so I might hit you up on some of that knowledge that you learned.

Again man, this thing is going to be bananas!!!!

 

sweet

 

Something like that

 

Hey, when I have an offer for help on a project I get right on it Besides, that dash and shortening the driveline are pretty much the only two things I was gonna have to "farm out"...nice to get em done and out of the way.

 

Damn! Looks like that oval went to a good home! Looks good Chris. Can't wait to see the roadster back together.

 

Thanks man, that piece totally saved me...I mean, were else are you gonna find one???
Roadster will be on the road this spring!!

 

Looks great man!! That dash rules. Keep the updates coming!!

Mike

 

Looks good Chris, but dude, you need some insulation on that garage door. I don't know how you're working in there with the weather as cold as it is.

 

I have heat, and yes I know I gotta insulate that! I also gotta finish the celing, too

 

Alright, big day for me here. I now have a roller!!!

Ok, so let me run down my "tech" on how to adapt a Model A or T spring to a later V8 rearend. This is actually not my idea, Hamber OldeBob showed this to me.

First, take a couple junk Model A rear bells, and cut the spring hanger and top too holes off (see pic below). Grind em to fit your V8 rear end, line up the top two holes with bolts, and buzz em on your rear end. Pretty easy, huh!

In this pic you will see the plain cut one on the right, with the made ground to fit on the left



Get em bolted up (I left a little gap for good penetration)





And the finished product. I have yet to whack the stock 37-40 hangers off the back, but they will be cut short and made into lower shock mounts. Also, yes I did prep both surfaces before welding (wire wheeled the paint and rust off each piece).

 

Now that I have a roller, I mocked it all up and rolled it outside...suppost to snow tommorrow, so this may be the last day in a while to do this Please note that the snow tres are mounted in the back! Nothing is really bolted down and the wheels are just snugged up so they may look a little "off"

This thing looks freakishly long like this

 

Looking good chris! Its going to be another record for quickest roadster build.

 

Chris, That is going to be one real cool roadster. You'll be a Cruisin' early in 2010 !

41 Dave

 

Great job, Chris. That's a cool trick on the rear spring mounts.

 

Sweet! Looks really good. I like the direction you're going with the mid 40's.

Can't wait to see more.

 

Looks excellent!! Nice Job Chris!!

 

Chris, you may have written it but I haven't seen, who is shortening your torque tube and drive shaft? I've priced it out through Cook's and Hot Rod Works and so fat HRW is a much better deal but I'd like to hear who you're using and what it'll cost.

 

Looking cool...

 

Nice!

 

Quick and junky, thats my motto

 

I'm going to use a 35/36 driveshaft for two reasons.
1) It is a hollow tube, so jut cut down in the center and have a driveline shop weld it and balance it.

2) they don't use that pesky center bearing in the center of the torque tube, so I don't have to mess with that.

The 35/36 pinion shaft is a 10 spine, where as the 37-up is a 6 spine, so I'm going to take the stock 37-up driveline coupler and machine the rear of the 35/36 drivline so it can slip in the rear. Then weld it up and it will be a sure fit. Make sense?

 

Yep... I got it.

 

Chris,

Thanks for the tech on the rear spring hangers. I think I am going to re-work mine now so that I can run the original A shocks. Yours seems to sit alot lower than mine in the rear as well. I used some spring hangers from Posies welded to the axle tubes that I am just not happy with.

I am also pretty curious what you are going to do to tie the wishbone into the F-1 Crossmember. I used an F-1 as well but ended up splitting my bones. I am using a 53 Merc 8BA as a motor as well.