I was given this spring and was told it is a Model A style rear that has been re-arched for a 4" drop. I just want to get some opinions before I go through all the trouble of taking the stock spring off, and make sure this will even work. It is 45 1/4" eye to eye, and 12 7/8" tall, 2" wide springs. This makes me wonder if it is to lower a Model T. And also what shackles I would have to run with the square ends. Please let me know what you guys think. Thanks, Kevin
Will the width work? It looks too wide when I set it near the banjo rearend. I've seen some guys on here using an A top spring (short one) to use with a T spring so it centers in the chassis correctly. I searched through a bunch of threads and couldn't find the answer on what width is acceptable (45.25")
I just measured a stock "T" spring, it measured 43.5", my guess is that one will be too long for proper spring stretch and shackle angles. Someone more familiar with your setup will chime in.
Just a suggestion, You could have it re-arched and add a model A top short leaf to the spring pack. If you're determined to try it yourself search the threads and have someone who's done it give you some help. Or you might.............. Measure the distance from the center line of the spring perches and height of your spring. Compare the perch dimension to your spring. I count 6 leaves on yours so it appears someone has removed some leaves. It may be that the spring pack was too weak for the car it was on. A standard T spring is around 43-44" wide and you've now got some sag making it 45-1/4" wide. Stock A 10 leaf is 38-15/16 to 39-1/8 wide and 17-5/8 to17-3/4 tall. So you are only 1-1;4 to 2 inches longer than a stock T spring that fits. Be careful with disassembly use 4 heavy clamps and some all thread rod (again, search the threads for how some guys use chain wrapping). When it's apart, find some little kid and borrow their chalk. Using the chalk lay out/trace the main spring on the neighbors driveway so your wife won't be upset about the drawing and when you're done if the neighbor complains you can always blame it on the kid with the chalk. Trace the Arch and locate the eye centers. Lay out 2 additional lines that are at 43 to 44 inches apart parallel to the center lines you made for each eye. Starting at the center of the main leaf using the press work in small increments from the center out to the ends equally left and right and on the both sides of the flat to maintain the shape. You can use the chalk to draw the lines on the spring to track where you press. Little steps make it easier to control the bend and keep the arch concentric. Keep comparing to your layout line. When the eyes are on the new centers and the shape looks right. The height will be higher than the tracing since you don't know the height when the spring you have was fitted to the old installation so you'll need to make a judgment call whether it looks too high. Maybe there is someone that can give you the approximate height of an 8 leaf spring with 2 leaves removed to use as a guide. You can eat up or release spring length manipulating the curve . Do the next leaf so it nests with the main and so on till you get to the top. Adding the model A top leaf will center the spring in the cross member and it will also need to be arched to fit. Now for the disclaimers: You may do this and the spring may be worn out and sag as soon as you put the weight of the car on it and if you use this information and there's a problem I"ll blame it on the kid with the chalk you'll bth be covered with evidence. Be careful and don't get hurt. Thread below is actually quite good for info on lowering a traditional rod. http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=36447
@tim b. What do you think of the square shaped bolts in the spring eyes? I've never seen any like them before. My stock springs have a bushing and a bolt through them. These have square pegs with threads on both sides. They appear to be pressed in.
Can't see the pictures too well on my crappy phone, but looks and sounds like 32 and up shackle studs
Look like 32-style spring hanger bolts. They're a combination metal bushing with rubber insert and solid rod with threaded ends. The square fits the 32 style shackle bars that had a square vs round hole in them. The spring/axle movement is dampened by the rubber bushing. Without the square hole and square part of the rod the motion would be transferred to just the rod and it would chafe through. They can be pushed out but if good can be kept since many suppliers still have replacement bars and perch rods. It could be a bit of a challenge to locate them though. You will need to use the same style set up on the axle as well if you keep them. Most use the 2 pc Model A style springe hangers like you have. Just some other info I missed in my original post: you need to lay out a horizontal straight line to start and then lay the spring on it centered on the spring eyes and that the re-arched spring (or new spring) will settle and seek its final height after a bit of use so it's OK if its a bit high. I'm using a Posie's 2" drop reverse eye. It was a bit high when I installed it but it has settled. We'll see where it sits with the new tires. Hope this helps. Tim
I make a 26/27 T-Spring to Model A width. Its available in the classifieds. Its a bolt in application. No shims or spacers needed. They are available here in the classifieds under "hot rod spring"
The "A" rear spring will not fit the "T" crossmember. The "T" will fit the "A" crossmember. The "T" spring will lower the rear of an "A" by about 2". Assembled "T" springs are much easier to install than the assembled "A" springs. Any automotive spring demands a lot of respect and safety is paramount. Leaf springs do settle, especially after they've been disassembled, cleaned up, wear grooves polished out and reassembled. Each leaf finds its ideal "nesting" position with the adjacent leaf of the pack while in use on the vehicle. BTW, individual leaves are not necessarily 100% symmetrical left-to-right, so label each leaf so that reassembly will end up as factory assembled. Also, removal of a leaf on that style of spring will deter proper nesting of leaves in some areas (especially in the curved zones) where the leaf was removed. I would be hesitant to alter the arc of the "T" spring when using it in an "A".
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