Anyone know what this means? looks like 9E15 stamped in and 704 on the raised "tag" It's a '55-64 GM Rear End with 3725899 stamped on the Differential...complete drum to drum every thing turns there doesn't seem to be much lash... $60.00 I'd like to figure out what year it is and possibly what gear ratio and trans combo...I know it's not a 33 posi case and I believe a 3.08 started with a B not a 9 but that's all I was able to find out
I nearly flipped my lid when I went to pick up a model A part and got to talking with the guy and he casually mentioned having the one major piece I'm missing for the body....I was on cloud nine until apparently a friend told him a brand new one is $1500. and 1/2 of that should be fair...who knows maybe it is but I cant justify it right now...oh well
That is a nice quarter but it is not a $750 quarter by a long shot. It's there but it needs patching, which takes new metal and hours of work.
What year body are you building? I'm in Ontario and I have some 30/31 Rear quarters as well as doors from a roadster I am not going to use.
ok @RICH B you win.... got incredibly lucky a fella was replacing this with something better....best part is I can pay later
Unfortunately the previous owner wants his spindles back I spent 2 hours with a torch swinging a hammer and flipping it side for side....my wrist hasn't been this sore since I was single... Is there some trick to this? I still have to get those damn '39 spindles off and this one didn't have a speck of rust on it...
cool thats a neat idea! might use it for the rear now...I have 1 T wishbone already Thanks! My body parts are mostly rough '28-9 roadster scraps I've gathered up over the years right now...This is a real low buck project due to a late in life baby arrival so I was going to use some hacked up 1/4s I have but they will require a ton of work and time to even be passable. A cowl would be easier to locate than 1/4s. I would be interested to see pics of what you have maybe we can figure out a way to get them over here Yes I agree...I can't get too carried away as much as I'd like to...sometimes patience has its rewards if not I think i'll be ok if it looks like a roadster from 20 feet away
OMG YOUR PROJECT IS SAVED! IT IS A MIRACLE! GET THOSE 39 SPINDLES! Congrats, really, that is an amazing boon for your build. Make sure there is nothing preventing that fussy kingpin from moving. Hit it with some penetrating oil and let it sit overnight and do some of the work for you. Then chain/strap it to something sturdy and put a bottle jack under it with a socket or a bolt or something to press it up and out. Give it a little heat too if it's still reluctant. You'll do just fine salvaging those 39 spindles and cleaning them up. The wheels, backing plates, and wide 5's will do you just fine too! I am very happy for you.
Did you remove the pinch bolt that holds them in place? King pins should pretty much just slide out. Maybe you are talking about the perch pins as they can be a real booger if they are rusted.
It has been said, split bones and tube axles don't play well together. Sent from my Nokia 2.3 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
when i joined this hobby in 1983, tube axles were the hot set up, but they would break the perch pins when using split bones... neither flexed, too rigid... use the split bones with I beams... hairpins or 4 bar with the tube...
It is probably the best score so far considering...but now some are poo-pooing the idea of tube axle and split bones so ya just cant win! lol wait ...there's pinch bolts? the other side came out but this side will only move up and down about an 1/8th in. that's with a torch on either side penetrating oil and a BFH I filed the end down thinking it was mushroomed but that ain't it either what do you suggest then? save the money and stick to the '39 axle? those bones have a really weird mount it is basically a bushing welded horizontal with a bolt through it ...if I change to a tie rod end and bung would that help? I might be able to find an A wishbone but usually the ball is worn right out and when you change engines you lose the mount...this is disappointing news F*@k...Ok i'll go back to the drawing board..... again What if I keep the longer bones but weld the model A wishbone end to them? that might move the mount far enough back to fit a different driveline in... would a panhard help?
No. The whole point of folks commenting on the tube vs i-beam axles situation is to *save* you grief. Listen to the guys that told you. If you absolutely have to use 'bones on a tube axle( & that one is really neat!) against any/all reasonable advise, use them as a 1-piece unit like ford did(which will work correctly), or *if* you split them , only split about 1->2" & then I'd run "johnny-joints" for the articulation. Tube axles don't twist, but I beams do. Look back at some old Pete-n-Jakes literature for more info. Also, there is a thread started by Pete Eastwood titled "Stop using cowl steering" or somesuch. Lots of good info there. Educate yourself. Not trying to be rude here, btw. Marcus...
wishbones with the ball is the best... if split, closer together the better... i drastically sectioned a '34 tranny mount to 1.5" tall... let the auto tranny clear and kept the ball...
You can use the rear forging off a Model A wishbone (worn ball can be welded and ground back round) to make a wider spread wishbone with the later arms; whether it can be done and clear your pan and trans is something you will need to determine. You could gather up four tie rods, make some batwings out of your Model A wishbone yokes, and build an early times four bar like on the kookie car. You could use the split bones, switch to some compliant urethane type ends and mount them as close together as possible. If you have the '39 axle loose; secure one end and twist the other; do the same with the tube axle and you will see. Round about forty or so years ago my friend had a T touring with a V/8 60 tube axle; it regularly snapped the heim end on the r/h wishbone; so much so he carried several for on the spot repairs. He got away with this because he had cycle wheels and no front brakes; if he had brakes on that axle the failure would have been critical.
I've been around the literature long enough that I both remember this information and forgot it at the same time...that's why it rang true I'll look into putting the model A "horseshoe" put on the longer bones since the later bones come to more of a point maybe the wider A horseshoe combined with a farther back ball location would be a reasonable compromise ... yes I used to have an old chevy truck you could kick the wheel and watch the wobble vibrate up the whole axle
[QUOTE I nearly flipped my lid when I went to pick up a model A part and got to talking with the guy and he casually mentioned having the one major piece I'm missing for the body....I was on cloud nine until apparently a friend told him a brand new one is $1500. and 1/2 of that should be fair...who knows maybe it is but I cant justify it right now...oh well[/QUOTE] You can get a new one (w/o braces-make your own) ready to bolt on from Brookville for that- $795! On occasion, slightly blemished ones pop up for a couple hundred less. https://brookvilleroadster.com/stor...r-side-roadster-quarter-panel-without-braces/ Show him that and offer $300 and maybe go to $400. Other option is to trade him some of your extra parts or labor as partial/full horse trade.
Here ya go @Retson the Racer '28-9 Roadster: pass. toeboard to firewall pass. rocker and sill plate roadster seat riser and under seat floor panel pass. subframe rail pass. rear sub rail rear trunk floor/rumble riser Driver's toeboard rocker/sill rear sub rail Driver's rear rail
'28-9 2 dr. sedan: This is the 2dr. rear subframe heavy rail ...note that it is curved while the coupe/roadster is flat Here is a chunk of roadster subframe on top of the 2 dr. the chalk indicates where the 2 dr. widens out slightly in the door area... the 2 partial brackets are the end of the roadster door (the 1/4 brace) pass.
Also @Retson the Racer here is the link to a previous thread I did on the same subject with lots of detailed pics from @Carter 's roadster subframe build: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/model-a-subframes-floor-pans.756448/
It looks pretty early to me and that hub is punched for carriage bolts so I would wager it is for a wood wheeled car.
the riveted ends remind me of Franklin tube axles, popular with the early racers. @Pete Eastwood would know i'll bet
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/chrysler-tube-axle.520103/ https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1920s-chrysler-tube-axle-lakes-modified-trog.1088648/ https://forums.aaca.org/topic/30846...-on-my-1930-dreyer-built-big-race-car-thanks/
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