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Projects Model A question

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by 87notch, Dec 17, 2013.

  1. 87notch
    Joined: Oct 31, 2008
    Posts: 81

    87notch
    Member
    from kentucky

    I absolutely love Russco's blue coupe! I am building my 30 to be similar. I plan to box the frame and run split front bones and a banjo rear. I read that he z'd the rear of his frame 3 inches to lower the rear and his frame shows below his car. My question is could I keep the frame straight and just channel the car to get it where I want it to sit. Not looking to have my tires over the quarters or anything but want it to sit more like Russco's.



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  2. chopo
    Joined: Feb 20, 2006
    Posts: 1,197

    chopo
    Member

    cut trunk floor and kickup 3 inches
     
  3. 87notch
    Joined: Oct 31, 2008
    Posts: 81

    87notch
    Member
    from kentucky

    If I step it up and channel it will it not make the spring really high in the trunk floor?


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  4. BobF
    Joined: Dec 30, 2004
    Posts: 230

    BobF
    Member
    from Poway, CA

    The Model A frame ends at the center of the rear wheel opening, and the high arch rear spring inside the arched rear cross member already sticks up into the trunk. If you "Z" it the spring/crossmember will indeed be higher up in the trunk area. If you channel the whole body everything is up into the interior which isn't too bad if you're under six feet tall, but if you chop the top also it gets real tiny in there.
     

  5. mike bowling
    Joined: Jan 1, 2013
    Posts: 3,506

    mike bowling
    Member

    I cut my frame at a 45* angle and put the long point of the back end even with the short point of the front end, then welded and " plated" the whole thing.This keeps the wheelbase at stock length.This is going in a "31 A coupe. I also made my own spring set-up with a low arch spring that still leaves 4" of travel.This put the back end down about 4 ". I put in a 4" drop front axle with 24" dia. tires / 29" dia tires in back.This brings the whole car down and creates a "rake" at the same time.I did have to modify the subframe in the back end, but it wasn't too bad a job (4 1/2 " angle grinder with a thin kerf disk).I still have to finish the project, and the road will tell how things went, but I think it'll work fine; if not , I'll do it again.It's a learning process, but it's interesting figuring it out. Good Luck! Mike from Mass. :cool:
     

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    Last edited: Dec 17, 2013
  6. Russco
    Joined: Nov 27, 2005
    Posts: 4,132

    Russco
    Member
    from Central IL

    I am flattered you like my coupe so much, its not really that big of a hump in the floor. I used the Hump from a sedan on the trunk floor of the coupe. I'll try to find a picture of the hump/trunk floor.
     
  7. RUSSCO- your coupe is my desktop image at work. you hit the nail on the head with that one. I look at it everyday. Do you have any pics of your car with a 30 or 31 radiator shell on it.
     
  8. hilltopgaragede
    Joined: Apr 8, 2010
    Posts: 159

    hilltopgaragede
    Member
    from Delaware

    And note the beauty of that quick change in Russco's ride like we discussed elsewhere!
     
  9. Russco
    Joined: Nov 27, 2005
    Posts: 4,132

    Russco
    Member
    from Central IL

    Thanks, again I'm flattered. I got lucky that it turned out as nice as it did.
    I don't have any pics with the "A" grille because it only had the 32 grille while I had it.

    Notch, I found a couple pictures of the subframe modification and frame step, and one of the trunk floor finished, but its carpeted but you can get the idea.
     

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  10. A Rodder
    Joined: Jul 13, 2008
    Posts: 2,477

    A Rodder
    Member

    Russco's coupe is / was an inspiration for many of us here, myself included.

    The way I dealt with getting the rear low was somewhat unconventional but really effective and fairly easy and totally reversible.

    I took the rear spring out and cut the top of the crossmember out and re-arched it upward 2".
    Essentially channeling the rear of the car over the spring 2". This took very little time, only required longer U bolts, and to the removable sheetmetal panel in the trunk I just welded in a little box hump type deal.
    I did very very minor modification to the rumble seat spring structure for it to fit.

    My reasoning was I knew later I would move the body to a deuce frame and didn't want to cobble up the subrails if it wasn't necessary.
     
  11. A Rodder
    Joined: Jul 13, 2008
    Posts: 2,477

    A Rodder
    Member

    That, along with a T spring and 750 rears gives this tire to wheel well height.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  12. Russco
    Joined: Nov 27, 2005
    Posts: 4,132

    Russco
    Member
    from Central IL

    That's Ingenious!
     
  13. bgaro
    Joined: Sep 3, 2010
    Posts: 1,189

    bgaro
    Member

    channel it, if you have no interest in comfort.
     
  14. ABONES
    Joined: Dec 3, 2004
    Posts: 992

    ABONES
    Member

    Another option is to use a spring behind rearend. Lenghten the frame 7 and a half inches use the spring behind rear and get pretty much the same results. Look on my profile page and you'll see a pic of my coupe.
     
  15. A Rodder
    Joined: Jul 13, 2008
    Posts: 2,477

    A Rodder
    Member

    Thanks Russco, I just wanted minimal invasive surgery :)
     
  16. Olderchild
    Joined: Nov 21, 2012
    Posts: 476

    Olderchild
    Member
    from Ohio

    Thanks A Rodder, i often wondered why it couldn't have been done that way
     
  17. 87notch
    Joined: Oct 31, 2008
    Posts: 81

    87notch
    Member
    from kentucky

    Thanks for the info and the pics. Gives me something to think on.


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  18. hilltopgaragede
    Joined: Apr 8, 2010
    Posts: 159

    hilltopgaragede
    Member
    from Delaware

    I lowered the rear of my A by, using a 37' spring which has much less arch and removing a combination of short and long leaves until it was as low as possible but did not bottom out. Result is same ride height as "A Rodder", but stock uncut trunk. Add a contoured block above the spring to make up the arch difference and you can use the stock u-bolts.

    Everything can be put back the way it was if you change your mind later.

    You can also lower it a good bit just by removing leaves from the A spring. Stock spring is way too stiff for modern roads anyhow.
     
  19. Model A Gomez
    Joined: Aug 26, 2006
    Posts: 1,344

    Model A Gomez
    Member

    I z'd the frame on my Model A the width of the frame, about 3" and still leaves you a usable trunk. This is the second Model A I have done this way, Tardel Book "How to build a V8 A " is a good reference.
     

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  20. Bull
    Joined: Mar 17, 2006
    Posts: 2,285

    Bull
    Member

    Spring behind on my A Tudor:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  21. ydopen
    Joined: Mar 14, 2010
    Posts: 200

    ydopen
    Member

    I followed the Tardel-Bishop book. Z'd rear frame with 4" drop in front. I hesitated to cut the frame,but it was easy once I started.

    John
     

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  22. Fenders
    Joined: Sep 8, 2007
    Posts: 3,922

    Fenders
    Member

    A ROD, what did you make the cuts with ... whiz wheel?
     
  23. OoltewahSpeedShop
    Joined: Oct 18, 2007
    Posts: 3,103

    OoltewahSpeedShop
    Member

    Here's another take on the spring behind setup. I'm using this on the '31 truck I'm building. Should drop it about the same as the Tardel Z. It'll get a C-notch over the tubes then fully boxed.
     

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  24. A Rodder
    Joined: Jul 13, 2008
    Posts: 2,477

    A Rodder
    Member

    High speed cut off wheel, or what I call a hot saw.
    Makes easy controlled cuts.
     
  25. striper
    Joined: Mar 22, 2005
    Posts: 4,498

    striper
    Member

    Nice tires. What are they?
     
  26. OoltewahSpeedShop
    Joined: Oct 18, 2007
    Posts: 3,103

    OoltewahSpeedShop
    Member

    Just some cheapo 7.50x16 bias ply truck tires that I grooved up to look like old dirt trackers.
     
  27. hotrodderhaag
    Joined: Jan 22, 2007
    Posts: 2,117

    hotrodderhaag
    Member

     

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