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Projects Model A pickup, my first build thread

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by F-6Garagerat, Sep 11, 2010.

  1. OFT
    Joined: Jun 1, 2005
    Posts: 499

    OFT
    Member

    How much compressed air pressure are you using? Could there be a blockage in line or gauge that is not allowing oil to show pressure but will do so with compressed air
     
  2. mista
    Joined: Nov 24, 2015
    Posts: 130

    mista
    Member
    from Finland

    I used air only on the gauge it self when it was in my hand. Not installed.
     
  3. OFT
    Joined: Jun 1, 2005
    Posts: 499

    OFT
    Member

    Is there a way to check line? Perhaps disconnect it at motor, check line and gauge, at same time?
    Don't remember what pressure is normal, is pressure reading to low for gauge?
     
  4. mista
    Joined: Nov 24, 2015
    Posts: 130

    mista
    Member
    from Finland

    I started the car today and let it run aroun 30-60sec but still no readings at the gauge. Took the intake off to check the pressure valve but nothing big up there also.. Any suggestions?

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  5. mista
    Joined: Nov 24, 2015
    Posts: 130

    mista
    Member
    from Finland

    Took the relief valve apart, cleaned it well, made a 1,2mm shim with lathe and assembled all back together. Took the gauge off and poured oil into the hole.. alot.. :D Gauge back started and VOILA.. I have now something like 7psi on idle and as soon as i rev the engine it goes to 30psi and littlebit over.. I guess that is enough. I should still buy a new oilpump for the future.
     
    rjones35 likes this.
  6. OFT
    Joined: Jun 1, 2005
    Posts: 499

    OFT
    Member

    Way to go figuring out what was going on.:)
     
  7. Congratulations! I absolutely hate oil pressure problems. Rebuilt a '64 Jag E-type, completely balanced and blueprinted, but it kept trashing cams and lifters because the oil wasn't getting to the head. Never figured it out, and finally sold it, giving the buyer full notice of the dilemma. Just hate those oil pressure mysteries.
     
    mista likes this.
  8. mista
    Joined: Nov 24, 2015
    Posts: 130

    mista
    Member
    from Finland

    Thanks for the support guys. Next problem. This engine does not have drain plugs for coolant installed. On the side of the block next to the waterpumps.. What is the thread on those? Tryed to search here and google but no help..

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  9. mista
    Joined: Nov 24, 2015
    Posts: 130

    mista
    Member
    from Finland

    You always learn something new. I used wrong words when searching for that plug.. Since they did not have plugs but a pet cocks.. As soon as i typed pet cock i found out it was 1/4" NPT.. Tapped them clean and there it is. Ready for coolant.
     
  10. mista
    Joined: Nov 24, 2015
    Posts: 130

    mista
    Member
    from Finland

    Is this fucking normal... Fluids coning out of exhaust manifold bolt hole and the head stud in the middle? Exhaust bolt on one side. Head studs on both.

    Fuck..

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  11. mista
    Joined: Nov 24, 2015
    Posts: 130

    mista
    Member
    from Finland

    Does that particular headstud go to the waterline in the block? On both sides..
     
  12. trad27
    Joined: Apr 22, 2009
    Posts: 1,109

    trad27
    Member

    Couldn't tell you about the exhaust hole but I've done flatheads and have had that same problem with head studs, I just back it off and dry it good and just a thin dap of silicone on the bottom of the nut re torque and clean. Love your build, I've been silently fallowing since the beginning.
     
    osage orange likes this.
  13. What trad27 says. My '29 A coupe had one of those surprises back in the day. Get it dry, seal the bottom of the bolt or stud, then remember not to take out that one unless you've got a pan underneath to catch the fluid.
     
  14. mista
    Joined: Nov 24, 2015
    Posts: 130

    mista
    Member
    from Finland

    Thanks guys. Nice to hear it is a common problem. I've read that it is common place to crack on the bock between waterline and this particular headstud. So i guess i just seal it and we are good to go. And the same thing for that exhaust header stud. I guess i will just glue stud in the hole and hope it keeps fluids in.
     
    Last edited: Jun 2, 2017
  15. mista
    Joined: Nov 24, 2015
    Posts: 130

    mista
    Member
    from Finland

    Testdrive.



    Glued everything together with Kent sili-gasket 2. Brakes are shit. :)
     
    117harv and OFT like this.
  16. safari-wagon
    Joined: Jan 12, 2008
    Posts: 1,457

    safari-wagon
    Member

    Congrats.
    Sometimes, I have to gravity bleed these brakes to get them to work best for me.

    Singlefinger Speed Shop,
    still lurking around Detroit
     
  17. mista
    Joined: Nov 24, 2015
    Posts: 130

    mista
    Member
    from Finland

    Today i will go to Dynotune the car.. Lets see what is left of the engine.
    And now many many more of the headstuds are leaking.. I glued only the two that leaked at the first time but now about ten more leaks.. I have to take them all out and glue them :) Or i'll just try to toque the heads down one more time because of the copper headgaskets.

    Also became an Alliance member today. Just to support such a great community.
     
    117harv likes this.
  18. mista
    Joined: Nov 24, 2015
    Posts: 130

    mista
    Member
    from Finland

    Got to ride this on the street today.. What is that terrible knocking sound? Coming from the engine i guess.

     
  19. That's not right! You've got to find the cause before firing this up again. I wish I had better advice, but something's really a problem and not going away until you find it and fix it.
     
    OFT likes this.
  20. mista
    Joined: Nov 24, 2015
    Posts: 130

    mista
    Member
    from Finland

    That loud metallic sound comes from the cab doors. Sounds bad but not a problem but that knocking sound from the behind is coming from an engine or a transimmion. Did not have any time to investigate what was it but i have been suggested that it could be a pressure plate or pressure relief bearing at the gearbox.. Or some Valve is stuck etc.. Maybe even timing gear has something wrong with it.

    I guess i'll start it one more time and check the toploader first and listen for the noice with some rubber hose or screwdriver to locate it better.
     
    OFT likes this.
  21. mista
    Joined: Nov 24, 2015
    Posts: 130

    mista
    Member
    from Finland

    Sounds like it would come from the cylinder nr2.. Valve or something?
     
  22. mista
    Joined: Nov 24, 2015
    Posts: 130

    mista
    Member
    from Finland

    There is something wrong with this setup i guess.. How in the hell did they put that type of bolt to that pulley? Or more relevant how in the hell will i take it off..
     

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  23. OFT
    Joined: Jun 1, 2005
    Posts: 499

    OFT
    Member

    Looks to me like a hand crank "adapter" for stock type banger. Looks like two pulley's welded at seam line of pulleys. A front and back perhaps. No idea how to take off. Have you checked for a "how to" on banger motors?
     
  24. woodbutcher
    Joined: Apr 25, 2012
    Posts: 3,119

    woodbutcher
    Member

    :eek: Looks like the best way to get to the bolt will be to cut with a hacksaw or grind the weld away, and then you will most likely be able to access the bolt when you remove the hand crank adapter.
    Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
    Leo
     
  25. mista
    Joined: Nov 24, 2015
    Posts: 130

    mista
    Member
    from Finland

    Got it out pretty easy after scrathing my head and checking the facebook :) A chisel and a hammer. Few good hits on the chisel and the got it open..
     
  26. safari-wagon
    Joined: Jan 12, 2008
    Posts: 1,457

    safari-wagon
    Member

    Hold on kidz!
    That hand crank adapter IS the bolt that holds the pulley on!
    Get a manual, it helps.

    [​IMG]

    Singlefinger Speed Shop,
    still lurking around Detroit
     
  27. mista
    Joined: Nov 24, 2015
    Posts: 130

    mista
    Member
    from Finland

    I know it's a bolt and i needed to get it off since i had to take the pulley off. It's wrong pulley for that type of bolt.

    I modified that pulley. Shortened the shaft so that the bolt can be opened with normal tool onstead of chisel and a hammer. Also cut the welds from the pulley and straigtened it in a lathe with bearing tool. The pulley was goin 8 when spinning :) It was a mess and the belt was almost gone after 20min of running the engine. Now it's straight.

    Still not sure of that knocking sound.. I guess one std piston in a oversize bore can do that also..

    [​IMG]
     
  28. mista
    Joined: Nov 24, 2015
    Posts: 130

    mista
    Member
    from Finland

    [​IMG]

    Put everything back together. Glued every stud with Kent and sprayed a coat of copper glue on the gaskets. Fingers crossed that it won't leak..

    The noise is still unknown. Maybe it's the valve clearance, maybe it's the one std piston in an overbored hole.. Maybe. I did not take it all apart to see the bearings. Let's see what happens.

    Sent from my G3121 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    brEad likes this.
  29. mista
    Joined: Nov 24, 2015
    Posts: 130

    mista
    Member
    from Finland

    50mph..



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    First 75 miles trip to Pistons Rumble. The engine is shit. Coming back home it didn't want to start after small break even with jumper cables. Cars battery was ok.

    The knock coming from the engine is like hitting jt with the hammer. So i guess the bearings are finnished and it did not have enough force to start it. Seizing.. We push started it and i drove it home.

    The radiator spits water all the time and the pressure in upper hoses is huge.

    Well.. I made it. Just don't know how long it will work..

    Sent from my G3121 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    Last edited: Jul 17, 2017
    AndersF likes this.
  30. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 3,113

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    memory says there was a tiny pypass somewhere in the stock oil filter system, needed to be blocked or bypassed if you don't use the ford filter ?
     

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